2006 LBZ for Purchase

[Big T]

I am looking at a 2006 LBZ for purchase in the Henderson area of Las Vegas. It has 199K miles, owner has owned it 8 months and it was his first diesel truck and is his daily driver. He has since bought a 2020 for better looks. It previously started life in Montana, then Washington before he bought it in Nevada. It has some rust on the frame and he provided photos. I want the input of the forum here on the amount of rust.

 

[SnowDrift]

It has seen plenty of salt. What does the body look like? Can you pull the plugs in the cab to peek inside of the rockers and cab corners. If you have a bore scope, you can run it into the front fenders from the front to check for rust above the wheel we'll inside. Go from under the hood.

 

[Big T]

It has seen plenty of salt. What does the body look like? Can you pull the plugs in the cab to peek inside of the rockers and cab corners. If you have a bore scope, you can run it into the front fenders from the front to check for rust above the wheel we'll inside. Go from under the hood.

 

[DieselAmateur]

By Northeast coast standards that's not rust and is mint! Literally the springs look new. If that's the worst of it I'd say its in great shape at least frame wise

I have a buddy with a bone stock LBZ that is pushing 350k and running like a top. Trans was rebuilt by him a few winters ago. If you can legally delete the EGR in Montana I'd do that and leave the rest. I've never had to work on one but it seems that the LBZ is the most desired duramax out there

 

[Big T]

By Northeast coast standards that's not rust and is mint! Literally the springs look new. If that's the worst of it I'd say its in great shape at least frame wise

I have a buddy with a bone stock LBZ that is pushing 350k and running like a top. Trans was rebuilt by him a few winters ago. If you can legally delete the EGR in Montana I'd do that and leave the rest. I've never had to work on one but it seems that the LBZ is the most desired duramax out there

I thought the LBZ did not have an EGR. In Montana I can delete. They don’t have inspections or smog tests.

 

[BIGR]

I thought the LBZ did not have an EGR. In Montana I can delete. They don’t have inspections or smog tests.

Yelp, it's got it. Mine has malfuntioned at least once, possibly twice in 19 years. Never deleted or put the blocker plate on it. I use to hear that if you deleted and blocked it, there would be codes unless you used what is called a fingerstick.

Fingers stick only Dmax LBZ 2006-2007 – Kennedy Diesel

 

[BIGR]

View attachment 91206View attachment 91207View attachment 91208I am looking at a 2006 LBZ for purchase in the Henderson area of Las Vegas. It has 199K miles, owner has owned it 8 months and it was his first diesel truck and is his daily driver. He has since bought a 2020 for better looks. It previously started life in Montana, then Washington before he bought it in Nevada. It has some rust on the frame and he provided photos. I want the input of the forum here on the amount of rust.

I have seen alot worse than that, don't think there's any problems with frame strength. Mine has a few rust spots here and there, where that factory wax coating has come off. I'm going to touch it up when the weather gets better.

 

[Big T]

We’re driving out to Vegas tomorrow to inspect the truck and likely make an offer on it. I’m bringing a Tech 2 hoping I can check injector balance rates. I will be smelling dipsticks, checking for blowby and checking for blown head gaskets. Crawling all around it. Bringing a BFH to bang on rust spots on the frame, etc.

Wife offered to drive me. She just had cataract surgery Monday on her left eye, but she’s good to go.

 

[BIGR]

We’re driving out to Vegas tomorrow to inspect the truck and likely make an offer on it. I’m bringing a Tech 2 hoping I can check injector balance rates. I will be smelling dipsticks, checking for blowby and checking for blown head gaskets. Crawling all around it. Bringing a BFH to bang on rust spots on the frame, etc.

Wife offered to drive me. She just had cataract surgery Monday on her left eye, but she’s good to go.

First and foremost, I hope the wife continues a fast recovery on her eye. My mom is in her 70s, she had both eyes done in a matter of months. She is doing real well with hers. Brother and law had his done, he's mid 60s, he doesn't need glasses anymore, doing well with his.

Anyway, let me get back on subject here. I hope the truck your looking at works out for you. The LBZ Duramax is a pulling beast, I think of the modern Duramaxes it is about the best one to have. No particle filter, no DEF fluid, yelp it's got that true diesel smell coming out of the exhaust, ha, ha. It's not rated as powerful as the new ones, but 360 hp and 650 ft/lbs of torque will do about anything I need to do. Mine only has 102,000 miles on it, so I can't advise a whole lot on it, but I will tell you about any issues I had with it. Biggest thing is, years ago the turbo went out on it, probably my fault from a lack of driving, maybe it rusted up in there, not sure I didn't tear it apart. I had a newer Garrett turbo put on there, it has a whole different turbo sound than the original one, but it works just fine.

Next thing was the EGR motor stuck, probably due to being cruded up, that's happened at least once, maybe twice.

Oh yea, the transmission lines have those little crimps on the end, they are prone to leak around the cooler/ radiator area, mine has leaked some mostly in colder weather, it's not been real bad, I just watch the fluid level. Seems like it's not as bad lately, I keep a piece of cardboard under it in the garage, going to put a new piece of cardboard down to see if it's still dripping. Dealership said they could replace the lines years ago for X amount of dollars, but I wondered if their fix would cure the problem, has the newer lines been improved? You can read online there are fixes and repair kits for that issue.

Glow plugs, years ago, one would go bad about every October for some reason, I assume because it was starting to get cold weather again, triggered it. After dealing with that a couple of times, I just had the rest of them replaced while the mechanic was at it. So, yea, all 8 glow plugs have been replaced, knock on wood, no glow plug issues since then.

Next thing was a coolant leak around the valley of the engine, I think it was a hose clamp or small hose maybe, I'd have to go back and check my records. I had been smelling anti freeze and had been loosing anti freeze and having to add some time to time. I had that fixed, no more issues with that.

Last but not least, some 2006 and other year models had the dreaded transfer case pump rub. I assume the truck your looking at is 4 wheel drive? A faulty clip design allows alot of movement of the pump inside the transfer case, allowing it to rub the outer case, eventually rubbing a hole in it in on some trucks. So far, knock on wood, I've not had that issue, but there again I'm only at 102,000 miles, so maybe I could be on borrowed time. There is a fix for it, they sell a kit to repair it, naturally you have to tear the transfer case down to do it. You can search the net, there's a ton of info on it.

That's all the issues I have had, that I can recall. I must add, that the oil level on the dip stick has always been full, I've never had to add a drop of oil between changes. Hope I'm not jinxing myself and it starts using oil.

 

[Will L.]

Head gasket test kit. I will most likely be out working- but if you don’t have one I will leave mine in the living room for my wife to give to you.

The addition of a fass lift pump with filters is a given on a dmax. See lawsuits to understand why. So many destroyed injection systems is why it’s cheaper to buy a new optimizer than a new cp3, injectors, and clean the tank & lines.
I know you already know to check balance rates (obviously).

The high end LP is just like a spare pmd is to the 6.5 ds4- not an absolute requirement just if you want it long term.
When people own the truck this long and don’t make the investment, that tells me they don’t research problems until they happen so you need to expect all the common problems to occur since they won’t take preventive action. The only exception is when the truck has amazing low mileage on it and they planned on not keeping it to a high mileage life- which also doesn’t impress me with a desire for optimum maintenance.
if they don’t have it- then ask why. If they have a true belief it simply isn’t required, fine, but know your risk increases and the lower selling price ensues.

Ask if he did the crank pin kit where they replace the two tiny pins with a keyway. If not, plan on it. If he bumped up the power at all and didn’t do this- suspect doing everything on the cheap and inspect/ adjust price accordingly. Again if they never planned on owning it for over 200k miles mark fine- but you should plan on it VERY SOON. Doing this and the LP should be done immediately if not already there.

Wish I could have went and checked the truck for you, sorry.

 

[Big T]

Well I woke up in the middle of the night and decided to cancel the trip to Vegas to see this truck. Really came down to available time. We have 5 vehicles and 3 homes that I’m chasing with maintenance and repairs and it’s been killing me. I need to focus and clear what’s already on my plate.

 

[Big T]

Head gasket test kit. I will most likely be out working- but if you don’t have one I will leave mine in the living room for my wife to give to you.

The addition of a fass lift pump with filters is a given on a dmax. See lawsuits to understand why. So many destroyed injection systems is why it’s cheaper to buy a new optimizer than a new cp3, injectors, and clean the tank & lines.
I know you already know to check balance rates (obviously).

The high end LP is just like a spare pmd is to the 6.5 ds4- not an absolute requirement just if you want it long term.
When people own the truck this long and don’t make the investment, that tells me they don’t research problems until they happen so you need to expect all the common problems to occur since they won’t take preventive action. The only exception is when the truck has amazing low mileage on it and they planned on not keeping it to a high mileage life- which also doesn’t impress me with a desire for optimum maintenance.
if they don’t have it- then ask why. If they have a true belief it simply isn’t required, fine, but know your risk increases and the lower selling price ensues.

Ask if he did the crank pin kit where they replace the two tiny pins with a keyway. If not, plan on it. If he bumped up the power at all and didn’t do this- suspect doing everything on the cheap and inspect/ adjust price accordingly. Again if they never planned on owning it for over 200k miles mark fine- but you should plan on it VERY SOON. Doing this and the LP should be done immediately if not already there.

Wish I could have went and checked the truck for you, sorry.

When I talked to the seller last evening to make the appointment I told him I would be making a full inspection. Even bringing a BFH to bang on rusted frame areas. He then starts telling me of known issues, despite my asking previously. Buddy changes the oiil cooler with an aftermarket one. Starter having intermittent issues every week or so. Rear differential has a leak at the drive shaft. He’s only had it 8 months and bought a newer 2020 GMC diesel. So really he doesn’t know what he’s got in many ways and I would probably find more issues. None of these would be killers, as I am fully capable of addressing. But it comes down to available time of which I do not have a lot.

 

[SnowDrift]

I think the frame looked solid based on the amount of factory coating still in place. I just believe there is a fair amount of salt it has been in based on the type of rust that is showing up.

Regardless, sounds like the guy is saving you a trip by letting you know there are issues.

 

[Big T]

I think the frame looked solid based on the amount of factory coating still in place. I just believe there is a fair amount of salt it has been in based on the type of rust that is showing up.

Regardless, sounds like the guy is saving you a trip by letting you know there are issues.

He certainly is not a diesel mechanic. Obviously likes diesels as he bought another, but not capable of dealing with the mid-life issues of a diesel.

 

[WarWagon]

We have 5 vehicles and 3 homes that I’m chasing with maintenance and repairs and it’s been killing me. I need to focus and clear what’s already on my plate.

It's got 200K on it, PERIOD. At 250K the truck starts to fall apart around the engine. It's frugal to run older vehicles, but, at some point you may want to get it down to two reliable vehicles and spend your time doing something else than major repairs like collectively we do on the 6.5TD rigs.

Maybe it's time for a new (or way newer) modern vehicle gas or diesel. Don't worry about emission system deletes and if you are maybe a gasoline rig is a better choice. After all a modern gas engine gets the same or better MPG as the older 6.5TD's. The emissions systems are way better after the EPA allowed the use of DEF. Limited time offer as the next Glowing Government Report without regard to cost kicks in in 2027. Cummins has a aluminum head and added F%$& Glow Plugs for 2025 due to emissions reasons. Maybe 2024 is the newest one wants to go for now.

I will say again what I told dad after he dumped the problematic 1998 6.2L for a 1994 454 2500 Suburban and then traded it for a Lemon Olds Bravada. Dad DUMP THE FUEL IN IT and quit bitching about the cost at the pump! IMO one of the stupidest trades he ever made as the payment increase ate the fuel savings. It was also one of the nicest vehicles we had ever owned. It was a hellva lot cheaper on parts (none) than the 1988 6.2L glow plug and starter muncher...

So far I put 60+K on my new 2018 RAM and other than the Grid Heater bolt BD aftermarket cure and batteries it's been the dealer's problem for the few issues it's had. Night and day from working on the other rides to the point of ridiculousness like I did with the 6.5TD's.

Just saying it's time to re-think high mile old stuff and the concern for modern DPF with DEF emission systems. Or switch to a modern gasoline rig with a cheaper TCO.

 

[jrsavoie]

Well I woke up in the middle of the night and decided to cancel the trip to Vegas to see this truck. Really came down to available time. We have 5 vehicles and 3 homes that I’m chasing with maintenance and repairs and it’s been killing me. I need to focus and clear what’s already on my plate.

Wish I could get 2nds on that truck and just sell my 6.5

 

[Big T]

It's got 200K on it, PERIOD. At 250K the truck starts to fall apart around the engine. It's frugal to run older vehicles, but, at some point you may want to get it down to two reliable vehicles and spend your time doing something else than major repairs like collectively we do on the 6.5TD rigs.

Maybe it's time for a new (or way newer) modern vehicle gas or diesel. Don't worry about emission system deletes and if you are maybe a gasoline rig is a better choice. After all a modern gas engine gets the same or better MPG as the older 6.5TD's. The emissions systems are way better after the EPA allowed the use of DEF. Limited time offer as the next Glowing Government Report without regard to cost kicks in in 2027. Cummins has a aluminum head and added F%$& Glow Plugs for 2025 due to emissions reasons. Maybe 2024 is the newest one wants to go for now.

I will say again what I told dad after he dumped the problematic 1998 6.2L for a 1994 454 2500 Suburban and then traded it for a Lemon Olds Bravada. Dad DUMP THE FUEL IN IT and quit bitching about the cost at the pump! IMO one of the stupidest trades he ever made as the payment increase ate the fuel savings. It was also one of the nicest vehicles we had ever owned. It was a hellva lot cheaper on parts (none) than the 1988 6.2L glow plug and starter muncher...

So far I put 60+K on my new 2018 RAM and other than the Grid Heater bolt BD aftermarket cure and batteries it's been the dealer's problem for the few issues it's had. Night and day from working on the other rides to the point of ridiculousness like I did with the 6.5TD's.

Just saying it's time to re-think high mile old stuff and the concern for modern DPF with DEF emission systems. Or switch to a modern gasoline rig with a cheaper TCO.

Well I just installed a new 6.5 Optimizer in my ‘99 Suburban. All of that drivetrain is new. No EGR; no DPF.

‘94 Suburban son gave to me because I was doing all the work on it. 296K miles and runs well, but can get needy.

Hard for me to justify a new tow rig based on the amount of use.

My commute car is an ‘05 Honda Accord and that is solid.

Wife has ‘23 and ‘14 4Runners. The 2014 has 370K miles on it. In the last 50K we’ve replaced alternator, fan clutch, new seals on transfer case, transmission, rear main seal. It runs great, but it’s at that age where peripheral stuff is going.