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1993 6.2 (599 casting), need advice, I searched to no avail.

83GMCK2500

83GMCK2500

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I am tinkering on my boss' new (to him) 1993 Chevrolet Cheyenne K2500. It has 170k miles on a 6.2L N/A, 4L80-E, NP241. It runs GREAT, it starts right up as soon as the Glow light goes out, it is an ex-Fire Dept. truck and seems to have seen regular maintenance. Reverse is out in the transmission, even in 4Lo it laughs at R. I will be swapping a 4L80-E in from a '95. It is a GM Goodwrench Reman trans with low miles, I have a filter kit for it as well as front pump seal and shifter shaft seal. I had to open it up and swap the long shifter shaft out and the shorter one from the original transmission in. I have the trans and t-case out of the truck right now, here's what I've done so far:

New radiator, old one was split.
New tcase output shaft seal and bushing/sleeve.
Swapped shifter shaft, seals, etc.
Lots of cleaning...

When I pulled the transmission I found a rather wet block. There has been a considerable oil leak from the back of the engine, the bottom of the cab is well preserved. What all is involved in a rear main seal replacement? From what I read it is a one-piece, I searched and I can't find diddly on here about replacing one. As far into this as I am, what all should I look at/into replacing? It isn't going to be much more effort to pull the motor at this point, if I do, what all should I check out? I can get some pics up, hopefully tomorrow, otherwise Sunday.

Thank you for the help guys (& Missy)
 
Rear seal is easy 599 is one piece. There is a special tool to install it, but I don't have it, just push the new one back in till its where to old one was.
As far as trans swap, the connector may be different. Get the new style if needed and smear some black RTV on the trans side of the connector where wires pass through. If you reuse old harness clean it real good with brake cleaner then RTV it.
 
Yeah, I have wiring figured out, I've got the pigtail off of the '95 truck, going to wire the '93 truck to the new style. Thank you Leroy.

I haven't zipped the flexplate off yet, does the seal slip off over the crankshaft? I can't visualize what the back of the engine looks like. :/
 
yep it just slides over the rear of the crank. while you are there i would replace the oil filter adapter seals. leroy sells what you need. would be a lot easier with the tranny out. so would oil cooler lines if he wants to spring for them as well
 
Ok, with so little left to do, we pulled the motor. Now I can go all the way around it. Going to re-seal: front cover, oil pan, fuel pump block-off, oil pump drive/tach thingy (WTH is that thing called?), FR/RR main seals, valve covers... What else should I do with the motor out and on a stand?
 
The 1993 trans uses a different TCC solenoid than the later years. I recall the line pressure solenoid could also be different among years.

The oil drive is an RPM sensor for the trans computer.

With the engine out you may as well put new gapless rings in it and deglaze the cylinders. It will help blowby.
Rebuilt injectors and duraterm glowplugs while you are there.
Head studs and new head gaskets.

You sure the cam plug wasn't the source of the oil leak? OPS also covers the back of the engine...
 
All gaskets/seals but head gaskets done. I was not allowed to pull the critical parts (i.e. pistons for rings)

Replaced oil pump, water pump, couple glow plugs, fuel lines to/from filter & IP. Cleaned the crap outta everything, painted it... Back in, waiting on oil cooler lines and the two little black o-rings for the oil filter adapter center bolt.
 
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