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1987 6.2 diesel rebuild

The longer run time before the oil needs replacing will pay for the cost and then some.

People ask me the biggest improvements inside a 6.5 engine. Top 3 in this order:

1. Balanced rotating assembly.
2. Ceramic bearings
3. Gapless rings

We’re all big boys and make decisions ourselves- but after gapping the ones you have, rethink it for a minute. That extra week of waiting and $100 is speak now or forever hold your peace kinda deal.
 
Your definitely right Will.The oil will stay cleaner for sure.I have a huge amount of money spent on both engines and I’m sure a lot of you guys are in the same boat as myself.For what it costs I know your right and once it’s assembled there’s no turning back after that.
 
I had a little look at the invoice last night when I received everything on the pallet and it appears the crank was machined to accept .010” rod and main bearings so that’s pretty acceptable.Pictures to be uploaded soon.
 
dieselolds said:
I had a little look at the invoice last night when I received everything on the pallet and it appears the crank was machined to accept .010” rod and main bearings so that’s pretty acceptable.Pictures to be uploaded soon.
Click to expand...
It is spoken that the cranks for the 6.2 and 6.5 has to have a hardening coating embedded into the surfaces. Thats why they say to not ever turn one of those crankshafts unless the machine shop has the equipment and knowledge to nitride those surfaces.
Is the 5.7 diesel cranking shaft the same ?
 
Your definitely right Marty.I doubt the surface was treated after the shop did what they had to do.At most it was probably just polished after they machined the journals.I’m happy though I bought rod bolts from Leroy diesel.I don’t see any listed on his website now.They are probably sold out.

The 5.7 crank I have is also a 010/010 as well now.I dont think the olds diesel cranks were ever nitride treated.Another shop did the machine work on that one recently along with the pencil injector cylinder heads.The 5.7 olds was bored .030,etc and no align hone was needed after the arp main studs were in place.

Basically I have two engines that need to be reassembled.I guess when I have some free time to spare I’ll begin doing that.With 3 children under 10 to take care of along with work I have very little time on my hands to do anything…..lol.
 
I was thinking of buying some Lucas SAE 30 break-in oil from Amazon for both engines.I realize these aren’t flat tappet lifter engines but I’ve read good things about this oil.Have any of you guys used this oil during the break in period?Thanks guys.
 
dieselolds said:
Lucas SAE 30 break-in oil
Click to expand...

I DO NOT TRUST Amazon for filters or anything else critical as it may be a knock-off and they don't GAF. Even Rock Auto has proven to be trouble to get warranty on items damaged from a part failure. If what you buy takes out your engine, ask @Will L. , think of how it's not covered.

Local parts store replaced the entire power steering system, hydro booster, box, and hoses when one of their PS pumps glitter bombed the system in 30 min from out of the box. They didn't even have to make a phone call to hand me everything even though I only got a PS pump for that vehicle.

I used the Lucas Engine Break-In Oil Additive - TB Zinc Plus and can assure you it has plenty of zinc in it. The oil lab commented that it shouldn't even be on the road with that much zinc in it... Forgetting the vehicle in question didn't have cats on it from the factory.
 
Your right war wagon.Definitely quite a few knockoffs going around.I did buy two spin on wix fuel filters from Amazon that came in older wix boxes.They do look genuine but anything is possible.
 
Correct- don’t get critical components from a place /person you don’t trust.
Notice I don’t recommend Bosch glow plugs anymore? Because I never got verification if mine that ate my piston was real or fake but they said they couldn’t tell without doing the metallurgy test- but they did have fakes they knew of, so… no more online stuff.

AC Delco was in huge mess over it also.
 
EWC said:
Mine took 4 slugs of heavy metal to balance . That was also with a new GM balancer . Kinda brings up the need for the FD balancer . If the balance is within the realm of the stock balancer , do you really need the FD ?
Click to expand...
If the block is not cracked, even on a freshly balanced rotating assembly, I would not take a chance. If that GM balancer slips off balance then the Money spent on balancing the rotating assembly is for naught.
I believe it takes a stock balancer for the shop to balance the rotating assembly then after they are finished then the FDampener can be installed.
At least I think thats how it works.
 
Just an update guys.Heading home tomorrow from work for 3 weeks so I should be able to show everyone the pictures of the 6.2 block,etc.
 
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