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They came off, after some work with a sledgehammer. The shoes were 2.5" wide, while the drums were for 3.5". So the replacement drums did fit after all. :thumbsup:

Anyone got a good idea on how to get the drum off? It's stuck to the axel, not the bands. Can I pull the axel with the drum on, making it easier to work on with a BFH.. And, does this look like the correct replacement? Seems different than the original :confused: Looks like the contact...

I didn't know if or where I had a leak, just that the AC didn't work, so in this case it worked out well. Can tell them to go easy on the stuff at the next attempt, after I have replaced the condenser.

Had a shop try to refill it, reckon its dye in the refrigerant. Didn't look like the oil itself was green, but it was hard to tell. They said that it held vacuum, but as soon as they started to fill it it started to leak. Leak is at the bottom corner on the passenger side, which looks like the...

Condensator had a rust hole, it puked green oil.. Cheap fix, at least :smile5:

Ok, thanks. I thought the diesel k1500 actually had k2500 driveline?

No slip clutches, it's that sentrifugal-activated-locker-thing. That one don't need LS-additive, as far as I know? You are talking about dropping the front diff to do the seal, I reckon?

Did the rear today (had to swap the pinion shaft lock bolt; do I really need to take the bearing caps of to get it out?? :rolleyes5:), but as I grabbed the bag of oil I saw that I had been given the wrong gear oil. As far as I know the rear should have synthetic 75w-90 (GL5), but I got mineral...

The pressure sensor was open, and the pump started as soon as I jumped the wire. Guess it's the pressure then, so I'll just wait and see if a refill sorts it out. Thanks, all.

The relay in the fuse box clicks, but the pump does not engage, or at least nothing happens that I can detect. All other pumps I have seen you could see the clutch engage, I reckon it's the same on this one. Isn't there a sensor for the refrigerant, that one could check? Reckon it's just a...

Sorted out the fuse, it was a non-related sort circuit. But still, anything I can check before I check/refill refrigerant? Probably not, but two days between refill and vacation doesn't leave much time to fix a possible bug..

My AC does not blow cold air, and there hasn't been warm enough before today to be absolutely sure. Today I tried to run it a bit at max to see what happened, after the truck had been sitting in the sun (hooray, today summer came :smile5:). And as I suspected it didn't make any difference if the...

Checked with GMTDScan, and it peaked at 17.11 once, around 16.5 rest of the time. At wot I would say that 95% of the time it stays well below 16. The gauge was dead on. When I get a clear idea of EGT I will try to decrease boost a bit, and see if the EGT changes to the worse.

17 is absolutely max, and I have to work it hard to get it that high. I reckon it usually peaks at 15 (the gauge is in bar, so I need to think back and do a bit of conversion), it needs to upshift and accellerate a bit at WOT to reach 17. Haven't driven it enough to get a proper idea of EGT, but...

Ok, I adjusted the TM to max 17 psi. The EGT was a bit high with 13 psi, especially with a trailer even though it only weighed around 900 lbs. Not sure how much of boost I can "safely" run? 17 sounds like alot.. It runs pretty sweet now and I really like the way it acts and feels (with the...

Yup, it peaks at 12 psi now. Not sure if I should/could increase that a bit. Was running stock settings before.

Chip is in place :smile5: 60 hp chip from Engh motors, works fine and EGT's are if anything better than before. At least in the top range. Not a revolutionary effect increase as the truck had some major modifications from before, but it runs good ):h Just need new shocks, and a muffler as...

Plugged the hole and relocated the probe to the crossover on the drivers side, a couple of inches from the manifold. Got rid of the adapter and the extension of the wires. It jumped at least 200 deg and more like 300 in the upper part of the scale, but I don't know if the adapter had anything to...

Is there enough material in the crossover to tap it, or do I need a weld-on or a clamp?

Well, all but the injectors are done, and I've been looking into a chip from engh motors in Sweden, but have been awaiting the pyro. I reckon the chips from Engh are comparable the heath chips in the way it tunes the engine..