Gents (& ladies,) recently bought my 1st 6.5L. It’s a ‘95 w/152k mikes and is a pretty clean unit. Very tight, was well maintained. After starting it and running for several seconds I put it in gear and as I was getting ready to caress the accelerator it died. I am familiar with the fuel filter priming issue of a Duramax (have an ‘07 LBZ with 355k miles) & familiar with hard to find fusible links in a ‘93 D250 w/Cummins. So all this said, I’ve been reading and watching uTube vids on this 6.5L’s issue. These are my symptoms: Engine Service Light is on, the glow plug light goes off after 4-5 seconds, then engine turns over easily, batteries are new. Previously it has started effortlessly shortly after glow plug light goes off and I turn to start. I’ve cked all fuses and also shined up their terminal legs. I have 12v at driver side terminal of Glow Plug relay/controller. Now a specific question, as I’m not remembering, once the relay turns on is the 12v supposed to remain on the adjacent terminal or should it go away after about 4 seconds? (Seems same amount of time the dash glow plug light goes off.) I’ve pulled the two fusible links up and visually inspected them but haven’t ck’ed resistance yet. I was told the fuel filter was chged out just prior to my purchase and it has a garage’s sticker indicating such. If it was my Duramax I’d get out and bleed& prime the filter. And away I’d go. But hasn’t been as quick with the 6.5L TD. Your thoughts and troubleshooting ideas are appreciated!
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‘New’ ‘95 6.5L TD died after starting and before I could get seat belt buckled
- Thread starter Bilmac36
- Start date
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
How and where is the PMD mounted?
Excellent question. I had to verify the acronym, Pump Mounted Driver. I haven’t specifically looked for it yet. Do you know the OEM location? I just read aftermarket is a good idea to move. Thanks.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
It is a black or grey square about 3”x3” x 1”.
Factory it mounted to the side of the injection pump. Many people mistakenly remote mount it on top of the intake.
You want it on the backside of the front bumper on a heatsink.
Having a spare pmd is like a spare tire, sucks but the way it is. I suggest mount 2 next to each other and put a dummy plug in the spare one so when there is any issue you just move the wire and go. Leroy Diesel sells lifetime ones with quality extension cables.
It becomes a bad joke of “my windshield broke, what should I do?— response of “try the pmd!” But really when anything goofy goes on, try the spare pmd.
Remove and clean all engine grounds. Bad ground drives the pmd nuts.
The glow plug control can be altered by aftermarket programming to have “after start glow” or longer glow
Times. CAUTION: only use self limiting plugs-AC Delco 60G is best. Bosch 80034 is the only other option l, but they are on a streak of failure right now.
The two large posts that have the plug wires attatched should go dead after starting- is that the ones your meaning?
Factory it mounted to the side of the injection pump. Many people mistakenly remote mount it on top of the intake.
You want it on the backside of the front bumper on a heatsink.
Having a spare pmd is like a spare tire, sucks but the way it is. I suggest mount 2 next to each other and put a dummy plug in the spare one so when there is any issue you just move the wire and go. Leroy Diesel sells lifetime ones with quality extension cables.
It becomes a bad joke of “my windshield broke, what should I do?— response of “try the pmd!” But really when anything goofy goes on, try the spare pmd.
Remove and clean all engine grounds. Bad ground drives the pmd nuts.
The glow plug control can be altered by aftermarket programming to have “after start glow” or longer glow
Times. CAUTION: only use self limiting plugs-AC Delco 60G is best. Bosch 80034 is the only other option l, but they are on a streak of failure right now.
The two large posts that have the plug wires attatched should go dead after starting- is that the ones your meaning?
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
Welcome to the forum
If you want to prime the fuel filter there is a round knob on top of the canister that you unscrew. There is also a brass T-valve mounted on the front of the engine that you can get fuel samples from or check and see if the lift pump is working like it should. You should go ahead and put a clear hose (1/4” I.D. 6” long) on the IP return to look for air intrusion while your looking around in there.
If you want to prime the fuel filter there is a round knob on top of the canister that you unscrew. There is also a brass T-valve mounted on the front of the engine that you can get fuel samples from or check and see if the lift pump is working like it should. You should go ahead and put a clear hose (1/4” I.D. 6” long) on the IP return to look for air intrusion while your looking around in there.
Yes, the two large post on the glow plug relay. Thanks.
Ok, PMD it is. So it there an adequate way to test without using a spare? Or it’s just one of those deals. With this bit of info will definitely get a spare. I’m the type person that keeps a spare serpentine belt in vehicles that I drive beyond my local area. Appreciate the information. Looking now for one.
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
Not anyway of testing the PMD that I know of. There is a recent thread on here on how to change the transistors in them though
Yes, I like that idea of clear hose. Read a reply where someone had done same. Makes sense as a good visual aid.
On the round knob on top of filter, is it safe to assume - open it and turn key so electric pump causes fuel to flow out of it then turn to close it while ‘bleeding’ fuel? Or is there a manual primer?
Ok, I’ll search for that when at laptop. Thx
Will L.
Well-Known Member
No pmd test- on try known good one...
Yes, you have how to bleed filter.
Yes, you have how to bleed filter.
Thanks.
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
I can’t remember about a 95 but I know the 96 and newer trucks have a hot wire that goes to the lift pump under the hood behind the fuse box on the back driver side wheel well against the firewall. It’s a red wire with a plug on it that you can stick a wire in and hook to the battery and make the lift pump run
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
95 won't run the lift pump during the WTS sequence 96 and newer will. So you won't be able to just turn the key to bleed the filter
btfarm
America First!
Welcome to The Truck Stop! These guys are the best with 6.5s anywhere. They'll have you set up and running smooth in short order with a bit of patience and lots of reading here on the forum.
Great advice from this bunch. Any chance you want to buy a 95 GMC 6.5 for an "organ" donor? Been told it's her crankshaft but everything else is pretty good. New fuel filter too. $1000 and I live 70 miles east of Dallas... Texas...
Hmm, so meaning I have to use Jaryd’s noted method in previous reply? Thanks
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
no Manual primer on the 6.5. Be nice to have thought.
You prime the system by that wire under the hood near the firewall if a 95 has it. I can’t remember if my 95 parts truck has it or not. Stick a wire in the plug and hook to battery and then crack open the knob on top of the fuel filter.
The wire might be hiding from you if it’s never been used before. I read about that wire on this forum and I had to hunt for mine. It was bent down under the wire loom that runs to the driver side fender.
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Is it a Cheyenne. Mileage? How’s the body, interior, bumpers, etc. thanks for asking.
I want to say I can recall seeing that red wire. My PMD comes in tomorrow so will ck then. Thanks for the info!
GMC Sierra 3500. Chrome is good... Exterior just needs a paint job. In Texas so very minimal rust. Interior... Drivers seat is shot (big "rip" on door side), backseat good. Dash good. Steering half decent (leaky fluid system but we keep it full). New ignition. Only real problems are whatever is wrong engine wise (not crankshaft, may just be injector pump, injectors, fuel sock in tank... Fuel system overhaul) the glove box has a broken open stop and missing a piece of the outside. And the heat/AC vents passenger side are in need of tlc.
And it's dirty...
And it needs tie-rods drivers side...
And it's dirty...
And it needs tie-rods drivers side...
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