KnKreb is on the mark in that it modulates to maintain a set vacuum rather than be a binary control. As Buddy noted makes no sense that it fully closes.
As Bison noted the ability of the CDR to keep oil mist from the intake is questionable at best especially once the miles pile on. Even after...
Only just read this thread. I'm really sorry for all that you lost, I'm a cat fan too that just plain out sucks.
FYI to anyone reading this with pets, you can get stickers to put on windows etc that alert fire department that there are pets inside. They even come with boxes that you can check...
I always key off first.
In my years of experience with electronics etc I have found it better to be safe then sorry no matter what the theory of hot disconnectable/swappable etc. Usually it is simple extra step or two and hence in reality a no brainer. To many times with equipment I have...
Just an FYI to those reading this as I understand it the rotor for the dually JB8 system is 1.50" thick as opposed to 1.26" on the single wheels JD7 system (same diameter of 12.5"). That is no doubt why your rotors were different. So just wanted to make the point that the correct rotors can be...
If it were me with the 3.73 and that kind of weight I'd go with a 245 tyre. Seem to recall in a prior thread you were discussing a 265 or 235/85. Every little bit helps.
Others have covered cooling etc and yes brakes but as already pointed out you already have the 3.5" rears.
As to the...
You can also get an aftermarket programmable tach that you basically hook up to the alt tach signal/pulse generator/magnetic pickup and then set up accordingly.
Isspro has a nice line up such as there R8585, they also show a magnetic pickup unit specifically for the 6.2/6.5. VDO makes them...
No, and I think great white has saved me keystrokes in my response. I do though also feel though that for one that is used to threshold braking that ABS is not seconds better though.
As already stated the ABS on my Burb in its current state works fine for me, however I also recognize the...
Or check the glove box rpo codes.
The brakes on the SF are a bugger to bleed also, same issue close to the spring pack. I can see though that a 2.5" on a FF would give you some breathing room as I am summising that the back plate is further out.
Cheers
Nobby
Yep the burbs have the 3.5' shoes of the FF axles. Sadly the SF axles only have the 2.5" shoes and to be honest I am wishing I had the FF. With weight in the back stopping these things quickly is....., well lets just say they tend to think about it. As far as I am concerned for the burb every...
Sorry to hear this, main thing is that all are OK
Late to the party here but based on what you say sounds definitely like a stuck caliper to me. You describe she felt it pulling and then tapped the brakes and it got worse. So caliper already sticking and tapping brake made it bite even more...
Sounds like it is running in a sweet spot then if you are demanding 3/4 of it's possible output then from a longevity standpoint. I am assuming a 150A or thereabouts rating here. Even with the ext reg heavy duty hot rated units that I install I try to size 2/3 to a 3/4 of max possible output...
Matt,
My ABS did not come on but I was in the dry. Nor did I feel it come on when carefully driving off the highway to a safe place for a tow. My guess is ABS or not you probably would of still had the collision. You obviously as one does in a lost line situation jump on the pedal hard that...
What Fermanator said that many batts upgrade your alternator. In your case I would install a true hot rated alternator rather than a higher output automotive style unit. One that can charge at an appreciable rate at lower rpms and quickly and not mind getting hot so that when camping and using...
When my rear line failed I still had the front brakes as pathetic as it was with only half the braking effect and no sign of the ABS playing funny buggers and I was going down a slope braking as hard as I could with just the fronts. So in my case I would not say zero.
Matt just curious did...
OK the thread I was remembering is this one, post number 8
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?17769-Oil-cooler-line-time.....-Opinion&highlight=cooler+adapter
That fitting is SAE straight thread and in fonecop's sig he lists a 95, so appears to be a solution for the earlier cooler...
All the info you need is here now and yes in the end your time getting hoses made up etc is technically in the main free. I have to confess part of the reason that I DIYed is for the same reason that of throwing away a perfectly good cooler.
The metric adapters I used from parker are not that...
OK I'll weigh in here seeing as I somewhat started this also and yes whilst my comments were not directed at RDM they of course can lead back to him and his post.
I completely respect your ability/attention to detail to blue it, check it and make it work however that understanding does not...