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I also unscrewed the OPS on the injector and watched it come in and out as it should as I turn the ignition . The AC condenser was removed so that’s disconnected, and the fan that was in front of the old cooler is disconnected. I disconnected and reconnected the PMD after the issue, but that’s...

Ever had your lift pump stay on (even with key removed) and your engine not start, though cranks very well? There was no battery in the RV for a week, just sat there. So all system were temporarily disconnected I guess. Just put in two 1000CCA batteries. And just put in a new oil cooler...

Yes. Thanks this makes a lot of sense. I’m thinking about getting an aftermarket oil cooler. Connecting 2 oil cooler lines to it. And since I’m not worried about the AC (top half of my current condenser), maybe remove that condenser altogether and cap the AC lines.

Yes that’s engine oil. Seems I have a radiator, with an AC condenser stacked in front of it. But the AC condenser leaks black engine oil, where as I was expecting refrigerant (somehow the 2 systems flow engine oil. PAG oil? previous owner did something.? When you say loose an engine, you mean...

In my RV (1996 Chevy P30 Chassis), the AC condenser in front of my radiator also cools my engine oil (apparently something about PAG oil, or something the previous owner did? Unsure). There is a leak in my AC condenser (small hole on the exposed left tube). I’m not finding this AC condenser for...

Not sure what it’s a reference to.

1000 psi! Didn’t know.So if I have a leak I won’t see diesel dripping I will simply have air getting sucked in at the leak instead.? Definitely cutting open the old return line to see if anything in inside. Curious question. Will a Tech2 computer reader give me a code for a fuel line leak...

Bullet point updates. 1. I put in a clear return line (last week) as seen in the photo. Not the slightest air or bubbles when I did the test today. 2. Turned it on, engine idled fine. First for 15 minutes before it turned off. Then idled fine 30+ minutes til I finally turned it off myself...

I’m finding varying prices between 260$ - 600$ I can find a good one. Thanks!! Couldn’t have guessed this.

Oh Thanks! (What type of tooling?) I wander which one of these Amazon ones it is. Gonna do some reading and search around.

Oh I see why it’s no. My fuel return line is after my injectors. Is that mainly why?

I cleaned the grounds that I could find. It was only 3. I’m sure there’s many more, if I had a list or diagram I’d clean them all. Cuts off even when it’s not that cold. Like 45F. The mechanics couldn’t read my codes even with his 12K$ machine. He said I don’t have an ECM

Great. So if I watch my clear tubing while my engine is idling, and when it shuts off (as it currently does), i notice that fuel had stopped flowing in the clear tubing seconds before, I can suspect my selenoid?

Thanks! 👍 I’ll have to find other shut off selenoid tests.

Thanks, that answers my question very well. I attached another photo, maybe that helps. Line 1 goes right under the manifold.

I thought the PMD would malfunction once it’s overheating. After a long time driving. Not necessarily?

As a test, I connected my shut off selenoid to some jumper wires and power. It behaved as expected, worked fine. Can it still be receiving a bad signal that is making my engine shut off during idling at a cold starts? Here is my question: what is another way to test my selenoid is function...

RV idles (smoothly) for 3 minutes, or 1min, or 10 seconds several times (then cuts off suddenly) during a cold start before finally running well for as long as needed, after several tries. Can that be related to air in fuel lines? Before I add clear hoses to watch for bubbles. Few questions: 1...

😉👍

Thanks Doug! Will have a bunch of questions soon. Lol