Welcome! Fill out your signature with truck year & details such as transmission type, mileage, 2x4 or 4x4, and any mods (or say bone stock as you've already done) so that anyone who sees you post won't have to ask for the aforementioned details every time or on a different thread
Lots of good upgrades, do some searching for the following essentials such as:
oil cooler lines
fan clutch
Bigger/ better turbo
Feed the best fuel line mod
sock filter in tank delete
There's many I'm sure I'm forgetting as there's much to be done that can improve this platform. Let us know what your priorities are (seeing as how you use the truck for work/ commercial use you're probably not interested in chasing mpg over power) and what your budget is and we can best suggest/ advise on how to improve and keep your rig on the road for years to come
Only had it for a couple years. Didn't know much about the 6.5 but can see why there's a dedicated following.
I've had the cummins 5.9 and the 6.7 plus a variety of class 8 trucks so not my first rodeo.
I think the older idi is really interesting and plan on just waking mine up a little bit to pull the things I'm in to.
Thank you for the reply(s) and suggestions.
6.5 is what it is.
That said I agree it's not a cummins etc.. Mine has been doing great all things considered. It drags around rock pulls my mini and other similar things.
Could be better on throttle response and pulling heavy up hills. Hopefully I can learn some things to improve it without messing it up.
Welcome.
A few things to do right off to make sure you don’t loose the engine anytime soon.
As mentioned that 210f top becomes non negotiable. Gm temp gauges are notoriously junk. I am fond of a secondary temp gauge. The danger zone on this engine is #8 so adding it there is smart.
Check the oil cooler hoses- if seeping oil, cracking, or just original- change them for higher end hose. LeroyDiesel.com sells upgraded hoses- or go to actual hydraulic hoses like is done in all hmmwvs. One of those blow and engine is ruined in seconds.
The next big is the harmonic balancer. There is a belt drive pulley infront of the balancer that always gets replaced at same time. But the balancer is key. Examine for rubber cracking, outer ring shifting, etc. in the fleet we had the habit of grab it from underneath and try to make it move. If you can- it was bad anyways, however dont do it on a day you can’t swap it. Only 2 options worth doing. AC Delco or fluidampr for much more money. The Delco is good for 100,000 miles. The fluidampr is forever. The pulley in front of it- DELCO AGAIN FOR 100,000 miles or Leroy’s billet pulley good forever.
The 6.5 ONCE needed corrections are made is a descent engine. But they do not last as long as a cummins unless you really dial everything in and don’t abuse it.
There is other things to know soon, but not as critical.
Clear ip (injection pump) fuel return line, and fuel pressure gauge tapped at the ip inlet. 8-14 psi is your range.You should have the electronic ds4 ip. It uses a device called pmd to operate the ip. Factory it is mounted on the ip- they don’t last there. A relocation kit :a heat sink and an extension cable BOUGHT FROM GOOD SOURCE and mounted out of the engine bay.
Having a spare pmd is like a spare tire- simple requirement. I like the idea having two mounted in heat sinks and a plug to keep the spare clean. When the issues pop up just move the wire over, send the bad one in for warranty.
Yes, you will hear better turbo a lot. Think of this: the tiniest turbo ever on a 5.9 liter cummins was the hx35, about 15% more flow than the gm unit. And how often did you run the 5.9 to 3800 rpm because the 6.5 liter is happy hitting it, It is a high rpm diesel.
Honda 2.2 guys loved to get our old asthma attack turbo because it is perfect for that size engine. Keep the boost under control- dealing with compression 21.5 :1 vs 17.5:1 cummins for instance.
Adding an inner cooler helps with power and keeping heat down.
Ps, be careful talking to me. I will spend all your money and half your neighbors. My name is Will, and I am a 6.5 addict.
Will covered just about everything else, he's been around more 6.5s than most of us and even if he wants to spend all your money his intentions are still good
Since your engine is electronically injected you'll need to have the ECM (computer) tuned to allow for higher boost numbers and to get more fuel output than stock. The differences are very noticeable.
Some will also tell you to upgrade to a mechanical IP- this gets rid of electronic bugs from the PMD and the mechanical pumps do put out more fuel. Plus it will allow you to run higher than allowed boost as the computer won't throw your manual trans or mechanical IP into limp mode. The swap is a little more involved, and not the first place to start. But the electronic IP was discontinued by stanadyne in 2020, so if you want to hang onto the truck for a long time you will eventually be forced to convert to a mechanical IP as the military still uses it and as of this time there is no aftermarket support picking up the slack for the discontinued DS4
But first place to start is the cooling mods, definitely check the balancer and crank pulley (how many miles are on the engine?) and relocate the PMD ASAP
I'd also recommend an EGT gauge especially with all the towing you're doing. Boost and another temp gauge located in the #8 cylinder as mentioned are good to have too
Also don't buy any parts from SS Diesel or Pensacola Diesel and use only AC Delco brand sensors for this engine
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