• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

1996 6.5 troubles

manlystanly said:
You guys have all been great, and thanks to GM Guy for suggesting I visit the forum. As I said, this truck must be ready to push snow by tomorrow night/Friday morning, so this time around I'll have to bite the bullet and hope that the repairs the shop makes are worth the cost and get me going.
After all I've been through with this truck I'm worried that after they fix the IP it'll be something else I have to replace. I still need to figure out why the truck only draws off the front tank so I'll be turning to you guys after I get her back and (hopefully) a good looooong plow shift in over the next few days.

By the way, is this a good site to sell trucks on? I think I may just try to sell it for what I've got in it after its fixed.
Click to expand...

Don't give up on the girl yet. Alot of us here know what it is like being behind the 8 ball, especialy with plow trucks. I have plowed for 20 years now and 6 with my 6.5 and this one I have is by far the best truck I have had yet for plowing. I have pushed more than I should at times and this thing just keeps wanting more.
I hope this shop fixes it for you, I really do.
We can get you through this for sure. Keep faith....
 
So Christmas Eve I picked up my truck, pretty much just in time to get the plow on and go to work. I was so thrilled to have a working dump truck...and then the engine light came on. Three hours into plowing it started losing power greatly, it would bog down when I gave too much fuel, and just started dying for evidently no reason. Took it back in on Monday, they just called me and said the ip needs replaced.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm thinking that theres something wrong with the truck to cause it to burn up these pumps. I guess its possible that the one they put on was faulty.

What do you think guys?
 
manlystanly said:
So Christmas Eve I picked up my truck, pretty much just in time to get the plow on and go to work. I was so thrilled to have a working dump truck...and then the engine light came on. Three hours into plowing it started losing power greatly, it would bog down when I gave too much fuel, and just started dying for evidently no reason. Took it back in on Monday, they just called me and said the ip needs replaced.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm thinking that theres something wrong with the truck to cause it to burn up these pumps. I guess its possible that the one they put on was faulty.

What do you think guys?
Click to expand...



OOOHHHH NO, They (any diesel repair shop) always say the pump......especially on a 6.5, nobody knows how to diagnose and repair them.....Unless their 6.5 specialists!

Can you pull it out or did they start the job already.....your better off HERE for diagnosis and get a wrench turner buddy for the nuts and bolts.....Maybe even a member here can hook up with you.

btfarm and jrsavoie are already asking where you are located!




I know it's hard to trust a bunch of strangers behind a computer screen.....but you really won't get any better advise/diagnostic info from any "Place" else.....(No pun intended)

If you can swing it.....get your rig out of there, get a wrench turner buddy and log back into "Thetruckstop.com"......Best bunch of guys and Missy on any forum!

I will not say I told you so.....But like already said....They better warranty that work!
 
No need to say it, I know I was told several times by you guys. The fact is, as I said before, I didn't have the time to pull it out and continue trying to work on it myself. The work is warranteed.

If the pump they installed wasn't faulty then what would cause it to fail so quickly. Or do you think it was definitely a faulty pump they installed?
 
I take it, it was running good when you brought it home?

What is the status on your PMD?

What was the story on the pump? Did they install a new in the box pump? Did they install a rebuilt? Did they rebuild yours?

Where is your original pump?
 
What condition is your fuel in? These trucks will defuel on almost any check engine light to "save" themselves. Its odd that it was fine after coming out of a heated shop for 3 hours then slowly 'dried up', sounds like bad fuel. IE..... water or too much bio-diesel if applicable.

Was the shop able to get the sending unit out to check the sock on the fuel pick up?? I would get them to go there if possible. That way they can clean the sock if needed or see if there is water in the tank.

Very curious to see what codes it is throwing also.
 
That's an awful big bite to take without doing any diagnostics first.

Are you getting fuel out the drain when jumpering the lift pump? If so then your sock is not plugged.

Run a quart to 1/2 gal of fuel out the drain into a clear jug - I use a gallon pickle jar - and let it sit for 20 minutes or longer. Check for water or anything else that might not look right.

Sometimes you can see stuff come out the drain without letting it sit.

If you are not getting fuel out the drain with the lift pump jumpered, disconnect the output side of the lift pump and run a hose to a container and jumper it again. If you are not getting fuel you have a problem with the lift pump or before.

Take the lift pump off and pump from one container to another. If the pump works, then odds are you have a sock or leaking fuel line issue. Either way it would be time to drop the tank and check it.

Do not just arbitrarily drop the tank to check the sock without doing any diagnostics.

625fireman said:
What condition is your fuel in? These trucks will defuel on almost any check engine light to "save" themselves. Its odd that it was fine after coming out of a heated shop for 3 hours then slowly 'dried up', sounds like bad fuel. IE..... water or too much bio-diesel if applicable.

Was the shop able to get the sending unit out to check the sock on the fuel pick up?? I would get them to go there if possible. That way they can clean the sock if needed or see if there is water in the tank.

Very curious to see what codes it is throwing also.
Click to expand...
 
If this shop did no diagnostics how could they possibly know it was the pump? Either time?

The first thing you have to do is diagnos the fuel system and PMD. Most times tthe vehicle will be fixed before you get past this stage.

manlystanly said:
No need to say it, I know I was told several times by you guys. The fact is, as I said before, I didn't have the time to pull it out and continue trying to work on it myself. The work is warranteed.

If the pump they installed wasn't faulty then what would cause it to fail so quickly. Or do you think it was definitely a faulty pump they installed?
Click to expand...
 
They said the code they got was for the IP, same code as last time when they replaced it. I don't know if they kept the original pump but I can check, and I believe it was a brand new pump they put on.
 
See if you can get the code numbers and check the DTC section. Sorry to keep harping this but these engines really like clean grounds. If they dont ground right it will through all kinds of codes.
 
I don't believe there is a specific code for the IP. There are codes related to the IP but they can be caused by other problems ie bad LP, grounds, snotty sock, fuel filter, air in the lines, etc
 
If it was a new pump then you should be able to get your old one. There shouldn't be a core charge on new pump.

Even if there is take it and have it checked and verify that it's the problem. If junk give it back, if not junk you can show them their wrong and make them pay you the labor back due to their mis-diagnosis.That way you might be able to atleast get the labor back.

I believe you will continue to relive this nightmare over and over until the true problem is resolved. And it's already gotten costly. You are entitled to all parts replaced if you ask. Good luck and may this be over soon for you so you can enjoy your truck.
 
This ground thing everyone talks about is important. I have gone to the trouble of adding more ground wires for peace of mind. I went through the IP merry go round when it was replaced (3 times) by the dealer under warranty:skep:. Lucky me. The pump on it now has 70,000 miles on it and is OK. The fuel circuit to the IP is important as well. As noted, any restrictions, foreign matter or air leaks in it will cause issues.
 
Last edited:
X 2

You've been given good advice throughout this thread.

The best advice for your current situation is to take the old IP in to a n injection shop for testing or if it is not available have more diagnostics done before replacing the new pump. For sure have the take-off tested. And try a known good PMD and triple check you wiring.

I've had to replace 3 ignition switches - both Suburbans and the Tahoe. They produced varying similar symptoms

robzombie4551 said:
If it was a new pump then you should be able to get your old one. There shouldn't be a core charge on new pump.

Even if there is take it and have it checked and verify that it's the problem. If junk give it back, if not junk you can show them their wrong and make them pay you the labor back due to their mis-diagnosis.That way you might be able to atleast get the labor back.

I believe you will continue to relive this nightmare over and over until the true problem is resolved. And it's already gotten costly. You are entitled to all parts replaced if you ask. Good luck and may this be over soon for you so you can enjoy your truck.
Click to expand...
 
yep, went to pick it up on New Years Eve and she only made it about 5 miles from the shop. The guy up front seemed genuinely angry when I brought it back telling him it died like before and the check engine light came on. Why don't people know how to work on this truck??? This shop seemed like a bunch of real mechanics, or grease monkeys, that would really investigate. They didn't seem like they'd give me dealership service of ONLY being able to look at a code and completely replace that part and call it good. So, three times now they've had my truck and its still not fixed.
I will call them today and tell them about this great website I get on and they might want to take a look. I'll ask them if they've checked all the grounds and fuel lines, and if they aren't interested in doing some detective work then I'll have to pull it out of this shop.
Now I'm quite sure that although it threw "injector pump codes", they probably didn't have to replace the pump itself. They used remanufactured pumps btw.
 
Did the reman pumps each come with a new PMD? Or did they reuse your PMD each time?

Do they have access to any of the pumps?

The pumps could still be taken to an injection shop and tested. Even though we are all reasonably positive that is not your problem.

Given that they are a rebuilt pump you might want to have the pump cheacked by a real shop. Generic rebuilts aren't always the best.


Find out where your original pump is, demand that it be tested. It should have been tested off the truck before it was condemned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top