• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

2002 Yukon front differential failure.

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
Messages
10,874
Reaction score
8,964
Location
AZ
Was going to change the oil as it has a minor driver side seal leak and is slightly low on oil. Easy-peazy and go on to next project right? 119K and PO changed the oil at least once sometime in the past.

But, why bother changing the oil when you can have the diff rebuilt, cleaned out, and resealed? o_O

I mean nothing like stopping an oil change because you can't read the ground up part numbers coming out in the oil! :facepalm: Not only was the magnet full there was a clogged toilet glop of metal that also came out at first. :wtf:

Stick a fork in it done. :dead:
full mag.jpg

Looks like vent disc may have been loose as it just popped off when we went to pull the hose off. Driver side axle shaft has lots of play and a ugly thunk-thunk when you rock the pinion back and forth.

Although thetruckmodcentral has a nice how to guide on removal the poster is dyslectic: you turn the wheels to the LEFT (make left turn) to get it out. At least for 2002.

Going to replace the steering box pitman arm as it's sloppy. That's the other removal option is to get the steering bar out of the way.

Also going to see why the transfer case acts like it's still in 4x4 and it's NOT an AWD version.

Patch doing the dirty work again.

patch_load.jpg
 
I'd probably just put in a low mileage jy one

Yes rebuild cost more than a JY unit at over $850. In a hurry to get it fixed first of all so having the right one and proper ratio to go back in the 1st try... (Full time vs. auto part time vs. manual may have different parts.) Second GM changed something in 2003 to address failures. Bad OEM bearings, wrong preload, locktabs sheering off - whatever. (Don't want to do the job a second time if GM's issue pops up in the JY unit.) Third is a longer warranty.

If the spare one from the 1993 would have bolted in...

And doing the front end, tie rods, idler, pitman. Couple grand for the "oil change". Wasn't looking to do this much, but, I did bring it over for some TLC.
 
So it needed bearing kit plus Ring and Pinion.
I had posted maybe last year the outer axle seals have been sent out defective and that's from the three (3) top seal providers, as a reminder the seals were all canted in the bore of the metal housing making install a bitch and leaking shortly there after, so make sure what you buy is not defective before install....of I'll hear your cursing all the way over here in my AO.
 
Wow WW. Did You get a reman unit ?
I did not click like on the first post because You were having problems. good to find these things before getting into a hog then having it break.
 
No, had a local diff shop rebuild mine. Aka rent good experience. Remans actually cost more, ~$1100, even on Rock Auto.
 
Junk yards sell lots of parts here, but most gear failure related items prove to re occurr with the “new to you” parts in my experience.

I learned long ago to get it done at a good shop, even though I had training on it. Tons of shops and some individuals have the tooling. Problem is there is an art to it, and I don’t color inside the lines always.

I didn’t understand why most people don’t just get them rebuilt until I became the Mac Tools guy and saw the other half. The priced and problems so many have. That’s when I learned that knowing a really good shop, let alone that there are 2 top notch shops here, was the key most people miss out on.

Shameless plug incase anyone is in or breaks down with axle related issues in Vegas area- Adam’s Driveshaft and Dan’s Driveline. Both top notch and fair priced shops. Infact, over half of the dealerships use them and just let required tools sit on a shelf. I am not tied to them, just having dealt with them over the years.

Hope your shop does as good a work for you there.
 
The biggest problem with this area is, there are no specialty shops that does just drivelines and differentials. Just the run of the mill mechanics.
I have rebuilt several differentials but just not enough to become real comfortable with properly setting them up.
Not having the pinion depth gauge is a big minus, but, so far, it seems that the ones I`ve gone through have held up for years.
An IFS front diff, cant say I would want to even rip into one of those. LOL
 
And over the past 2 weeks I have visited the folks... What is that hot diff oil smell?! Finally got under the rig and factory paint on the rear diff fill plug, but, it's fine. PO thought he had them changed but at a shop... Clearly not. But rear diff is fine. Checked front diff: full of oil and...

Anyone need some Snow Globe Glitter for Xmas? :wtf:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top