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1995 inside door handle adjustment?

WarWagon

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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What is the trick to the "late release" on the 1995 door handles? My 1995 Yukon had this issue even when new and had to be fixed by the dealer several times under warranty. Now my 1995 Suburban has the issue bad. The handle comes nearly to the end before the door latch releases. There isn't and adjustment that I can see. I bent the rod some and that helped for a bit.

I replaced the door latch with a new dealer latch and new door seals.

Helped some over the LMC truck latch, but, still having issues keeping it in adjustment. Just barley releases the latch to open the door with the handle at full pull after a week or two. You have to shove the door or roll down the window and use the outside handle to open the door.

It looks real :redneck: doing that...
 
my 95 GMC is the same way on the drivers side, and my 95 chevy (the HD) has a bad pass. side one.

the only true fix i have seen was when I saw a farmerized setup on a pickup on a farm auction. he did way better than most farmers do, he actually dis-assembled the handle assy and replaced the handle with his own welded steel unit. obviously I couldnt tear the door apart, so IDK all the engineering it took to put it in the housing.
 
drudgin up/ updating this thread.

the late release finally gave up and the handle broke off. (a long time ago) I rednecked it this summer, but would like to fix it.

I cant find a replacement thread. I got the door panel off and would like to replace the door handle as OEM as possible (even rivet recommendations to put it back together) (yes, OCD takes hold)

any input appreciated, thanks!
 
The handle itself bends over time and that lengthens or extends the point where the handle finally trips the latch. I simply replaced the handle on the '95 to solve it. They're cheap and easy to replace. Eventually they will break due to the extra pulling one does to get the door to unlatch. Then you're forced to replace.
 
yeah, I bought a new handle. (50 some odd bucks at the local GM dealer, in stock!) I just cant find a replacement thread. do i pull the black inner door panel? what size bit to drill rivets? what size rivets to replace it? (I know we have a rivet gun at the idaho place.)
 
Once the door panel is off there is one small bolt that need to be removed IIRC. Then the handle assembly drops downward.
 
The new door handle solved my issue - they bend before breaking as said above. I used a bolt instead of a rivet. Looks like it is a common failure point so a bolt is a better choice.
 
No need to drill rivets. As noted, just pull the door panel, one bolt and it drops out.

I have a fairly new handle on the wrecked '95 I'll sell for $15 plus shipping. I installed it about 24k miles ago. Let me know.
 
Big T, drivers or passenger? GM or aftermarket? also, how are the two screws and clip nuts for the armrest? they stripped mine out and put some big uglies in there. maybe armrest too. we can figure something out on a package deal I am sure.

Leo (NVW) you meant the plastic door panel, not the inner black metal one, correct? so just pop the plastic one off, drop a bolt, handle tips out, pop rods off, pop in new one, bolt in and go? sounds alot better! I could have sworn that thing was riveted in.

thanks for all the input folks.
 
I just did it a couple months ago but can't remember exactly. As far as I can remember, the panel pops off of the pins, mine already had a bolt so it my have been done before.

It either drops down or forward, I can't remember. Maybe up or back.:)
 
GM Guy said:
Big T, drivers or passenger? GM or aftermarket? also, how are the two screws and clip nuts for the armrest? they stripped mine out and put some big uglies in there. maybe armrest too. we can figure something out on a package deal I am sure.

Leo (NVW) you meant the plastic door panel, not the inner black metal one, correct? so just pop the plastic one off, drop a bolt, handle tips out, pop rods off, pop in new one, bolt in and go? sounds alot better! I could have sworn that thing was riveted in.

thanks for all the input folks.
Click to expand...

Driver's side. It was purchased from Autopartswarehouse.com. There is no difference in quality. The whole panel is intact, arm rest screws and clips, etc.
 
well, mine was still riveted. A minute or two with the hammer and chisel took care of that.
should have used the cutoff wheel, as I had fun digging the rivet out of the door panel.

I fell there isnt enough meat there to bite a self tapping screw, and fishing a nut up the back isnt too great either. So, I went to town and bought a rivet (and a testlight. now maybe I will find dad's, as thats allways how that works!) and some other hardware I needed.

taking this apart isnt nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be, so I wont mind rivets.

big t, is the armrest and screws and clip nuts for sale seperately? is your passenger door handle still GM?
 
GM Guy said:
big t, is the armrest and screws and clip nuts for sale seperately? is your passenger door handle still GM?
Click to expand...

I don't think the arm rest separates from the door panel. The passenger door handle is original; the driver's door handle is the only one that was replaced. But let's be serious, you're talking about a cast metal part. Other than price, there is no material difference between what GM sells for handles and what you can get for aftermarket handles. This is not like comparing a forged crank with a cast Chinese crank.

I was looking at the front inside handles on my '99 as I drove it over the weekend. The driver's side is definitely bent and sticking out farther than the passenger side. So I'll be due for changing this out.
 
ok, I'll let you keep that one for your 99, provided it matches. (I already own a new GM one, so no real need on my part)

also, I just had a realization, the armrest seperates on hand crank door panels, but not power window door panels, so now I am wondering if the screws even work.



so, I have a new problem. what to do about the screws holding the "cassette" to the door? the black inner assembly that houses the window crank and door handle is screwed to the base door frame.

there is like 5 screws across the top, 3 of which have a clip in nut for the screw to thread into. the outer two screws go into bare sheetmetal, and the rearmost (upper left staring at it) one is stripped out.

what should I do for repair? would it be best to find another clip in nut and just bore the hole out to the same dimensions as the other holes allready containing clip in nuts? or should I pack some JB weld in there?

I also lost the clip for the window crank (lost it once, but found it, and lost it again trying to put it back into the handle) so I am thinking with some of the yards around here, I might try to go to a yard, find a grey interior hand crank 95-00 truck, and gut everything i need.
 
You should be able to find replacement door handle clips, clip in nuts, etc, at any auto parts stores.

Don
 
100_1480.jpg100_1476.jpg

second pic is the door panel, the last screw before it curves it the stripped one.

first pic is the screw that all holes have, and the clip nut is what some of the holes have. would everyone recommend boring out the stripped hole to accept the clip nut? any reason not to?

thanks.
 
Just replaced one of these handles yesterday, 11.95 at Napa. The old feed wagon I was replacing them on has nuts welded on the back of the panel and we use bolts not rivets. We welded the nuts on 2-3 yrs ago. The cowboy averages 4 driverside handles and 1 pass side per yr. I'm doing oil cooler lines at the moment.

He was adding 2qt of 20w50 JD oil per day for 3 months. CAN YOU SAY OILY SOB! His normal case of beer and $50 is gonna have to be upped to 2 cases and he might not be able skimp by with keystone this time lol. Maybe I'll have him get me a new bottle of Baily's for my morning coffee.

On the feed truck I lift the door up so the body lines match and the handles seem to last longer.
 
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