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‘94 stalling with new PMD

Invest in some extra length rubber tubing for the pressure gauge, connect to the fuel drain "T" and run line so you can tape the gauge to the windshield. That way you can observe fuel pressures while driving. Use good tape (comment/warning from another member).
 
Looks like you'll be doing some tile work. What's the black stuff?

Yep, tile work. I have a sub I'll bring in for that, but I do all the prep. That black is actually a dark blue green. It's a water barrier material called Aquadefense. They recommended a water barrier under the tub. It came in a gallon and I had plenty of extra, so I covered the entire subfloor. Sister has an autistic son who is OCD about cleanliness and spend a lot of time in the bath. We wanted this to be indestructible. The original construction had 1/4" plywood and particle board over 1 x 6 boards. Tub was just set on the 1 x 6 boards. There was some rot at one corner of the tub. I had to pull that pony wall to repair it. That is 5/8" plywood subflooring that I used, then 1/4" Hardee Backer on top of it. The tub/shower walls will get 1/2" Hardee boards. I am almost ready to hand it off to my tile guy.
 

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I've been using a schluter product you thinset down and tile directly over it. Don't do any extra waterproofing, don't use cement board, pretty cool stuff. I've used it over plywood, regular sheetrock, etc. Comes in a 3' wide roll
 
A large part of the membranes purpose is to decouple dissimilar materials so the tile won't break loose from expansion and contraction. Both laticrete and schluter make a plastic waffle like roll to decouple wood floors so you can tile over them with minimal height gain. Great for kitchens so the dishwasher still fits.
 
Alright, back on track. No tile work, just some 6.5 porn for Independence Day. Installed the fuel pressure gauge by T'ing in at the FTB connection on the IP. Ran some tests, mostly at idle or in place. It stalled just trying to get out of the driveway. Basically I see 4 to 5 psi while cranking, then it quickly drops to 0 or even negative.


 

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Flex seal the bathroom!!

Ok, either restriction in the fuel line like plugged filter plugged sock, etc or the lift pump is toast.

Why do I want to see a permanent mounted gauge in the dash for this is I have seen injection pumps that had gauges tell when LP is dead make it over 300,000 miles. I have seen injection pumps ruined in under 30,000 miles.
So, glad you found it and hope it hasn’t been like this a long time because it is killing the injection pump.
 
Flex seal the bathroom!!

Ok, either restriction in the fuel line like plugged filter plugged sock, etc or the lift pump is toast.

Why do I want to see a permanent mounted gauge in the dash for this is I have seen injection pumps that had gauges tell when LP is dead make it over 300,000 miles. I have seen injection pumps ruined in under 30,000 miles.
So, glad you found it and hope it hasn’t been like this a long time because it is killing the injection pump.

Truck has 286K miles on it. Not sure how many on the ip. I assume the lift pump is the original.

We have one of the original batch Walbro FRC 10s from Leroy. I need the mounting bracket. Have the fittings and a prefilter kit. Also Leroy's lift pump harness. Finally, have a new fuel tank sender with sock.

If it's the worst case and the IP is toast, we have a used one on the engine we pulled from the '95 wreck. That has about 60K miles on it. That or get a rebuild from Conestoga. I've been happy with the Conestoga IP that I installed last year. Guess I'm getting more practice.
 
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