2005 Honda Accord Front End Rub under Acceleration

[Big T]

5 spd manual. Only happens in 1s and slightly in 2nd. Sounds like a fan rubbing against a shroud, but this only has electric fan. Rub pace increases with acceleration. Does not happen when engine is revved out of gear. Put it up on stands and does not happen. Any idea?

 

[ak diesel driver]

Any evidence of a tire rubbing?

 

[Big T]

Any evidence of a tire rubbing?

No, and it does not sound like that. Trying to upload video with sound, but site will not take .mov file and I'm having trouble logging into YouTube account.

 

[schiker]

Does it do it worse going uphill, heavy acceleration, downhill, light acceleration or any combination of those?

Maybe a test would be to set the parking brake and launch to see if the engine is torquing over some from a worn bushing?

Is the fan wobbly and noise is covered up with speed or it centralizes somehow. Any rubbing if sitting still and fan initially engages?

 

[Big T]

Does it do it worse going uphill, heavy acceleration, downhill, light acceleration or any combination of those?

Maybe a test would be to set the parking brake and launch to see if the engine is torquing over some from a worn bushing?

Is the fan wobbly and noise is covered up with speed or it centralizes somehow. Any rubbing if sitting still and fan initially engages?

Here’s the video with sound from inside:

Not worse uphill vs downhill. If follows engine speed because the same sound revs up, though at a lighter level in 2nd gear.

 

[schiker]

I hear it but don't know. Post up any changes as it presents more. My truck is getting so ratty I'd just have to turn my radio up for that until I could figure it out better. Or I'd like to say that. Those kind of things will bug me.

 

[Big T]

I hear it but don't know. Post up any changes as it presents more. My truck is getting so ratty I'd just have to turn my radio up for that until I could figure it out better. Or I'd like to say that. Those kind of things will bug me.

I’m thinking Les might be right that it’s some sort of wheel or tire rub. The sound is feinter in 2nd gear and basically not there in other gears. When it comes on in 2nd gear, it appears to pick up at the prior speed, not engine speed. I wish there were some way to mount my phone in there to try and nail this down. I will definitely get under there to take a closer look.

 

[smokymtn65]

GoPro time..

 

[Will L.]

GoPro time..

I think this is the answer. Either this or the chassis ears.

The video just doesn’t run long enough or sound distinctly enough to analyze anything.

I am leaning drivetrain. Trans, cv/u joints, throw out, etc.

If you don’t have the diagnostic tools, or cant rent them-sometimes it’s worth paying for an exam/estimate at a shop. $75 or $100 for them to test drive with the chassis ears and tell you exactly whats wrong- have them show you while it is on the rack if you can wait their while they do it. Then if cheap enough, they fix it or if you can save a lot in labor and online parts sourcing, then you can still do it. Consider their diagnostic tool rental fee.

2 theories
Ya need a “bob’s garage” for this definitely no dealership is going to allow you under the lift. Opposing theory is dealership knows that car better and their written estimate is more likely correct.
So if I got caught in this situation, I want to see the issue, I tell them upfront- “I want to wait here and go look at the problem under the lift to see myself.” If they say no, I’d move on to the next shop.

Secret weapon here- ever tip a waitress?
Ever pull up to a shop with a cooler full of ice cold sodas or a box of donuts? It works wonders on mechanics and shop owners. Don’t be afraid to tell them- I am paying you to find it so I can take it home and diy.

The soda/ snack thing works- story time:
My wife’s car (Chrysler LHS) under factory warranty, they were fixing a steering issue, and there was a slight coolant leak that was dripping down by a headgasket. When he showed me steering problem and the actual leak I said, “Dang, I know the factory head gaskets had issue and new upgraded ones are available, but it will go out of warranty first.” Mind you he is drinking the cold can of soda I brought him and munching whatever snack I bought at the time. I was about $7 into a “tip” at this point. He says “So both head gaskets? You say it smokes sometimes and you keep adding coolant every other the day...?... Yep need new gaskets needed.” And lifted the drink like a toast. He then tells me the joystick balance controller on the radio fails and has a fix, would I like that replaced too? Just let the service writer know i told him about the radio problem I forgot to mention when dropping it off, and is there any way to get reimbursed for all the coolant (but no reimbursement will come, just ask about it).
I was pissed at Chrysler at the time for the unsafe steering issue- so I felt cheating them was ok at the time. Must have thought it was -tho shalt not steal unless thou is mad.
It’s funny, all the vehicles I worked on professionally, I never once tried to rip anyone off. Still had people call me names when they heard the price. But folks that gave me honest appreciation, or a couple bucks or offered a soda- even one guy brought me a bigmac combo while getting himself one while car was broke down and waiting anyways- think I didn’t remember them for next time and put in some free labor? One gal had pizzas delivered to our small shop once- every guy in the shop jumped in and did some free stuff to her hoopty rustmobile.

 

[Big T]

I think this is the answer. Either this or the chassis ears.

The video just doesn’t run long enough or sound distinctly enough to analyze anything.

I am leaning drivetrain. Trans, cv/u joints, throw out, etc.

If you don’t have the diagnostic tools, or cant rent them-sometimes it’s worth paying for an exam/estimate at a shop. $75 or $100 for them to test drive with the chassis ears and tell you exactly whats wrong- have them show you while it is on the rack if you can wait their while they do it. Then if cheap enough, they fix it or if you can save a lot in labor and online parts sourcing, then you can still do it. Consider their diagnostic tool rental fee.

2 theories
Ya need a “bob’s garage” for this definitely no dealership is going to allow you under the lift. Opposing theory is dealership knows that car better and their written estimate is more likely correct.
So if I got caught in this situation, I want to see the issue, I tell them upfront- “I want to wait here and go look at the problem under the lift to see myself.” If they say no, I’d move on to the next shop.

Secret weapon here- ever tip a waitress?
Ever pull up to a shop with a cooler full of ice cold sodas or a box of donuts? It works wonders on mechanics and shop owners. Don’t be afraid to tell them- I am paying you to find it so I can take it home and diy.

The soda/ snack thing works- story time:
My wife’s car (Chrysler LHS) under factory warranty, they were fixing a steering issue, and there was a slight coolant leak that was dripping down by a headgasket. When he showed me steering problem and the actual leak I said, “Dang, I know the factory head gaskets had issue and new upgraded ones are available, but it will go out of warranty first.” Mind you he is drinking the cold can of soda I brought him and munching whatever snack I bought at the time. I was about $7 into a “tip” at this point. He says “So both head gaskets? You say it smokes sometimes and you keep adding coolant every other the day...?... Yep need new gaskets needed.” And lifted the drink like a toast. He then tells me the joystick balance controller on the radio fails and has a fix, would I like that replaced too? Just let the service writer know i told him about the radio problem I forgot to mention when dropping it off, and is there any way to get reimbursed for all the coolant (but no reimbursement will come, just ask about it).
I was pissed at Chrysler at the time for the unsafe steering issue- so I felt cheating them was ok at the time. Must have thought it was -tho shalt not steal unless thou is mad.
It’s funny, all the vehicles I worked on professionally, I never once tried to rip anyone off. Still had people call me names when they heard the price. But folks that gave me honest appreciation, or a couple bucks or offered a soda- even one guy brought me a bigmac combo while getting himself one while car was broke down and waiting anyways- think I didn’t remember them for next time and put in some free labor? One gal had pizzas delivered to our small shop once- every guy in the shop jumped in and did some free stuff to her hoopty rustmobile.

My sister uses a Honda mechanic who grew up with us on the same street. He's trustworthy.

I replaced the CV axles about 16k miles ago, but they are CKO. Boots are intact. No noise while turning.

Had my son walk along side while driving it and we just couldn't tell.

 

[Will L.]

Yeah, break out a go pro or tape an old smartphone underneath. With those methods it usually take. 5 or 6 locations to get a good idea so be patient

 

[Big T]

I took the WarWagon approach on this: Drive it until the problem is self evident.

The sound suddenly went away and my AC compressor no longer works.

 

[Will L.]

We want carnage pics! Haha. I have worked with several mechanics whose decision was “let it develop”. Often a smarter choice than countless hours of diagnostics.

So did the compressor sieze, or the clutch fail, or what?

 

[Big T]

We want carnage pics! Haha. I have worked with several mechanics whose decision was “let it develop”. Often a smarter choice than countless hours of diagnostics.

So did the compressor sieze, or the clutch fail, or what?

Took it to an AC shop and don’t know yet. That AC compressor had been making noise when it cycles on for at least 50K miles. Then the acceleration rub noise described here and it was done in about 3K miles.

 

[Big T]

Shop called and said the AC compressor is shot. Took then 2 hours yesterday and another 1/2 hour this morning to figure that out when I told them that when I dropped it off. SMH.

 

[Big T]

$835 later, I have AC. $500 of that was parts. New compressor, condenser, valves, purging and refilling the refrigerant.