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I have a new stock diameter crossover and a new 6.5 timing set available. I I read this correctly this will swap. I just made sure I could I find it as I spent 2 days looking for injectors for someone recently. Don, when you read this PM me and I get these parts out to you if you want them.

It it is a chafed hole from heat shield, use a piece id old radiator hose as chafing gear. I do this on all my vehicles, my jeep in particular. Wire ties work well to hold it in place.

Most of us have more $ into our rigs than they are worth. Like WW said, is we had to pat for the labor we wouldn't own them. The same can be said about my jeep and Datsun. On these old vehicles, you just keep up with replacement of old parts. I replaced everything under the hood, did the front...

I keep getting Window 10 free upgrade on my laptop. Why would I consider/avoid it. I know nothing is free and probably a 30 day trial. I wish I still ran 7 to be honest.

I'll take the cold(not-160) as I can always add a layer. I never intend on living near or on the arctic circle. I think that in 10 years my opinion could change. Shoveling roofs and snowblowing won't be possible in 10ish years for me. I figure Tenn., Virginia, or the Carolinas is in my future.

I have part of a roll left over from different auto projects(over the closed cell foam in the cab and on the abs headliner on the roof. I will use the rest for the windshield. I've used every type of glue for velcro to keep the barrier close to glass, and nothing holds up to the heat.

Who ever thought that the state of the automotive world would come to this. The leaky old part works better than the remanufactured one. New means nothing either, and I wish I was joking.

My earlier post was based on the assumption that you had the tools and knew what to expect. I have done this work before, just on solid axles. The whole job was easier compared to my saltwater beach fishing Jeep. I watched Youtube videos and reviewed the differences. I also had Heavy duty tools...

The harbor freight tool above worked fine as I just went through the new tire and ball joint thing in April. At least on my truck the lowers pressed right out easily. Buy the best ball joints as I paid to have them done a year ago and they were junk this year. IMO the reason they wore out so...

I will call you tomorrow Leroy. I wasn't complaining, I was cross referencing to see if there was a racor type with clear bottom. Clear isn't necessary either. I know the factory ffm is not good at removing water from this forum. My next question is, does a filter that does both jobs do both...

I plumbed Leroy's prefilter kit so the fuel goes through the filter before it gets to the LP. I figured the Walbro would live longer. Now I wish there was a water separator back there. Racor doesn't sell one that fits and space is tight back there. Another reason to go centrifuge. That FS2500...

FT, I have a 12V pump that was from ESP which was Eastern Superior Products I believe, or Pre-luber.com. That business is now gone. The same pump unit is sold by cpperformance.com. They are expensive but eliminate dry starting, which you already know. Have you any experience with the accumulator...

Will, How much filtering does does diesel get? I know there is a filter at the pump, but I figure that get changed very rarely. The reason I ask is because I changed out my whole fuel system and got rid of sock and have pre-filter. I am lucky to get 3 months max on the pre filter before I lose...

After a few more UOA test with soot readings, I will probably switch over to centrifuge. I don't know what I'll do with my FS2500. I also need to take my pre/post oil pump and put it back on the 6.5. That will remove most metal on UOA, the before and after UOA on the gasser its on now proved...

I wished I lived somewhere that made 4x4 unnecessary. I wouldn't hit that fuel mileage wall.

Hit 5K on the oil.

WW says you have to request it in my UOA thread a week or so back. It's not a dumb question because I thought it would be automatic test in a diesel. It's not. My next sample will be sent out in a few weeks when I hit on the oil.

I'm gonna wait to see soot levels in UOA comparisons. My bypass filter system was expensive and so are the filters. I hate to say it, but I see a centrifuge in my Xmas stocking.

I haven't had it apart for a while, and was hesitant to change my avatar, as I am superstitious. I know it wouldn't pass scientific muster, but I would like to see soot levels with different builds and components ect. We all have different driving style, towing, tunes, IP's but we might be able...

Before I swapped a takeout engine into my truck, the oil would be sooty black in 500 miles. I didn't re-ring with total seal cause I hadn't heard of them in 2010(swap finished in 2013). With bypass filtering, the oil has some translucent left when looking at the dipstick. The sample was sent out...