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1st Stall in 2 yrs, then drove 150miles no prob

Drop the tank don't take shortcuts, you are this far into it already, I flush mine with water, drain it as best I can thru the senders opening/filler neck.

Then I mop it out with a sock on the end of a coat hangar, then I put the shop vac on blow, the high volume of warm air will dry out the tank.
 
Cleaning upper PMD Harness, no avail

Stalled once on way to work,

Once on way home, When it stalled on way home I floored it (in 3rd doing about 40's) and it 'caught'....


Cleaned lower PMD connector by Isolator plate.

That weatherpak kept those connections super clean. None the less, I sprayed the NON PMD side connector with 'connector cleaner' and put a little Noalox on the connector and plugged it back in. I dropped my entire skidplate to make srue I could get a good view inside PMD, looked spotless...

We'll see what tomorrow yields.
 
On a side note my fuel gauge is so erratic it actually got itself caught pointing straight down and was stuck on my oil PSI guage... Had to kick it in super high idle from idle to 'free' it...

I am going to give up finding the ground to that junk FSU I have in the rear. More than likely it's the junk junk FSU that is the culprit I assume.
 
Well... grounds...

1 stall today to work one stall home...

Told myself one ground at a time till i find out which one it is....

Well, started down by starter, as I replaced that a few weeks ago before symptoms

2 1/2 year old ground strap rotted clean off.... Went to route a 2gauge wire and was going to attach it to 2nd post in P.S. rear intake to the 2 twisted wires that are grounded together.

Took those 2 wires off and i could tell they were junk in the connector. pulled it right off.

So,

2 questionably bad (probably) twisted grounds.

1 bad engine to frame strap.

I have a length of 2 guage, and a buch of old dryer cords, so i'm going to repair those, and maybe toss another cab to frame or engine to cab ground, or both.

Lets see what tomorrow yields.
 
Re-crimped and cleaned the 2 from the loom in the back of engine to intake stud ground.

Added a 8 guage engine to cab 1' long to same stud.

Replaced engine to frame ground with 6gauge.

Replaced frame to cab ground with 4 gauge.

Redundant info for my records...
 
I have a erratic fuel gauge like you on the 95,swapping a new filter in solved it for 250 klicks,now its back with a vengence.I think the LP is nearing the end of its life(2.5 yrs old)i will swap a new one in one of these days.
I think LP ground is one of the rear head grounds.
The stalling, i would say PMD as well, the 95 burned out 3 of them in as many months in dead winter.You go figure
 
Since it is Heath's PMD and you already paid for the 7 yrs warranty, may want to call Heath and see if you can try a new one?
 
Well, can't rule out PMD until you do a THOROUGH ground cleaning.

I kind of had fun with the stall this time, because I know my 6.5 and thats the beaty of these engines... easy to fix when you know the beast. I had faith it wasn't heath's unit, had doubts about the connector that I unhooked to fix head, but now thats bulletbroof for piece of mind.

No stall today, 40 miles. Voltage gauge never broke under 14. Prior to repairing the grounds yesterday, when I had my fan on, and/ or lights on, it would be a tad under 14.

Now, When I went to re-install my engine/cab to frame, the frame threads must have stripped out, because the bolt would no longer tighten.

The closest/easiest bolt I found was the one that holds the brake line on, a little before the front axle.

The new cables I made, were too short to route back to the original rear intake stud, so I put it to the 2nd one from the front, the same one as my Battery neg grounds too.

On that bolt that goes frame to engine, I also made a new wire that goes to the cab.

So, I have an addition engine to cab ground, and the frame to engine to batt neg, and the cab to frame to batt neg.

Seems good so far. The voltage being back up above 14 at all times is just an added bonus. In fact, with all my 30+ marker bulbs, and fan on high, it sits square at 14.

Fuel guage remains erratic, especially during key off key on.

I'm going to take the older cable that was too short, and possibly put that straight from D.S. neg to frame. (same bolt that holds brake line on is easy to access and re-use.

I think I'm going to replace all my ground bolts/nuts with SS ones. Do a few a week. Or make habit to replace one bolt/nut with SS every week. The parts will add up fast :)

No more DS-Whore, and back to the DS-4... Still to early to tell for sure, but I'd bet money on it..

Side note, got some overdrive in on the new skins, 60mph at 2,000rpm. PERFECT.

Can't wait to FINALLY treat the girl to a nice 4" exhaust... soon.... very very soon.
 
The nice thing about where my grounds are now, is they are routed away from all exhaust hot spots, not right next to it. I suspect they'll alst alot longer here. I also covered all connections with dialectric grease, and then used battery terminal spray over them when done.
 
Update.

2 days and about 100 miles later. Stall free.

This concludes todays lesson about importance of grounds.

Now back to our regularly scheduled program...
 
Well, can't rule out PMD until you do a THOROUGH ground cleaning.


Seems good so far. The voltage being back up above 14 at all times is just an added bonus. In fact, with all my 30+ marker bulbs, and fan on high, it sits square at 14.

I'm going to take the older cable that was too short, and possibly put that straight from D.S. neg to frame. (same bolt that holds brake line on is easy to access and re-use.
.

This seemed to be a cooincedence that my alt's volt regulator was stuck 'on'? As the Alt died a few days after this post.

Adding the addition grounds from D.S. Neg to frame, and P.S Engine (where P.S. Battery neg bolts to) to frame couldn't possibly cause my alternator failure?

Cooincedence? (sp?)
 
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