Sorry guys moving a bit too qucik here between post. So the snap on scanner is reading TCC SLIP SPEED up to 500rpm while i am starting from a stop 0MPH-60MPH once i get up to 60MPH and its in final gear TCC locks up and scanner now reads 0-3rpm slip ONLY when the TCC locks up. I will try later on today and check my TCC Slip going up a hill.
Slipping even on the Torque Converter should have the trans enter limp mode and set a code. May not trigger a SES light.
IF the engine is not running properly the ECM will unlock the TC Clutch. Misfire etc. Reduces emissions and allows the engine to recover or not stall. A stuck open T Stat may be causing you to run so bad it keeps the TCC unlocked.
Diesel Driver the answer to your question yes offroaing will easily get my transmission up to 200F and now im starting to understand why because of a lower speed driving.
You have a trans cooling problem where conditions, including extra heat generation from a higher stall converter, combine to make it show up.
WarWagon I'm taking in and understanding what your explaining, its ringing a light in my brain, By any chance were you ever involved in working on aircraft? The term windmilling ringed in my heat from my aircraft class. I'm going to do replumb my trans cooler setup how you explained so in terms of aerodymanics of the heated air hitting the clutch fan thermal spring, "Cause and Effect".
Diesel and AVGas runs in the family.
@THEFERMANATOR also explained it in MPH terms for Ram Air going through the stack. (This also applies to A/C: engine fan not needed above 45 MPH.)
What do you mean by routing trans fluid through cold side of radiator? the very lower fitting closets to the floor is the cold side or the one closer to the hood.
Think about how the "heat" generated in the transmission gets to the radiator core to be dissipated into the air. Hot trans oil is going into coolant that's already "cooled" by the radiator core. So the transmission heated coolant has to travel through the engine to be dissipated to the air in the radiator core. The hot side of the radiator with hot coolant from the engine would not cool oil so well because it's hot.
That said: think about the hot oil from the transmission. Make sure you know what cooler line is pumping "out" of the transmission. That needs to go to the "bottom port" on the radiator to purge air out of the trans oil heat exchanger (radiator trans oil cooler). Then after it's "cooled down some" the oil goes to the air to oil cooler for additional cooling. IMO purging air is not a concern in oil coolers looking at most bottom port designs.
The critical thing here is the hottest oil hits the radiator heat exchanger first. Otherwise you have hot air from the air to oil cooler blasting the A/C condenser and then the cooled trans oil possibly being reheated in the radiator.
I am now considering the possiblilty of keeping my clutch fan and changing over to durmax style clutch fan.
Put a ACDelco fan clutch VIN matched to your truck on it and call it a day.
Maybe an aux pusher fan if the advice still has you running hot.
Aftermarket fan clutches can be a light duty unit by mistake.
Diesel may be the wrong temperature/"duty" and suck fuel/power by staying locked in when it's not needed.
Also when you were saying cold brake stand? what are you suggesting i do or don't do when cold starting in the morning prior leaving to class? I usually wait 2mins before taking off and letting my engine warm up and trans while driving.
Cold morning and the windshield is frosted up. I don't have time for this window scraping $hit and the 'ignorant override you design assumes engine warmed up' defrost kicks in A/C compressor and frosts/fogs it back up. Dew point near or slightly below freezing. Just dew point alone at low temp is rough to keep cold windshield clear of fog.
This problem has had some solutions thrown at it. GM burned some trucks to the ground over heated windshield washer fluid and then issued a $50 check to "remove" the feature on 2008 models.
So to defrost the windshield and keep it from frosting back up:
1) Put a 120V electric heater in the cab on a timer 1 hour or more before you got to leave.
2) Use a block heater for the coolant.
3) Drop it in drive, stand on the brakes, and give it as much throttle as it will take before the rear wheels break loose. 2 Min max at a time or you are overheating the trans oil in the TC.
4) Park it in a warm garage...
The ECM is instructed to "Warm Up" the emissions equipment as fast as possible. Warm Up... Do you think sitting around with no-load at 1200+ RPM is better than "loaded" dropping it in drive and going? (Although gently: without WOT.) It sure burns more fuel going nowhere. I wait for oil pressure then drop it in drive and go. Now that I am not my own warranty station - no warning lights and then drop it in drive as I only have a 6+ PSI switch for oil pressure now anyway.
Also almost forgot the answer to your question about my engine temperature dropped down fro 209F to 150F when i was climing up the snowy hill. I have not yet verifyed the accuracy of the engine temp gauge will do that later on today but the snapon scanner does match the temp as it says on the dash for trans temp. Talking about gauges reminded me that my entire instrument cluster is not OG the owner i brought it from had put in a escalade dash i been meaning to send it out to someone to get it fully rebuilt due to my engine oil pressure gauge needle bouncing around while crusing speed
Does the scanner show oil pressure? Coolant Temp?
Verify grounds by cleaning them. Battery grounds and the like. Load test battery. Positive battery cable condition?
Yeah the gauge may be bad or sender. Put a mechanical pressure gauge on it and be sure what is really going on. Last oil and filter change? Any UOA done?
What engine this have anyway?
