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4 Door Tahoe project

I used a toggle switch,there is a relay inside the actuator. At first I was confused and fried the original one. On my 97 I just grounded one of the wires at the 4x4 switch,but that truck originally had push button 4x4. On the Tahoe I connected the brown wire to key on positive,black to ground,and blue to toggle switch, key on positive . When the blue wire gets 12 volt positive it engages the front axle,disconnect the current and it will disengage. It works perfectly. Not sure what the other plug on the front differential is for,I guess for a light ?
 
I got the aluminum gas radiator in,and the factory vortec shroud. I used a 6 blade x 17 inch flex fan. I also made a home made coolant crossover,no thermostat. The factory 350 lower rad hose fit,but had to stretch it on the water pump. The by pass is also blocked. The oil cooler is not hooked up yet. I had it running for 20 min to 1/2 an hour. The coolant would not go past 160 degrees. But the oil quickly whent to 180 and creeped slowly to 200 degrees,so I decided that was hot enough ,and shut it down. Oil pressure never went below 70 psi,and pegs as soon as you give it throttle. The exhaust don't sound quit right,not much cackle,the turbo boosted just barely when free reving the engine. It seems to have a fair amount of blowby also,but not ecsesive. I think having 8 psi in the return line is retarding the timing alot. I drained the oil into a clean bucket and checked it for dirt,cut the filter and checked that too. There was some aluminum,but I think it will be better,the next time. I will hook up the oil cooler to the rad before I start it again,and change oil at least one more time before driving it.
 
I finally got the oil cooler and remote filters all hooked up. I used 1/2 inch 3500 psi hydraulic hose. I put in 8 quarts of oil and there is still non on the dip stick,still dont know how much my big oil pan holds. With my new battery it started without the glows. It seemed to clatter too much,so I backed the fuel pressure down to 10 psi. If I retard the timing by pulling out on the advance arm,it gets quiet but does not shake,or smoke white. High compression makes it run better I think ? I had it running for about 45 min,and the coolant was 120 degrees,the oil was around 130 after the cooler,top of the oil pan was 160,and the bottom was 130 degrees. The in radiator oil cooler cools it 40 degrees from the last run with no cooler. It will need a coolant thermostat after all.
 
10 PSI is way too much fuel pressure.

Back the delivery pressure down to about 4 PSI max.

The high pressure is causing the advance to work when it should not.

Missy
 
My fuel line is 3/8 inch going to the ip pump,then a return style regulator with 5/16 return line. The fuel pump has so much volume,that the pressure won't go below 10,since there is already 8 psi from restriction. To make it work right I will have to run a 3/8 or 1/2 inch return to the fill neck. A dead head system would have been easier,but I might experiment with very high lift pump pressures later.
 
We got the brakes bled. I used DOT 5. The engine holds 15 qts of oil. Once the trany wiring and shifter are done it should run and drive. I also discovered if the injector lines rub the valve covers it sounds like valve tap.
 
Got the ratchet shifter hooked up ,and the trany wiring done except the torque converter switch. We got 18 psi boost while riding the brakes in overdrive. It is still on jack stands,on the road I expect to see 30 psi.
 
She runs and drives ! :D We drove it about 1 mile with no hood on ,it seemed like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Turns out there wasn't enough fuel in the tank. :rolleyes5: Also the trany doesn't hold back,the engine just returns to idle whenever I let off of the throttle,and sounds like it shut off but didn't. Is this normal for a diesel 4L80- E ? This really bugs me ,I will do whatever it takes to get rid of this issue .
 
Thats normal, my 95 6.5 4l80 backs way off on RPM when I let out on the throttle. I am sure there is a way to have engine braking but not sure what the right way to do it is.

I am very interested in your manual 4l80 and how it performs, staying tuned in!
 
tanman_2006 said:
.............I am very interested in your manual 4l80 and how it performs, staying tuned in!
Click to expand...
did i miss something? are you putting a manual valve body in the trans? always heard they shift harsh but have never driven one. i thought about doing this myself.
 
I missed the manual valve body too.
I do have my Chevelle set up with a TransGo manual kit. IMO its OK for a toy, but would not recomend it in a daily driver. Mine shifts smooth. I think (its been to long) the trans stays in gear and will engine brake with the TranGo kit. If you forget to down shift and then go to take off from a light you will still be in the gear you left it in.
 
Burning oil said:
.............Chevelle set up with a TransGo manual kit. IMO its OK for a toy, but would not recomend it in a daily driver. Mine shifts smooth..........................
Click to expand...
seems to be the way to overcome the computer/compatibility issue. is it just a pain to remember/shift or will the shifter be too low in a truck? how much was the kit and did you put it in yourself. do you still have it, can i give it a go when i come over, sometime soon?
 
I beleive the kit was $280?. Its a nice kit. I did install it. Had I to do it again I would buy the OptiShift. It will be a long time before I dig the Chevelle out of the shop. Its buried behind everything.
 
I finally got exhaust on it and a hood ,and test drove some more. The tranny does hold back, at higher speeds. It is more noticeable with the torque converter locked. This thing has 3.42 gears,I don't like them, they seem to high. The converter stalls to much also. I also noticed the head gaskets are leaking already, it bubbles in the overflow. I should have gotten the heads planed I guess. The only thing to do is put in some Victor Reinze gaskets and flip the fire rings. Think I could just re torque the heads ?
 
6.2 turbo said:
I finally got exhaust on it and a hood ,and test drove some more. The tranny does hold back, at higher speeds. It is more noticeable with the torque converter locked. This thing has 3.42 gears,I don't like them, they seem to high. The converter stalls to much also. I also noticed the head gaskets are leaking already, it bubbles in the overflow. I should have gotten the heads planed I guess. The only thing to do is put in some Victor Reinze gaskets and flip the fire rings. Think I could just re torque the heads ?
Click to expand...
did you use head studs or bolts? your fire rings are the ones that come in the kit with the tool, or did you use something different? we bought the isky tool this spring, and are looking forward to trying it.... i think you could probably re-tourqe the heads... did you use your copper gaskets on it?
 
I used copper gaskets,and .040 stainless wire. I used old head bolts,and torqued to 135 ft lbs. It only bubbles if I drive it,and build boost,no gauge installed yet.
 
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