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You can always try pypassing the balance module and seeing if it will read then.
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You can always try pypassing the balance module and seeing if it will read then.
Thats what I want to try to do. Do you know which wire goes from the balance module to the ecm that I need to hook to?You can always try pypassing the balance module and seeing if it will read then.
Ok I do have a purple wiring at the balance module. I'll hook it to my blue/black wire and see if it reads.Not off the top of my head I don't. Its normally a purple or purple with white stripe for the fuel gauge. I ordered a disk last week thats supposed to cover 98-05, when it comes in I can check it to see if it's in there.
Ok thank you so much I’ll get something firgured outAll this said, you may have a pcm problem. You can try removing the purple wire from connector 1 pin 9 at the pcm and make sure the actual guage is working. With the wire not connected to anything, turn the key on, and it should go to roughly 3 o clock, ground it and it should read empty, and 88 ohms should make it read full. If that is working, then I know 2 workarounds to get you going again. You can use the fuel gauge module from a 97 4 cylinder s-10, or speedway motors sells a fuel gauge anti slosh/adapter module that will convert your 40-250 ohm sender to the 0-90 ohm gauge.
Ok it has to be the pcm. Has a new fuel pump and it dies the same thing as the old one. Also a new gauge cluster and I still have the same problemI'm working on trying to figure out how to save files and images for it. It works in a virtual machine program that takes over my laptop while its running. It says it should work if you connect a single sender to the purple with white stripe wire. If it doesnt you either have a wiring issue, bad gauge, or bad pcm. I'm trying to save the diagnostic flow chart for you, but you will need a gauge simulator, or something to vary resistance and simulate the sender to do it. You need something to do 0-90 ohms for the gauge, and 40-250 ohms for the senders.
You really need to check the wiring and such before condemning the pcm. Yes, the fuel circuits do fail quite often(my new to me 99 tahoe has a bad fuel driver in the pcm), but they don't normally quit working, they notmally give the buzzing needle. Try checking the pcm to fuel gauge wire like I posted above to see if that wiring is good. Next I would unplug the balance module and see if you have 5 volts on the grey wire then see what you have on the purple with white stripe. Another thing you can try is to connect the 2 sending unit inputs at the balance module together and see if it will work(light blue and dark blue with white stripe).Ok it has to be the pcm. Has a new fuel pump and it dies the same thing as the old one. Also a new gauge cluster and I still have the same problem
I do have a buzzing needle sometimes. Could that point at anything? It does it very rarelyYou really need to check the wiring and such before condemning the pcm. Yes, the fuel circuits do fail quite often(my new to me 99 tahoe has a bad fuel driver in the pcm), but they don't normally quit working, they notmally give the buzzing needle. Try checking the pcm to fuel gauge wire like I posted above to see if that wiring is good. Next I would unplug the balance module and see if you have 5 volts on the grey wire then see what you have on the purple with white stripe. Another thing you can try is to connect the 2 sending unit inputs at the balance module together and see if it will work(light blue and dark blue with white stripe).
The buzzing needle is about the only failure you see on them.I do have a buzzing needle sometimes. Could that point at anything? It does it very rarely
Ok, tomorrow afternoon I get a meter and test the wires like you mentioned and let you know what I've got.The buzzing needle is about the only failure you see on them.