1996 Intercooled 6.5 diesel intermittent low power towing

[Mikehammond]

Limp mode can be from overboost, high IAT, high ECT. Lack of fuel pressure can do this including bad OPS or lift pump. High RPM returns a lot of fuel so a WOT snap in park is useful to watch fuel PSI from the water drain.

My avatar pic to the left and starting at post #8 is 'I am not totally worthless I can always serve as a bad example!" of what happens when worn out injectors turn the engine into scrap metal. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5-carnage.39865/

Not that it is or isn't your problem, but, I suggest you get a new set of injectors NOW!!! Avoid SS Diesel supply and Ebay for them.

For towing turbo info keep in mind my huge turbo doesn't light up till you are past 2000 RPM. Yet with a trailer it pulls a grade like a freight train. In Depth: http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

Right on man thx for the heads up, and the links! I will most definitely pull my injectors and have them cleaned and bench tested. If they are shot, what replacement would you guys recommend. Or should I just stick with oem replacements?

 

[Mikehammond]

Also you seem to be avoiding the idea of the tank sock plugging. This is a very common occurrence. When you fill the tank it basically washes off some dirt and it will run better for a while.

I don't mean to sound like I'm avoiding the idea of it. Right now my truck is in storage for the winter with a full tank. I'm running into a slow down at work here soon so I am thinking of moving it into my garage and tearing into it a bit. I guess I'm just avoiding that idea at the moment because I'm not sure how I'm going to drain 120 litres of fuel in my garage hahaha! So I was basically going to try some other things first. would syphening the tank be the best idea

 

[ak diesel driver]

The fuel pressure gauge will narrow things down

 

[Will L.]

I can't copy the link for some reason. Google -lisle 20300. That's an example of a low cost one. It's intended for diagnostic test, so not threaded fittings out the rear for permanent install.

A fuel pressure gauge alone is ok: but 0 psi means you are missing some fuel supply. A vacuum reading means your beating the crud out of the ip via cavitation.

About the tank sock- yes, just siphon it out then just drop the tank and chuck the sock. Or if you have a couple friends to help, lift the side of the bed and do it from the top. Install a prefilter just before the lift pump. No more concerns for the future.

 

[WarWagon]

The fuel pressure gauge will narrow things down

EXACTLY! Don't tear into things without testing. You can make things worse if you don't know what you are going after.

Stanadyne shops are a good place to get rebuilt injectors.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

EXACTLY! Don't tear into things without testing. You can make things worse if you don't know what you are going after.

Stanadyne shops are a good place to get rebuilt injectors.

Pretty sure unique diesel(one of our site vendors) can get quality injectors as well. Injectors are a maintence item. They can work perfectly fine right up until one hangs and burns a piston. 75-100k miles is the reccomended service interval on them.

 

[Mikehammond]

Pretty sure unique diesel(one of our site vendors) can get quality injectors as well. Injectors are a maintence item. They can work perfectly fine right up until one hangs and burns a piston. 75-100k miles is the reccomended service interval on them.

I'm at 93000 miles. So I'm very glad you guys have helped me with this. Thanx a lot!