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4l80 ?

hookedup50 said:
One more question.... Does the shifter linkage just pop off with a small pry bar without ruining it? Im pretty old school and on my Chrysler TF tranny you would slide the outer casing back to release it from the ball. This has those plastic tabs that remind me of that brakake light switch that gave me fits in the cab.
Click to expand...
If it is the cable shift there is a release at the end of the cable, it will then just basically fall off.
 
I got it off after I unfroze it. The plugs are an issue as well. Sometimes I hate weather oak connectors. Stuck pins on one of them
 
Whatever someone used on the 6 pin weather pak connector, became an adhesive. I can't believe it took so long to remove it without breaking it. I hate auto spell on phones, by the way. ......oak
 
I think they are glued in! Ive had to just unbolt the switch and let it hang from the harness on several.
 
I considered it, but the tcase plugs were sticking from corrosion and figured it was the same issue. My Colorado has terrible corrosion issues on the whole drive train harness, I've all but given up on it being 4wd.
 
Yep, just pops off. Beware though as it's a plastic collar that holds it on, and when you remove them the collar sometimes breaks. I had to repalce my cable because the collar inside the cable end crumbled when I took it loose.
 
I'm wrapping up this project which fought me with every bolt/plug and you name it. Hopefully this is the last problem I have, and someone can answer this. The black shift module on the tranny that ran a 6.0, 2001 gasser. are the pins the same as the one off my 97 tranny. I took pictures of the pins on each, and they appear to be the same, but wont plug in. Should I just swap out the modules and be done with it?
 
Same switches on both. GM used a grease that hardens to like a glue over time on those plugs, and my bet is that is what is holding you up. You can swap them, but you have to make sure and deburr the shafts before you remove or install them.
 
Thank you Ferm, that's what I thought, just making sure I'm not wasting my time. The pins are not aligned. I can see which pins are from the marks in the dielectric grease. If I get this done, I can drive my truck.
 
I messed with the plugs today and it's not bent pins, it the old grease turned into glue like you said. Have you any thoughts as to softening the goo in the plug? WD40 worked better than PB. I'm thinking careful use of heat.
 
Heat seems to be what most turn to. I've been lucky and been able to wcrape enough off of the plugs to get them back together.
 
Thanks for all your help Ferm! It's done and shifts nicely. I flushed the hell out of the cooling system till it ran clear. Do you recommend dropping the pan and changing the filter again? Also, isopropyl alcohol softened the plugs enough to get the plugs on with less effort. The plugs probably sucked up more time than anything else on this project.
 
It won't hurt anything to change the filter again, but I would put some miles on it 1st before dropping the pan, thwn you can get an idea if anything is wearing improperly.
 
Another question, where is the reverse switch on this truck? That was the other issue with failed inspection. Bulbs are good.
 
It's the black switch mounted to the side of the trans to the shift shaft(the one you had the trouble getting the plugs back into).
 
I finally got carcode running checked the des code. P0717 turbine input shaft speed sensor A no signal received from power train control module. Ant input? Thanks
 
Also, would it cause no reverse lights? Or is that in the steering column?
 
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