I've done it a couple times, with the radiator in. Just remove the core support and shroud for easier access. 1/2 day if you have all the stuff laid out and ready (tools, parts etc.).
What I found is that no specific wire has a direction to it, rather than the polarity of the current going through them.
Like: if green was + and yellow was - and it moves up, then reverse polarity and it goes down. That's what the switch does.
For those interested, here's the wiring sequence.
Left side mirror
Truck---------------------New mirror
Green---------------------Green/White stripe
Yellow---------------------Yellow/White stripe
Blue-----------------------Blue/White stripe
White----------------------White
Right side...
Update:
I mounted the new mirrors and figured out that the mirror switch was broken. I took the one off my doner truck and it worked except for the up function. I ordered a new one from the stealer $$. It'll be be here tomorrow.
That may be and I'll check it out, but it worked before the ps mirror got broke and actually it worked a little afterward too. Now that I'm ready to install the new mirrors, there's no power.
:banghead:
Do you know what fuse handles it?
OK, I figured out the sequence of power to the new mirror plug to get it to move properly and the lights work too. I can only assume the 2 black wires are the heater circuit.
Now I have to figure out why there isn't any power going to the mirror control switch on the door.
Jody
I recently had an issue with my ps mirror.
I ordered Chris Cam TTMs from Leroy. We are having problems trying to figure out the wiring. I ordered the heated/marker light model. My truck doesn't have a heated mirror switch, but I figured once mounted, I could fabricated something for that...
They replaced the IP gasket, the exhaust gaskets and replaced the missing header bolts. They also found the coolant leak on the front/top of the engine. Apparently someone didn't properly torque some bolts.
We took the motorhome on a small camping trip on Labor Day weekend and visited 3 breweries. Put on 450 miles and didn't have any issues at all. I still need to pull the dog house cover to make sure everything is still tight and not leaking.
I'm drawing a blank on "TTM"?
I have so many things to mount yet, I don't know if I'll get it all done before winter. Water/meth injection hooked up, intercooler installed, finish mounting the gauges and that Raptor fuel pump still sitting in the box.
I picked up the RV yesterday while waiting to have new tires mounted on my K3500 (in my sig).
Kind of off topic, but just have to rant a little.
On Friday I drove the truck to the Ford dealer to order tires (they had a special going on). On the way back I stopped at the auto parts store to pick...
I went back to the shop to take them spare gaskets I had, so they don't have to wait to order them. I found out that it really wasn't so much loose mounting nuts as it was the gasket had been torn when they initially installed the IP, so just tightening it wouldn't have solved the issue. They...
I visited the shop today to see what they found so far. They found the oil leak. The nuts on the IP worked loose causing it to leak around the gasket. (I think too many cooks in the kitchen) That has to be one of the worst places (on the top of the engine) to be leaking. I'm not sure how they...
The gaskets could be the problem, but remember I don't have OEM exhaust manifolds, if that makes a difference?
I took it for a 90+ mile test drive last Thursday, then returned it so they could re torque the exhaust bolts. They were also looking for the source of the oil leak on the top of the...
Yes they did. They were installed at penninsular with RTV, but when they were removed to have the welds touched up, that all came off. The engine was installed without the headers because of the space needed to get it up through the bottom. They used gaskets when they reinstalled them.