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1992 6.5 projectish.....

Looking at the directions for the studs they recommend their "tap/thread chaser" its $50 on Amazon. [emoji33] would a regular tap work? My buddy has a huge tap and die set.

Also which bolt holes go in water jackets for sealant purposes? Or just seal them all?
 
If you use a tap, just be more patient with it. More foreward/reverse/foreward/reverse than you would just a chaser. Maybe 40 times per hole instead of 20.

I do sealant on all of them so torque is same. And no worries of “OH no, did I do that hole” issues. “Sealant” on arp is blue loctite for me.
 
I wanted to clear the holes for the glow plugs om My 2000. I had ordered a tap, while waiting for the tap to get here, I decided a tap was not what I wanted to use as it would remove metal threads. I went to NAPA, spent the 40 bucks and got a 10mm spark plug thread chaser, glad I did not use a tap.
 
Here it is on the stand. There was tons of mouse nest in the valley and all kinds of nasty. Took a screw driver and my shop vac and scraped and suck up all the nasty I could. Got the intake off and there was a lot of fuel from the leaking ffm so that will have to be cleaned out as well. Once I send Leroy a couple paychecks then ill really start tearing it apart so I have parts to put back on. Also a casting # pic.
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Will L. said:
If you use a tap, just be more patient with it. More foreward/reverse/foreward/reverse than you would just a chaser. Maybe 40 times per hole instead of 20.

I do sealant on all of them so torque is same. And no worries of “OH no, did I do that hole” issues. “Sealant” on arp is blue loctite for me.
Click to expand...

ARP Red or blue (I have used both) and then torque the studs into the block. One engine was 'double nut lockup' tight as I could get them and the other on the Allen wrench. I have disagreed with ARP's install instructions and they have changed over the years. I have not had any leaks including eating FOD. I have had the heads off 3 times on one engine not related to the ARP's or HG's.

Put the head gasket on first then start putting the studs in.
 
WarWagon said:
ARP Red or blue (I have used both) and then torque the studs into the block. One engine was 'double nut lockup' tight as I could get them and the other on the Allen wrench. I have disagreed with ARP's install instructions and they have changed over the years. I have not had any leaks including eating FOD. I have had the heads off 3 times on one engine not related to the ARP's or HG's.

Put the head gasket on first then start putting the studs in.
Click to expand...
This? Or regular loctite brand?
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I know the big issue is cooling for these engines and the newer water pumps help with that. Is it possible to put a temp sensor in the back of the head by #8 to keep an even closer eye, or is it not necessarily important? If so I would put in a separate gauge.
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NO!! The arp sealant is crap. It barely works on normal engines, and half the time fails on 6.5s.

Keep in mind ARP NEVER tested the 6.2/6.5 platform. They make studs from other engines that happen to
Fit. Wet holes are not unusual, but the 6.5 design for wet holes is worse than normal.

Yes, you can put thermo gauge into that hole. But you need to relocate the current sensor somewhere else.

And Really-get rid of the unbalance 4 bolt waterpump.
Then the temp difference to that head is only 1-2 degree difference at worst after that.
 
Will L. said:
NO!! The arp sealant is crap. It barely works on normal engines, and half the time fails on 6.5s.

Keep in mind ARP NEVER tested the 6.2/6.5 platform. They make studs from other engines that happen to
Fit. Wet holes are not unusual, but the 6.5 design for wet holes is worse than normal.

Yes, you can put thermo gauge into that hole. But you need to relocate the current sensor somewhere else.

And Really-get rid of the unbalance 4 bolt waterpump.
Then the temp difference to that head is only 1-2 degree difference at worst after that.
Click to expand...
Will do on the sealant. Thanks. :)
Will be ordering a kit from Leroy for the waterpump, fan and clutch. :)

For the sensor I was thinking of having both the factory and the second in the back of the head. But it seems like it wont be necessary. :)
 
"Loctite brand". I have read were members have gone to extremes like O ringing the head bolt holes at the fastener to stop coolant leaks. I have read where the ARP stuff doesn't work. So to prevent problems I went with red (out of funds on the build and it was all I had) and then blue on the next engine. Loctite works period.

@Will L. said it best as to why online instructions are better than ARP's...
 
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