2013 Escalade ESV w/ SLP TVS2300

[n8in8or]

The oil pressure sensor went bad. I spent over an hour trying to remove it. I had an OPS socket that I had already done some trimming on so I could reach the sensor under the intake on a 6.5…… so I kept trimming it and trimming it until it would clear the supercharger’s intake and slide onto the sensor. By the time it would finally slide on, it didn’t have enough meat to grip the sensor. Neat. Ended up I had to remove the supercharger just to change the sensor.



While it was off, I thought it was interesting what the ports on the supercharger were shaped like. The ports in the heads are rectangles. You can see the witness lines from the gasket.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

I think ya have plenty of room for a 6-71 charger....

 

[dbrannon79]

is it time for a ported intake mod?

 

[n8in8or]

is it time for a ported intake mod?

I have a whole slew of parts collecting to be put into/onto this thing. I’d like to think I’ll finally be ready to start on that next year.

 

[n8in8or]

I also got a new plate for it last week. Someday it will be worthy of it, but I wanted to get this one while it was still available.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

To live up to that plate you'll need a 6-71...

 

[Will L.]

Why do I feel like there is a 6-71 for sale in SC somewhere?

Sucks to need that much effort for a simple sensor.

 

[n8in8or]

To live up to that plate you'll need a 6-71...

I was originally going to just build the engine so it took full advantage of what the 2300 is capable of, but now I'm planning on having the LSA supercharger I have ported. I should still be able to achieve 700 horse at the wheels.

 

[DieselSlug]

The driver quarter panel is getting some rust coming through from the inside (the Rust Belt strikes again!!) so I get to do some rust repair on this vehicle sooner rather than later. I looked into buying a whole quarter panel from GM for $800+ and having that replaced professionally, but decided I didn’t want to go that route right now. Plus doing the job myself I can make sure the interior of the panels are prepped to help prevent future rust. I thought about doing the whole quarter myself, but I’m not sure I want to tackle that right now either. I have experience doing patch panels successfully, so that plan made more sense to me for this. They make a patch panel for the dog leg, but not for the wheel arch and under the gas door where I have other problems…..at least not that I’ve found. Regardless, aftermarket patch panels are so-so as far as fitment goes, so OEM metal would be best. A couple weeks ago when I was at the junkyard I noticed a Suburban that had a clean quarter panel. I had this week off of work so I went to the junkyard to cut it off. It only took about 1.5 hours, which I didn’t think was too bad considering I took everything apart properly and didn’t just rip/cut the interior parts out of the way. I can’t wait to start this rust repair……not, YUCK.

View attachment 94134View attachment 94135View attachment 94136

Nate,

I assume you went with a battery operated sawzall to do this? Reason I am asking is that I have a 5-inch by 3-inch section of rot on my passenger rear wheel arch (basically top center). I see aftermarket panels for $80, but contemplating on JY hacking a panel like you did (much smaller scale though). Trying to plan for what tools to bring as I've never really done things over unbolting at the JY. I't says I cant bring a grinder, cut off wheel, or torch.

 

[dbrannon79]

What about a battery powered sheet metal nibbler?

 

[jrsavoie]

Maybe a sawzall and a 4-1/2" grinder with cut wheels

 

[n8in8or]

Nate,

I assume you went with a battery operated sawzall to do this? Reason I am asking is that I have a 5-inch by 3-inch section of rot on my passenger rear wheel arch (basically top center). I see aftermarket panels for $80, but contemplating on JY hacking a panel like you did (much smaller scale though). Trying to plan for what tools to bring as I've never really done things over unbolting at the JY. I't says I cant bring a grinder, cut off wheel, or torch.

Yeah, a cordless Makita sawzall and a bunch if blades.

 

[n8in8or]

To live up to that plate you'll need a 6-71...

You thinking something like this? At Detroit Autorama today.

 

[DieselSlug]

What about a battery powered sheet metal nibbler?

I actually have access to one on a drill, but from my experience they dont like 90 degree bends and I would struggle with cutting the inner fender out too.

Maybe a sawzall and a 4-1/2" grinder with cut wheels

Unfortunately no grinders allowed.

Yeah, a cordless Makita sawzall and a bunch if blades.

Ive got a DeWalt cordless, need to get some hot blades for it.

 

[jrsavoie]

I actually have access to one on a drill, but from my experience they dont like 90 degree bends and I would struggle with cutting the inner fender out too.

Unfortunately no grinders allowed.

Ive got a DeWalt cordless, need to get some hot blades for it.

Maybe a cordless metal cutting circular saw?

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

You thinking something like this? At Detroit Autorama today. View attachment 98330

Yea or bigger, and injected not carbs...

 

[n8in8or]

I actually have access to one on a drill, but from my experience they dont like 90 degree bends and I would struggle with cutting the inner fender out too.

Unfortunately no grinders allowed.

Ive got a DeWalt cordless, need to get some hot blades for it.

Yeah, I had an assortment of blades so I could cut through just one layer or both the inner and outer layers at once. I remember the biggest struggle being the dogleg, but I eventually persevered.

 

[DieselSlug]

Yeah, I had an assortment of blades so I could cut through just one layer or both the inner and outer layers at once. I remember the biggest struggle being the dogleg, but I eventually persevered.

Yeah, I wont need to tackle that portion. My plan is basically cut the width of the wheel well straight up maybe 6 to 8-inches. I also plan to take the inner and outer together. So I bet thats will be the most difficult part, in the wheel well.

 

[n8in8or]

This week I added a little sumpin’ sumpin’ for my back seat passengers to add to their travel comfort and enjoyment. Any time Kelli’s kids road in the back seats, I felt bad they didn’t have a good place to put their drinks or other little things they had with them. The cupholder in the back of the front center console for the second row passengers is a joke. I researched second row console ideas for it and found that GM made an accessory center console, but it is long discontinued…..and honestly kind of cheesy. I found some people were using Lincoln Navigator second row consoles, but again, a bit cheesy. Then I saw someone had made a Guuci second row console by mounting a front row center console in the second row. Bingo. This was the way.

This is how I did it. I didn’t want to just screw something to the floor so I had to find a way to mount the bracket so it didn’t alter the body of the truck. After a few options I decided I could mount it to the seat mounting brackets, so I pursued that route. I scrounged materials I had on-hand already and started making a bracket. Here it is before paint.



Here’s the bracket painted and installed.



And here’s the console all installed.



I need to figure out how to trim out the front of it still. I don’t know if I’m going to keep the ash tray or cut that off a cupholder assembly and make the overall console shorter and save more room between them.



This weekend we are going on a roadtrip to Detroit with the kids so it will get its first real use right away. I’ll be getting their feedback on it. I’ll be curious if they think it should move forward or back because that will affect my decision on the front of the console. I think it’s a nice addition to the truck!!

 

[dbrannon79]

Nice!

If you remove the ash tray, you can use some MDF board on the front to close it off and cover it with some padding and material to match the interior. add some USB power ports behind the cup holders and hide an inverter under it. wire in a couple of house plugs one front and maybe one in the back for laptops or other creature comfort gadgets that use 110 AC.

if you want to get really fancy, install a bigger inverter somewhere else and run wiring to it and to the back to have on the road power for things a mini fridge and whatnots.