2017 F250 Rear Brake Rotor Removal

[Big T]

Rotors are stuck on the axle. Note the wheel studs are rammed forward in the rotor holes:


It’s my son’s truck. I told him to reinstall the calipers and have someone stand on the brakes to hold the rotor, while using a long breaker bar (floor Jack handle) between the studs to work the axle backwards against the rotor.

Thoughts?

 

[dbrannon79]

is this the rear? have parking brake shoes inside? use a torch to heat up the area over the shoes and then a big hammer! don't get it cherry red though. if it's just rusted to the wheel hub. heating in between the studs and use some BP blaster to squirt in the crevice through the stud holes. then hammer on the sides and in between the studs. that usually will do the trick.

 

[Big T]

is this the rear? have parking brake shoes inside? use a torch to heat up the area over the shoes and then a big hammer! don't get it cherry red though. if it's just rusted to the wheel hub. heating in between the studs and use some BP blaster to squirt in the crevice through the stud holes. then hammer on the sides and in between the studs. that usually will do the trick.

Rear. Wondering if he left the parking brake on?

 

[MrMarty51]

I use about a three pound hammer and rapppp around on the outer edge of rotor. Sometimes around the very outward facing corner of the outward edge.
That usually knocks them to moving and can then slide them off.
Make sure the park brake is released, on the stomper pedal and also the adjuster, if there is one.

 

[Big T]

My son bashed it off with a BFH. He was replacing the rotors anyway, as they had developed a horrible squeak when warm and they had 100K miles on them. Installed PowerStop Pads and Rotors (drilled/slotted) as that was what the Ford Forum posters recommended. I was in the truck during break-in of the pads and it was fine.

 

[Will L.]

Just an fyi- drilled / slotted rotors:

The drilled holes are to allow more air flow across the face and have more cooling. The concentrated areas tend to create more rotor warping when used at moderate braking levels- works well high speed and frequent hard braking. Not so much getting groceries.

The slot is designed to do a micro shave of the pads every time the brakes are applied. It is a pure performance useage where you are knowingly sacrificing the longevity of the pad to keep the pad from glazing over so you will have slightly better braking under high heat applications. This would be exactly opposite of wanting long life from them.

The advantage to both of these is sacrifice the pad life and even rotor life for performance.

most people just copy what the performance world does because it’s “better”, but don’t understand the pro/con.

Doing offroad, especially fine dust or mud greatly shortens the life beyond that because the particles build up in the holes and slots. Simply adding sandpaper to run across the pads from dirt/mud in the holes. Dirt will embed in the pads, Then the slot does it designed job and shaves away some pad material to eliminate the high spot of the dirt.

In the harsh desert races like Mint400, baja 500&1000- it is not uncommon to eat 80% of a set of pads each race. But going that fast who cares about a stupid $400 set of pads on each axle. Go fast or go home.

If he is generating that much heat to justify drilled AND slotted rotors- ya might send those rotors for thermal heat dispersion coating then chryo so they last and only wear the pads faster instead of the rotors having short life also. DD drilled & slotted rotors
Is far more common in Hummers- because braking isn’t exactly stellar. So adding brembos or similar happens as well. Better calipers make much bigger improvements than rotor does by 3:1.

 

[Big T]

Just an fyi- drilled / slotted rotors:

The drilled holes are to allow more air flow across the face and have more cooling. The concentrated areas tend to create more rotor warping when used at moderate braking levels- works well high speed and frequent hard braking. Not so much getting groceries.

The slot is designed to do a micro shave of the pads every time the brakes are applied. It is a pure performance useage where you are knowingly sacrificing the longevity of the pad to keep the pad from glazing over so you will have slightly better braking under high heat applications. This would be exactly opposite of wanting long life from them.

The advantage to both of these is sacrifice the pad life and even rotor life for performance.

most people just copy what the performance world does because it’s “better”, but don’t understand the pro/con.

Doing offroad, especially fine dust or mud greatly shortens the life beyond that because the particles build up in the holes and slots. Simply adding sandpaper to run across the pads from dirt/mud in the holes. Dirt will embed in the pads, Then the slot does it designed job and shaves away some pad material to eliminate the high spot of the dirt.

In the harsh desert races like Mint400, baja 500&1000- it is not uncommon to eat 80% of a set of pads each race. But going that fast who cares about a stupid $400 set of pads on each axle. Go fast or go home.

If he is generating that much heat to justify drilled AND slotted rotors- ya might send those rotors for thermal heat dispersion coating then chryo so they last and only wear the pads faster instead of the rotors having short life also. DD drilled & slotted rotors
Is far more common in Hummers- because braking isn’t exactly stellar. So adding brembos or similar happens as well. Better calipers make much bigger improvements than rotor does by 3:1.

He used the consensus opinion from the Ford forums.