• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

1994 clutch slave cylinder issue

jrsavoie

Recruit
Messages
9,770
Reaction score
8,498
Location
Rural Clifton, Illinois
1994 K3500 NV4500

I wasn't feeling great and had a kid take the starter off the 1994 6.5 diesel.

He was having trouble getting the starter out and took the slave cylinder loose.
I just went to start it for the first time since. The hydraulic clutch pedal is rock hard and will not depress. It doesn't move at all.

Any words of wisdom?
Detailed instructions?
 
He never loosened the line. Just the clutch itself. So there shouldn't be any air in it.
He loosened the slave cylinder and pulled it back.

Then tightened the 2 studs back up.

It's been a long time since I installed the transmission, I don't remember much about installing the slave cylinder.
 
just pulling the slave can result in the rock hard pedal you're describing. For whatever reason when it's out hanging and has no pressure on the rod it locks up. Air seemingly can get in without fluid getting out

Slave needs to be bled. What I do with it in the truck like that is remove the cap on the master and climb under, unbolt the slave and basically pump the rod by pressing against the crossover pipe or part of the transmission. Do it for a good minute and after the last time you press it in quickly put it back in place on the bellhousing making sure the rod lines up with the bottom of the clutch fork
 
just pulling the slave can result in the rock hard pedal you're describing. For whatever reason when it's out hanging and has no pressure on the rod it locks up. Air seemingly can get in without fluid getting out

Slave needs to be bled. What I do with it in the truck like that is remove the cap on the master and climb under, unbolt the slave and basically pump the rod by pressing against the crossover pipe or part of the transmission. Do it for a good minute and after the last time you press it in quickly put it back in place on the bellhousing making sure the rod lines up with the bottom of the clutch fork
Thanks. I'm not sure how to accomplish the pumping with it hooked to the hard line. Not sure how much flex I have.

Finally getting ready to give it a go.
Hope the vertigo doesn't gete too bad.
Paying someone to remove the starter didn't work out well.
.Guess I'll just have to do it.
It is kind of neat when the truck is spinning up above. Reminds me of an old movie when they do the spin thing.
 
you should have enough play in the hard line, don't worry about it getting bent a little bit. It can take a joke.

RockAuto sells a flexible stainless steel clutch line. Highly recommend. Makes re-installation of any component in the system way easier
 
says it's out of stock on RA, but googling the part number could show if it's available elsewhere

Thanks again.

I couldn't get the slave cylinder rod to push in. I'm not very strong.

I made a bracket to pull the rod in with the mounting studs
Once it was pulled in, it loosened up and I was able to pull it in with grips when mounting to get the nuts on.
It's working fine again now.

Now I'm having issues with the 70 amp starter relay, I installed, not engaging.
I'm perplexed. I pulled the relay and tested it with jumper wires. You can hear& feel it click. There's 12 volts coming out as it should with everything jumpered.

I plugged it back in the socket, all but an 1/8" or so.
Checked for voltage and ground. By touching the bit of the spades that I could get to.
Everything looked good.
With the key turned to start, there's 12 volts at the trigger wire, but no voltage at the exciter wire going to the starter.

Everything seems as it was when we had the relay sitting on the battery jumpering it.

The only thing I can think is either the ground or the exciter wire isn't carrying enough amps to trigger the relay.

Not positive how to test that.
 
I'm not sure if this uses the same relay. Looks easy to install.
 
Back
Top