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1995 2500 brake system upgrades

Slim Shady

DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR
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Well I have had four wheel disk brakes on my truck since 2010, the Eldorado calipers with parking brake. I didn't change the proportiong valve and have been reasonably happy with how it stops. BUT yeah couldn't leave it well enough alone. So the quest for an easy upgrade to improve the over all braking ability and feel.

I ended up with a new master cylinder off of a P30 four wheel disk brake chassis and no other modifications. So now my 80 mm front calipers and my 70 mm calipers stop with much more definition than ever before, Pedal feel is a little stiffer but not by much. The stopping ability has dramatically improved.

Old master cylinder was a quick take up style, new master cylinder is a 34 mm bore with even bores in the primary and secondary bore. The original lines were not modified just moved to accomidate the new configuration. Master cylinder is cast iron with a cast aluminum resivoir.

This combination on my truck required a 70 thousandths space between the hydro boost unit and the master cylinder to get the correct acutating rod length. This is just a modification I made to my vehicle I in no way imply that anyone should modify their brake system in the same manner I have done. If you do you do so at your own risk.

Master cylinder used was a cordone 10-1668,
 
I have a spacer that came on some factory app, been saving it back for a future project.
 
It has been one of the simplest and less costly upgrades to make the four wheel disk operate like a factory set up. I have been really happy with it.
 
Details?

I did a 4 wheel disc conversion on my old 70 Chevy 4x4. The fronts were off a 73 truck, corvette MC & PV. Used a custom bracket for the rears and the Eldorado calipers too. Those calipers are pretty expensive now $150ish ea plus core. I had one go bad and just replaced it with a front caliper (same just no park brake).
 
For those that don't want to go through the trouble of a 4 wheel disk conversion the next best thing is a set of good semi metallic pads and shoes. The good rear shoes, better than factory, will cost over $100 a set. (Wagner or Raybestos) The ~$30.00 shoe set isn't worth the time to put on. Then every other oil change block the front wheels and tighten the rears up till they drag slightly. Doing this was a cashflow choice for me at the time. Since then they work well enough that I can't justify going 4 wheel disk now.

Suburbans need an updated proportioning valve.
 
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