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3.8 liter, debris guard behind harmonic balancer.

MrMarty51

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Miles City, Montana
This is on that 1991 Oldsmobile Royal 88 with the 3800 engine. I am guessing that stands for 3.8.
Anyhow, got the H-Balancer removed and behind that, in order to get the CPS removed, this debris shield needs to come off.
It has three stud affairs with knobs on on the ends. Attaching the shield to them studs is a sort of a barrel clip with I think three fingers against the knob.
Has anyone had any experience with these ?
I dont want to just go prying on them and bust the shield so any hint on such a device would be greatly appreciated.
I didnt know that this vehicle is not a W body. I joined this w-body forum and received one reply.
That person tried telling me that the DTC 41 is for the TPS and that my car is not a W body. He apparently has never worked on one of these because he didnt hint on how to get that shield removed.
I replied that I will kindly back out of their forum.
I have spent several hours looking for the answer but to no avail. Tried the changing CPS and removing debris shield behind HB and all anyone wants to talk about is removing the HB and no farther.
The shield. No, I do not want to bust this piece trying to force it. 🤷‍♂️😹😹😹
IMG_8576.jpeg
 
I googled this - seems to just pop off.

Oh My.
I searched youtube videos and the ones I watched didnt get far enough to show how to remove that shield.
I did try pulling on it but it seemed fairly well stuck on there and I sure didnt want to break it by prying on it with some sort of a prying device.
The Haynes book doesnt even mention this shield.
Thank You so much glagulator.
 
Gotta be careful with those Haynes manuals. When something sounds wrong, double check. Yesterday a hummer owner who got his used was swapping his glow plugs for his first time-(I don’t think he has put 10,000 miles on it yet). He will do a write up for everyone when he is finished…
But whoever worked on this rig seems to have used great force to install the old ones. 6 are now replaced, 2 are not coming out.

I told him thread chaser and although I have only bothered to use a torque wrench installing glow plugs twice ever (I usually just go “snug”) in his case I would definitely use a torque wrench. He asked the torque value and I don’t know it.
Google spit out this thread from DP
Where the person asking what is the proper torque says his Haynes manual says glow plugs are 125 ft lbs. Thank goodness the feller named “Pillow” had the smarts to ask because apparently whoever worked on this hummer before the current owner bought it- must have used that manual and tried for the ridiculous torque. My manual is not accessible still so I won’t say if the DP answer is right or wrong but sure sounds a lot more accurate at 1/10th the value.
Just for entertainment (like horror movie style) a picture of one of the removed plugs:




IMG_9454.jpeg

So, Just be careful when a manual has anything to make you second guess it- always do a bit more research.

Oh, Marty- yes the 3800cc is the same as 3.8 liter. There is 1000 cubic centimeters in one liter. Like when GM made the 6.5 diesel engine it is 6.5 liters. When GEP started making the optimizers, they called it the 6500- they did it for a legal distinction, so technically there is no 6.5 liter optimizers or p400, they are all 6500 cc optimizers. Like saying someone is 72” tall instead of 6’.
 
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Yup, on Haynes manuals.
I have two pages of torque value charts. If a given torque seems wrong I get out those old KAR torque charts.
The charts gives the different size and grades of bolts, also lube or dry threads. A lot of difference between those two.
For the truck apps, I use the Chiltons book. It is much more detailed and accurate than the same in the haynes book. Closer to the factory book.
 
Gotta be careful with those Haynes manuals. When something sounds wrong, double check. Yesterday a hummer owner who got his used was swapping his glow plugs for his first time-(I don’t think he has put 10,000 miles on it yet). He will do a write up for everyone when he is finished…
But whoever worked on this rig seems to have used great force to install the old ones. 6 are now replaced, 2 are not coming out.

I told him thread chaser and although I have only bothered to use a torque wrench installing glow plugs twice ever (I usually just go “snug”) in his case I would definitely use a torque wrench. He asked the torque value and I don’t know it.
Google spit out this thread from DP
Where the person asking what is the proper torque says his Haynes manual says glow plugs are 125 ft lbs. Thank goodness the feller named “Pillow” had the smarts to ask because apparently whoever worked on this hummer before the current owner bought it- must have used that manual and tried for the ridiculous torque. My manual is not accessible still so I won’t say if the DP answer is right or wrong but sure sounds a lot more accurate at 1/10th the value.
Just for entertainment (like horror movie style) a picture of one of the removed plugs:




View attachment 85626

So, Just be careful when a manual has anything to make you second guess it- always do a bit more research.

Oh, Marty- yes the 3800cc is the same as 3.8 liter. There is 1000 cubic centimeters in one liter. Like when GM made the 6.5 diesel engine it is 6.5 liters. When GEP started making the optimizers, they called it the 6500- they did it for a legal distinction, so technically there is no 6.5 liter optimizers or p400, they are all 6500 cc optimizers. Like saying someone is 72” tall instead of 6’.
Maybe plug in the block heater for a couple hours before trying again. Seems to work better starting with a cold motor.

Maybe give the glow plugs a shot of something cold.

I'm sure he's been dousing them with panther piss already
 
Eddie Jones says rugby fans are frustrated by fussy officiating and stop-start games which he believes is having a negative effect on crowd behaviour. The Australia head coach has been booed repeatedly at the World Cup when his face appears on the big screen and he is concerned that rugby’s values of fairness and tolerance are being eroded.
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This has not been an easy tournament for Jones, whose side must wait until this weekend for their pool qualification fate to be decided. Disappointing defeats by Fiji and Wales mean Australia will likely fail to make the knockout stages for the first time but Jones says the sport’s authorities also need to consider the bigger picture.

Wallabies head coach Eddie Jones is relying on Portugal beating Fiji to salvage Australia’s disastrous Rugby World Cup campaign.
Clock ticks with Eddie Jones and Wallabies in Rugby World Cup purgatory
Read more
“The way the game is being refereed is causing crowd problems,” Jones said in the wake of his side’s 34-14 win against Portugal. “I am of the firm opinion that we are destroying the flow of the game. We have got so many stoppages now … we had a TMO for everything.

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Possibly off-topic, but doomscrolling the internet makes you weaker in terms of health and libido.
How to bring it to my boyfriend - that is an issue for me..
 
More BAN HAMMER time.
Yes, that plastic shield pried right off.
I did however use a lot of caution just in case it had become brittle.
Front of engine is totally removed, oil pan also.
Next is the intake manifold and valve covers.
I have no money at this time to make the parts purchase so just taking lots of time and scrubbing, cleaning parts and buffing bolts clean.
The cam position sensor had a very slight mark across its face, find out there is a sensor magnet clipped within a bore of the cam sprocket. That megnetic sensor had one clip that had started to break, the only way to replace that magnet is to do a total tear down of the front of the engine and timing components.
I’m now happy that when I ordered the crank PS that I also got the cam PS and removed it or else within a few thousand miles that magnet would have busted free and left the engine in a no start mode.
If My old cast iron 3.8 GN engine had the proper mountings and bell housing, it with its turbo system and good old distributor could be shoved into this hole. 😹😹😹
 
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