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04' LB7 transplant complete and now the rebuild begins: Updated build thread

I know what you mean

Yea, we had the same feeling when Paul decided on what he was going to do. But now that it is done, its alot less dreaded. It won't be long before I put it on the engine stand for us to find the problem of over fueling. More experience with a DMax. So far its been fun and edujumcational.:thumbsup:
 
***WARNING*** Teaser Post!

Bringing this thread back from the dead as the rebuild on the 01' is just beginning...

Will start off with some pics in my next post starting with the original damage and then the parts I've accrued...and some of the work completed...
 
pics from the tear down on 5-29-10
Well just when I thought I could budget this rebuild fairly easily with a couple more upgrades...Steve and I pulled the heads yesterday to start breaking down the block further and to start bring things to the machine shop...

more bad news...(taken from cell phone)
frown.gif
Photo0079.jpgPhoto0078.jpg

to recap...

the above damage occured on the way home from Suncoast's Dyno over a year before Steve and I finally tore down that engine...

I had one bad injector and one borderline bad when I made that trip to dyno the truck...along with the coolant system being pressurized...either a head gasket or injector cup was suspected...

belief at the time was that it bent or sheared the cam pin and injector timing was way off causing the truck to dump raw fuel out of the exhaust...

upon tear down we found that the tip of a glow plug broke/burned off (probably a stuck injector?) and bounced in between the valve and seat and created a hot(or weak)spot in the valve upon which the valve was burned through that point...not 100% sure but this seems to be the closest to an explanation as we could come up with...

other issues found were apparent HG leak as well as an injector cup that pulled out with two fingers after removing the hold down...it obviously was not sealed properly to begin with as the coolant system pressurization reared it's ugly head only months after having the head gaskets R&R at a prominent shop and ARP head studs installed at the same time...
 
Makes owing a 6.5 less painful over the early Dmax. Good call to use an 04 for a replacement.
 
here is the list of parts I've accrued so far... along with vendor used


Carillo Rods Creatures of the Night

Delipped Pistons --------------------performed by Dura-Ration(my friend Steve)*

*getting ready to be sent to Swain Tech to be ceramic(top) & moly(skirts) coated

ARP Head Studs [FONT=arial, helvetica]230-4201[/FONT] -----------------From 01' motor, but purchased from Ebay

ARP Main Studs 230-5401 ------------------ Underground Diesel on ebay

Rick Lance Downpipe ------------------------ Creatures of the Night

Rick Lance Cast Flow Exhaust Manifolds -------------Creatures of the Night

Rick Lance Up Pipes--------------------------- Creatures of the Night

Super Diesel Manifold --------------------------Creatures of the Night

Mahle Moly Rings ------------------------------ Web vendor

Clevite 77 Main bearings MS2218P---------------------- (rock auto)

Clevite 77 Rod Bearings CB1805p(8) -------------------- (rock auto)

Clevite 77 thrust Bearings TW610S ---------------------(rock auto)

GM Head gasket Right grade C GM 98030630 ---------------Creatures of the Night

GM Head gasket Left Grade C GM 98030633 --------------- Creatures of the Night

GM Fuel injector (8) Gm 97729095 ------------------------- Private seller

GM rod bolts gm 97226123 (16)-------------------------Creatures of the Night (for sale)

O rings rear of Block GM 94056175(2)----------------------- Creatures of the night

Turbo drain gasket lower GM 97208191---------------------- Creatures of the Night

Turbo drain gasket upper GM 97227012---------------------- Creatures of the Night

Upper Turbo oil line gasket GM 97256733---------------------- Creatures of the Night

GM flywheel bolts(8) GM 97226126 -----------------------------Creatures of the Night

Crank balancer bolt GM 97329601 -----------------------------Creatures of the Night

GM cam bolt GM 97329611------------------------------------ Creatures of the Night

GM intake bridge gasket(2) Gm 97251963 ----------------------- Creatures of the Night

Injector O-Rings GM 94051259 (16) ---------------------------- Creatures of the Night

OPRV o-ring Gm 94011695 --------------------------------------Creatures of the Night

Oil Pump pick up gasket GM 97207225--------------------------- Creatures of the Night

Oil Pump O-Ring GM 94011609 --------------------------------- Creatures of the Night

Upper ByPass O-Ring GM 94011602 -----------------------------Creatures of the Night

Lower ByPass O-Ring GM 94011603 ---------------------------- Creatures of the Night

Water pump O-ring GM 94013304 --------------------------------Creatures of the Night

Upper radiator pipe o-ring GM 94011604------------------------- Creatures of the Night

Heater Pipe O-ring GM 94011605 ------------------------------- Creatures of the Night

Gm coolant tank GM 15808714----------------------------------- amazon.com

Gm gray sealer GM 88861417 -------------------------------------Creatures of the Night

GLOW PLUG Gm 97226202 (8)-------------------------------------- rock Auto

GM Front main seal GM # 97209341 -------------------------------(rock auto)

Gm rear main seal GM 97209342 ------------------------------------ Creatures of the Night

replacement head Private seller
===================================
left to do/buy:
===================================
Machine work
Balance rotating assembly
align hone mains
Key Cam
Key Crank
Key Oil pump
Rebuild & Port match Heads (work to be done by VWLupoTD)
Send out the new injectors out to be opened up 30% larger
Cp3 upgrade kit (Industrial Injection or Wicked Diesel) or use LBZ CP3 & kit
Shim Fuel pressure rail
open up CP3 fuel inlet (bore)
Electric inline Water pump(for easy replacement and durability) then plug, gut and Dummy up Factory water pump to flow through status

I Will try to get pics up of the parts and progress as I go...
 
Here is a shot of the pistons waiting to be sent off to Swain Tech for the tops to be Ceramic coated and the skirts will be moly coated

I am very proud of these and they are the first pictures I will post of my new toys/parts as my good friend Steve(Dura-Ration) cut them for me...he delipped them and took a two thousandths finish cut across the top and then put a .0125 radius on the edge of the bowls where they meet the tops...

Photo0179.jpg



Photo0180.jpg

here is what one looks like with the lip still intact...of course this one is cracked...hence the need for de lipping them...

lipped.jpg
 
OK, maybe I'm just dense, but why do they need to be de-lipped?

(those are pretty funky looking pistons, BTW).
 
OK, maybe I'm just dense, but why do they need to be de-lipped?

(those are pretty funky looking pistons, BTW).

If you look at the stock piston you will notice that it has a lip that hangs over the dish in the piston. This is good fro emissions, but in a performance app you are actually holding in tremendous pressure inside of teh piston that could be expanding downward and pushing teh piston down instead of being trapped inside of teh bowl in teh piston. The goal is to remove the lip so that the pressure will no longer push out against teh piston but instead go up and push teh piston down better utilizing the combustion process.
 
Nice pictures Paul, we also need to get the crank and cam keyed. When do you want to do that?
The front and rear seal installation tools are finished, so if you want to send them back to Creatures, we can do that too.:cool:
 
Nice pictures Paul, we also need to get the crank and cam keyed. When do you want to do that?
The front and rear seal installation tools are finished, so if you want to send them back to Creatures, we can do that too.:cool:

it is listed there under the to buy and to do: it's fourth and fifth...
 
If you look at the stock piston you will notice that it has a lip that hangs over the dish in the piston. This is good fro emissions, but in a performance app you are actually holding in tremendous pressure inside of teh piston that could be expanding downward and pushing teh piston down instead of being trapped inside of teh bowl in teh piston. The goal is to remove the lip so that the pressure will no longer push out against teh piston but instead go up and push teh piston down better utilizing the combustion process.

Great explanation, thanks... I can see that, now. So, does de-lipping the piston increase the combustion volume and lower compression ratio? Or would that be insignificant?

Oh, and BTW - thanks for the pics, Paul... I've never been inside a Dmax, so this is all shiny new stuff to me!
 
Great explanation, thanks... I can see that, now. So, does de-lipping the piston increase the combustion volume and lower compression ratio? Or would that be insignificant?

Oh, and BTW - thanks for the pics, Paul... I've never been inside a Dmax, so this is all shiny new stuff to me!

It does lessen the compression ratio some...

I going to try to be as detailed with pics as I can, considering it's already been torn down though...we'll miss that part of the whole ordeal...
 
Why not upgrade to LBZ heads (or something besides LB7) since the engine is getting gone through anyways and you already need 1 head? This woould also save from having to pull valve covers if the injs ever need changed again.

What are the performance goals for this?

Looks good!
 
I've already got another set of low mile LB7 heads and a brand new set of GM's latest revision injectors so I.m pretty much stuck going the LB7 route...that and I didn't want to adapt to LBZ heads as my truck is an 01 which has a completely different wiring harness than later models... so to do it right I would want to change the complete harness and dash from an LBZ donor or something just to make sure...but no matter...I'm into it too much to not go LB7... ...looking for 600+ reliable HP from this build I am scraping to try to upgrade the turbo as well but that may have to wait, as 30% injector tips and CP3 upgrade(bag of parts) are better money spent while the engine is on a stand and easily accessible...the turbo is easier to upgrade later if I have to wait on one...well not easy, but you get the idea...





Jazz.jpg
 
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