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1999 Tahoe with goodwrench 6.5td

And that uncovered air filter is sucking in hot air from the engine bay, which ruins performance.

If you’re pulling the valve cover, buy new valve cover and do not mess with trying to make the old ones work. The amount of time involved is not worth a redo to adress a leaky valve cover.

That sounds like a normal 6.5.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Yeah man, good point.
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Well. Haven't been a problem here yet. But it is on to do list. Not pulling heavy. And, it's Norway. Haven't been over 50 degrees Fahrenheit yet.
It's cool to touch.
In the front it's open to all the water and salt on the roads. Then over heat isn't a problem. 🤣 But corrosion. 🤔🤣
But it was temporary location.
 
Big T said:
And that uncovered air filter is sucking in hot air from the engine bay, which ruins performance.

If you’re pulling the valve cover, buy new valve cover and do not mess with trying to make the old ones work. The amount of time involved is not worth a redo to adress a leaky valve cover.

That sounds like a normal 6.5.
Click to expand...
New cover? Wtf. Or gasket?
 
Fairline said:
New cover? Wtf. Or gasket?
Click to expand...
The covers are made of some mighty thin metal. They bend and easily distort.
If He still has them in stock, Leroy Diesel has girdle and stud kits for the rocker covers. If ever I pull the covers from My engine, i believe I will have that kit setting there before I start. Along with a set of new covers.
 
I've gone the bending route a couple times now and they always have some level of leak and it ain't because I'm a dumb monkey with a hammer. Leroy's girdle looks interesting, but I would have to hear from some with direct experience using it. I would still use brand new valve covers with the girdle and probably the gaskets too. In my experience, simply gluing them on with The Right Stuff has dubious success. The damn heads need attaching bolts on each side of the lower corners to get the required pressure to seal it up.
 
Big T said:
I've gone the bending route a couple times now and they always have some level of leak and it ain't because I'm a dumb monkey with a hammer. Leroy's girdle looks interesting, but I would have to hear from some with direct experience using it. I would still use brand new valve covers with the girdle and probably the gaskets too. In my experience, simply gluing them on with The Right Stuff has dubious success. The damn heads need attaching bolts on each side of the lower corners to get the required pressure to seal it up.
Click to expand...
And to Me, that is the route I would take. New covers, girdle/stud kit and gaskets.
Several times I have used the right stuff in areas of high leak probabilities and sure enough, even though the engine had not been started for several days, that crap washed out and leaked as bad as before. That mainly was on a 1988 Puick Century with a 2.8 V6, intake gasket, and, that is a real PIA to get removed, even after about three times within a year. I come to have a hate/love relationship with that car.
 
The old SBC chevys used a simple wing looking washer device under the rocker cover bolt heads. Those seemed to work quite well for not caving in the sheet metal around the bolt heads.
 
MrMarty51 said:
And to Me, that is the route I would take. New covers, girdle/stud kit and gaskets.
Several times I have used the right stuff in areas of high leak probabilities and sure enough, even though the engine had not been started for several days, that crap washed out and leaked as bad as before. That mainly was on a 1988 Puick Century with a 2.8 V6, intake gasket, and, that is a real PIA to get removed, even after about three times within a year. I come to have a hate/love relationship with that car.
Click to expand...

Well after initially declaring victory on my leak with a new valve cover, I am occasionally seeing a dime-sized spot. Not like the palm-sized puddle at every stop with smoke coming off the manifold, but still an occasional spot. Very frustrating as I spent over 8 hours doing the work, removing inner fender, turbo, intakes, and injector lines. Then scraping all gasket material off the heads and vacuuming the particles out. Replacing the two valve retainer buttons that were older. Putting it all back together and torquing everything properly. My hands were knicked up and aching.
 
Have 1 point on drivers side it leaks a tiny bit. Started after internal cleaning stuff. (QMI internal engine cleaning)
And changed oil 3 times.
But used the wrong oil. It's for diesel but 10w40 grade.
 
Big T said:
Well after initially declaring victory on my leak with a new valve cover, I am occasionally seeing a dime-sized spot. Not like the palm-sized puddle at every stop with smoke coming off the manifold, but still an occasional spot. Very frustrating as I spent over 8 hours doing the work, removing inner fender, turbo, intakes, and injector lines. Then scraping all gasket material off the heads and vacuuming the particles out. Replacing the two valve retainer buttons that were older. Putting it all back together and torquing everything properly. My hands were knicked up and aching.
Click to expand...

The dome-sized oil spots seem to be sporadic. They could be residual from my drenching the oil plume on the engine block and starter with brake cleaner as they seem quite thinner than the old oil apots.
 
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