Yes you'll need two 45 degree NPT to JIC/ -AN fittings, depending on what kind of hoses you're running. I assume you're running an oil cooler with NPT fittings?
One oil cooler line mod that isn't so common is keeping the stock section of aluminum lines and cutting off the rubber, flaring the...
@Big T I found a way to get the bolt out without dropping the diff. If you unbolt the CV joint from the stub shaft the bolt has *just* enough wiggle room to slide out. One of the hex sides has to be exactly parallel to the stub shaft face that's how tight it is. Didn't get a picture on one side...
I'd suggest getting an exact idea of your wheelbase- just measure center to center of each hub front to back. In looking on RockAuto's website there are 155" and 159.5" wheelbases so splitting hairs there may get you closer to what you need. Is your truck crew cab/ 4 door? The cab & chassis is a...
I'm not entirely sure, but you can get at least some of the wiring harness figured out if you buy the upgrade kit for changing from the thermal activated actuator to the electric motor style of '97+...
Thank you for the input @THEFERMANATOR , glad to know you're ok after the hurricane down there.
I was looking at an aftermarket 4 core radiator like this one...
From what I've read on here, 14 psi is max boost for GM turbo
For any engine, 18psi is max boost for head bolts. Anything above you'll want head studs.
If going to bigger turbo and head studs, you really should install a CAC/ intercooler as well. People have run studded engines without a CAC...
Did you replace all other e- brake cables? The cable that goes from the parking brake pedal back to the adjuster can get really stretched out. I'd make sure all cables are new and verified correct size
@Big T I see what you mean now that I'm attempting to remove the LCAs on my K3500 project. Only on the passenger side at the moment. Rear LCA bolt on the pass side has the head facing the front and won't back out all the way before hitting the union of front diff and CV axle.
When you say drop...
If you're interested in bypassing the stock FSU, I installed this draw straw kit on my truck. Have yet to use it as the IP died shortly thereafter and truck has been parallel parked ever since, but I was personally excited to get away from the stock setup...
@ak diesel driver yes the yellow tape I'm referring to is for propane/ natural gas fittings. I know it's not apples to apples with propane/ gas to diesel fuel but just seemed logical to me to use the stuff designed for hydrocarbon exposure. If there is a diesel specific tape/ dope even better...
I don't know if it makes a difference but when wrapping fittings that could have contact with fuel or oil I use the yellow teflon tape that's made for gas lines. Apparently the gas can degrade regular teflon tape so I use the stuff that's supposed to better withstand hydrocarbon exposure.
For an upcoming build, I'm hoping to incorporate a CAC (intercooer) by using the DMax first generation rad & cac in tandem in the K3500's core support.
I've read on other forums about this mod being done before, so I'm hoping someone with firsthand experience can chime in with any helpful...
I thought @FellowTraveler was in Florida but I haven't seen him in a while here and when I typed his name it didn't let me select his account...
Hope everyone is ok down there
In the thread I linked to the OP ultimately used the manifold with the 90 and just cut the 90 and re- positioned it to point downwards and welded it back. I've got to dry fit things on the blown engine in the dump truck to see if my plan will actually work or if I'll have to get creative.
@EWC this is the manifold for a van/ hummer, stock form used on the passenger side
https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/MANIFOLD-EXHAUST-RH-TURBO_p_2132.html
When bolted to the driver side it faces forward. The outlet is flanged like the outlet of a turbo; a flat faced flare is needed with a v-band...
@Big T It's a very clean low mileage Optimizer takeout. I never bothered to look up the date code, any chance you could decipher it Chris?
I found it on marketplace 2 years ago just outside of Cleveland. Someone had bought it as a takeout and installed leaky head studs so they sold the engine...
Looks fantastic Chris!
The engine is going in a 1993 K3500 1 ton dump truck. Will see lots of work hauling construction materials and equipment. Still working on getting a built DB2 to mate with the engine. This engine is hopefully going to get the custom front crossover using the Banks...
I guess I'm also biased by living in the rust/ salt belt, that was my main factor in weighing the extra cost. But if that's not a concern then yeah why spend the extra money. My aluminized exhaust on my pickup is less than 5 years old and already rusting good in some spots