Search results

Yes, it’s an option, but the point is to come up with something that is a bolt-on for any squarebody with a 6.2/6.5 that doesn’t require extensive mods.

I will definitely look at a centermount, but based on @Rockabillyrat 's build, I'm not sure there's enough room between the engine and the cab to fit the up-pipes without mods and I want to make something that someone would be able to install with just bolt-ons. But yeah, I'll definitely look...

That's the idea. I'll probably start with the fixture from the last one, but shift the turbo to where it needs to be to fit in a squarebody.

Thanks! Yeah, that would be super cool for sure.

I’m going factory HVAC. I want to make a bolt-on turbo setup for a squarebody with factory AC since the only thing that exists is the Banks manifold that seems to be hit-or-miss for availability, so I need that to be all factory.

I confirmed that both the steering and the HVAC clear the shock mounts with plenty of room. Phew. I did some image searching online to see what that stud is for and it appears to be for some kind of steel line, like the vacuum line for the trans, which I don’t need anyway. I didn’t think it...

Not yet. Haven’t looked into it yet.

And I figured out why it’s so close - the frame this cab came off of had a homemade body lift on it. I was using that to measure for the location of the mounts. I had looked at it multiple times over a couple different days and the last time I apparently forgot to subtract the body lift...

So true!!

This was a cool milestone to reach tonight. I had to add a 1/4” spacer under the front driver side to make it sit decent…..not perfect, but decent. I guess I misjudged the height of the shock mounts. Hopefully I can work around this. I don’t recall what that stud was for.

I’m hoping this stuff doesn’t wear off, but I really applied it largely for noise control and secondarily for rust protection. I’m relying on the Rust Seal for the rust protection. I’ll keep the Fluid Film in mind for future projects though, thanks.

This is the stuff I used. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/undercoat-solvent-asphalt.html I figured it was one-and-done, but I guess I’ll see how it lasts.

I got the floor undercoated. It took 6 aerosol cans to do 3 coats. I also got the transfer case degreased.

I’m going to use the solvent-based in aerosol cans. I also didn’t see a difference, but the solvent made more sense to me.

The bottom of the floor has 2 coats of KBS Rust Seal on it. The interior floor is prepped for paint, but I won’t paint it until the cab is sitting on the frame because it’s very awkward to paint with the cab in this current orientation. Before the cab goes on the frame I’ll be trying...

Last night I finished welding the cab corner. Tonight I welded the interior side of the floor panels and ground most of the welds down on the cab corner. Tomorrow is wire wheeling the floor to prep for paint.

I wasn’t able to work on the truck over the long weekend due to some traveling……but not all was lost - I found a couple 1973-74 GMC grills for a good price while in Wisconsin and picked them up. I’ve been trying to get one of these for this project for over 6 months and now I have both a silver...

I got the floor pan all patched up. I’ve started fitting the inner and outer cab corner - the outer cab corner needs as much work as the driver side unfortunately, but I think I have learned some and can do a better job with the modifying.

Today I finished the driver’s cab corner and the seatbelt mount. After that I cut out the bad metal on the passenger side. Patches for the passenger side are started, but I don’t have any pics yet.

I spent over 4 hours today getting this cab corner to fit. The vertical radius didn’t match the cab so I had to hammer-and-dolly that to match. Then the horizontal radius didn’t match the door so I had to use the shrinker and stretcher on the flange…..however I also had to cut the flange off and...