Pruittx2
Been around a bit
I'd make sure the door alignment is good,, on a nice truck do pins and bushings,, on a farm/beater use 2x4 under the door edge as far back as possible, put board on rocker and ground, and close door as much as possbile,, then lift board to jack up rear of door. Once pressure is on,, bounce it up a few times,, then check door for closure. Or us a 1/2 in drive 1in shallow impact socket, and put it in the hinge area,, and try to close the door slowly, till it binds,, then bounce on the door a bit towards the body. Both of these procedures will move only the rear of the door upward, tweaking the hinge, to make up for bad pins and bushings. when door close's good, it opens good, thus easing the pull too hard on inner handle and breaking it.
Also if you are having a handle pull all the way out before it release's the latch., then the rod that connects the inner handle to the latch has became stretched <--- well not really, but it does have a few bends in it,, that unbend a tad over time,, it looks like this
___
\___ <--- kinda So say where each bend is,, if you bent it a tad more, you have shortened up that rod. and makes the handle pull quicker.
This same theory works on tailgate handles on the rods between the handle and latch's. those also get stretched in time,, and you have to yank the piss out of the handle to get the gate open
Hope this helps,,,
Also if you are having a handle pull all the way out before it release's the latch., then the rod that connects the inner handle to the latch has became stretched <--- well not really, but it does have a few bends in it,, that unbend a tad over time,, it looks like this
___
\___ <--- kinda So say where each bend is,, if you bent it a tad more, you have shortened up that rod. and makes the handle pull quicker.
This same theory works on tailgate handles on the rods between the handle and latch's. those also get stretched in time,, and you have to yank the piss out of the handle to get the gate open
Hope this helps,,,