14 bolt drum brake tools

[Husker6.5]

I used pawn shops to build up the tool inventory for my old construction business. Knowing several of the local shop owners/managers and what the actual new and used prices were for things, was able to get many, many great bargains that way. Compressors, nailers, miter saws, circular saws, cordless drills/kits, etc.

 

[Husker6.5]

That's what estate auctions are for. I have several tools from auctions. I even bought my own saw blades back at. An auction. I knew they were mine, because they had my name on them. And there was some butthead bidding against me. Never saw who it was.

So that begs the question of how your tools wound up at somebody else's Estate Auction?

 

[jrsavoie]

So that begs the question of how your tools wound up at somebody else's Estate Auction?

He had the saw blades to sharpen. He was an awesome shot. He used to market hunt west of town before they drained the swamp. He had a statue of Liberty in his basement that he shot free hand with a .22 . It was about 2 ft tall.

Had the same thing happen to a battery charger, I took to a different local for repair. A friend of mine told me it sold for good money at Bobs sale. I didn't even know Bob died. I wad traveling and only home on some weekends at the time

 

[Jaryd]

I learned as a young pup- determine what you need and get it. Buy once cry once (already posted that twice today, haha).
How much money does it cost “getting by” with a not quite right tool when it slips, cuts you hand and severs a tendon? Even if not you when the make shift tool damages the item you’re working on and costs a hundred extra in parts.

Once I was on the job the cost was a no brainer. Get more chrome, make more money, get more chrome...

If your not going to do many rigs with them- craftsman or harbor freight. Just be careful

Thats the way I looked at it this time. Spend the money on a couple tools so I spend less time replacing everything and especially the aggravation of using whatever I could find to use on the springs. I’ve busted my knuckles to many times because I wanted to cheap out and not use the right tools for the job.




What the crap was GM thinking when they designed the front rotor/hub assembly. I have never had to take off the wheel bearing and beat the wheel studs out just to change a rotor. I only had time to do the front rotors and pads last night. I guess I’m going to have to wait to replace the shoes and wheel cylinders when I get back from the lake next week.

 

[Jaryd]

For the anchor pin springs, most the time I just use a smalle pliers for pressing the spring and turning the retainer. Dont really need the that screw driver looking spring tool
The brake pliers though, they are a real time saver. I have shanged out BSs without that tool, using a side cutter and brute force, it works but it shore aint handy. LOLOLOL

In the past I used pliers and screwdrivers and fought with the springs and cussed a bunch. I have the right tools for the rear brakes now so I’ll see if there is any less cussing involved.

 

[Husker6.5]

Thats the way I looked at it this time. Spend the money on a couple tools so I spend less time replacing everything and especially the aggravation of using whatever I could find to use on the springs. I’ve busted my knuckles to many times because I wanted to cheap out and not use the right tools for the job.




What the crap was GM thinking when they designed the front rotor/hub assembly. I have never had to take off the wheel bearing and beat the wheel studs out just to change a rotor. I only had time to do the front rotors and pads last night. I guess I’m going to have to wait to replace the shoes and wheel cylinders when I get back from the lake next week.

Remove the hub assembly and beat the studs out? Never had to do that for a rotor change. Just rotated until a stud lined up with the access hole, put my ball joint "C-clamp" press on and pressed the stud out through the hole, repeated seven more times. Installing studs almost as easy. Crank the steering wheel either full left or full right (depending on side) for clearance, insert stud through the access hole used for removal through the rotor and into the hub, put the ball joint press on flipped over from removal so the lead screw is against the stud from the back and pressed it in. Alternate method was put the stud in from behind, slip a shallow ¾" drive socket and a ⅝" ID washer over the stud, a dab of grease on the washer then run a lug nut down snug against the washer, then continue to tighten the lug nut until the stud has been drawn in tight against the hub flange. Either method works equally as good.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Bigger question is why can't they just "float" like most others do. I've considered reaming the holes

 

[Will L.]

I agree - should just float. Not like it’s hard to do.

 

[Jaryd]

I though the rotors in these trucks did float until I couldn’t get it to come off so I got out the factory service manual and it said to remove the rotor/hub assembly. Once I took the four bolts out that were holding the hub on it was easy to swap everything over.

 

[WarWagon]

I just bought 3 bottles of brake fluid so I can flush everything real good with my mighty vac.

Im installing the Raybestos wheel cylinders for a dually that Ferm suggested, rotors and Wagnor pads the WarWagon suggested.

Whats the best way to adjust the shoes once it’s back together. I’ve read several different ways to do it so I don’t know which one is best. Ive always adjusted them to where there is a tiny bit of drag when you spin the hub.

Block the front wheels and raise the rear end. I have help spin the wheels and then slowly click the adjuster till I hear a drag.

Readjust in 1000 miles on new shoes. Then every oil change 3000 miles. After about 10K I adjust every other oil change (6K) and not as tight. (Even with a steep driveway the adjusters don't work much.) The reason is to get the new shoes worn in and then they are ok after that.