06 3500 DRW Brakes

[BigDogYJ]

Well it seems that the PO of my truck may have worked the brakes pretty hard. when they get warm they start making noise and i can feel a pulsation in the pedal.
Im thinking the rotors are warped. not bad, but i can feel it if i have to get on them hard.
Is it worth trying to turn them, or should I just replace them with something like the SSBC big bite rotors?
I prefer to not have cross-drilled, but it doesn't seem like they have any other rotor for a DRW application. I haven't seen too many options for DRW.
anyone have any recommendations for brake rotors/pads? My last truck 2500 had 100k on original brakes and still had over half the pad left. I haven't looked at these yet, but they definitely feel like they need some help.
If the rain lets up, I may have a chance to pull the wheels and take a look at them. if pads are ok, Im thinking about turning the rotors, cleaning up the pads and greasing everything so it slides real nice.

 

[trouttrooper]

what noise are they making? At the very least pull the rotors and see if they can be turned. They may not have enough thickness left. Make sure the rear pads can slide easy enough. I had issues with my rear brakes, had to grind the little tabs on the pads so they could slide. They were the correct ones, but somebody's measurements must have been off by a hair. It prematurely wore the pad down and destroyed the rotors. It ended up making my front brakes work harder etc etc.

Clean them up and do a good job on greasing all the critical points. Should make a world of difference.

 

[BigDogYJ]

usually a squealing noise heard when slowing down from highway speeds.
I'm almost positive the rotors are warped. I forgot to mention before that it feels like the bed starts bouncing when I feel the pulsation in the pedal.

If they are not able to be turned, are there any aftermarket ones to go with or is stock my best bet?
Hopefully we get a break from the rain this weekend so i can take a look at them. Thanks for the tip on the grinding the ears, i will have to see if that's an issue on mine as well. I seem to remember reading something on the other place from HeyMccall about how to keep the GM brakes working like brand new. I'll have to see if I can find that thread again.
I'm supposed to tow my jeep (on trailer) up to the snow in 2 weeks. it would be great if i could resolve this before that trip. but we will see.

Thanks.

 

[blizzardplowman]

I used the parts master brand rotors w/ wagner surestop hd pads on mine after they froze up last winter, no complaints and less then $200 for the parts. Then I sold the truck after a sumers towing but hey

 

[Mad Maxx]

SSBC is good. I have them on my Truck and am very Happy with them.

I'm gonna give DBA a Shot with my Wrangler though. They have Heat Indicators on the Rotors so with just a Glance, you can See how Hot they are, which can Help you Diagnose a Stuck Caliper or other Problem.

 

[83GMCK2500]

There is an awesome brake maintenance write-up floating around, I think it's from HeyMcCall...? Anyone else remember where it is at?

 

[trouttrooper]

I actually got my rear pads and rotors replaced under warranty my second year of ownership because my rear rotors had literally crumbled apart. 2 1/2 years later things just weren't sounding right so I checked them in greater detail. I literally had to hammer the old pads (what was left of them) off the bracket and again my rotors had gotten so hot they were coming off in chunks. I went to put the new pads on and they wouldn't fit. I could get them on by hitting them, but once pressed against the rotor they would never be able to back off once the pedal is released. I'm positive that's what happened with the originals and with the replacements the dealership put on. They must have just pounded the pads onto the bracket and called it good (I was NOT impressed about the lack of intellect on that).

 

[saratoga]

I put all DuraStop Cmax(?) ceramic pads from Autozone on my 06 before I traded it last year. Pads, rotors, pins and bushings front and rear came to less than $300 and it stopped better than new. Flushed the fluid also. Firm pedal and no noise what so ever.

I was so irritated with the caliper rattle that I just decided to replace everything. One word of advice: make sure you've got an impact with cajones or a big breaker bar with a cheater to get the caliper bracket bolts off.

 

[btfarm]

. One word of advice: make sure you've got an impact with cajones or a big breaker bar with a cheater to get the caliper bracket bolts off.

24" breaker bar with 12-18" pipe is my suggestion. (worked for me).
When I bought the new pads for wife's '07 Tahoe they came with a real good writeup about the places that need to be smooth and lubed in the entire brake ass'y. Most I knew but there were a couple of surprises. Of course I shouldn't have had to do the brakes except for the bad GM factory install.:rolleyes5:

 

[BigDogYJ]

Thanks for the info guys. Looks like Sunday is supposed to be a chance of rain. So I am gonna have to take a chance and pull them apart then to see whats going on.

btw... Found the Article from HeyMaccall (hopefully its ok to link this) http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313310

(Note: I'm not taking credit for any of this, just a link to a thread that HeyMccall started. He seems to know his stuff when it comes to the maintenance of GM brakes)

thanks.

 

[btfarm]

That's a decent thread to work off of. I have had good luck using white waterproof grease as a brake parts lube for many years.

 

[Ed HD]

Few things: If you suspect a rotor of being warped, never turn it. Throw it in the steel pile and replace it. Rotors are heat-sinks, and turning them reduces their ability to shed heat. They'll warp that much quicker the next time.

If you go to the parts store, get the top-shelf brand rotors and pads. Those will last and be the best overall.

 

[BigDogYJ]

Few things: If you suspect a rotor of being warped, never turn it. Throw it in the steel pile and replace it. Rotors are heat-sinks, and turning them reduces their ability to shed heat. They'll warp that much quicker the next time.

If you go to the parts store, get the top-shelf brand rotors and pads. Those will last and be the best overall.

Thanks for the tip. I figured the regular pads and rotors would be fine. plus i can save some $$.

Well I pulled the wheels off today and found that the axle seals were leaking on both sides and looks like the gear oil made its way to the pads and rotors and the rotors look pretty funky. I didnt get pictures as it started to rain and I wanted to get it back together so I can drive it tomorrow.
I called up the parts store and they dont have the seals in stock yet. Later this week.
Which means I probably will have to tackle this job after I get back from my trip this weekend. So it looks like: pads, rotors, rear axle seals, rear axle flange gaskets.

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll update when I get this done. Maybe some pictures since I havent been able to find anything regarding the DRW axle seals.

 

[BigDogYJ]

06 3500 DRW Brakes and Axle Seals

Does anyone know if the Rear Axle Seals are different between the SRW and DRW?
I find all kinds of information on the 3500 SRW rear axle seals, but nothing for the DRW. I went to the parts store and they are not showing a differentiation between SRW and DRW for the part numbers.
Just want to make sure i get the right parts before I tear it apart again.
Thanks.