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Here is Leroy Diesel. Should take You to the item. I’m not sure if he sells just the back pipe. https://leroydiesel.com/products/exhaust-system-down-pipe-back/

These are a pair of the automatic stripping tool. The point and the U is where I do all My crimping. Locked in for the first smash over and it is smashed down. Second smash over and it now is ready to solder. If insulation is desired, slide a piece of heat shrink over the wire before...

But yeah, do not attempt to fix that connector with those run of the mill terminals. Used to be a saying i aint heeerd inna very long while. Keep Your GM vehicle all GM. Our old units such as these cant help but aftermarket many items but as much of my truck ss possible gets GM equipment.

The only way I use that type of terminal is to grip the metalic part of the terminal with pliers, then another set of pliers and pull off that insulator. Then I have a crimp tool that has a sort of a punch on it. With that tool I cave against the wire right where the seam is on the terminal...

There also is the male side to these terminals if ever You would have such a need. The male and female insulators are also available.

Here is a better picture. https://jcaparts.com/products/gm-female-crimp-terminals-choose-10-12-awg-14-16-awg-18-20-awg

https://a.co/d/0iEL6ooV

I use ine of these crimp tools for the original GM wire terminals. Just dont ckamp down the terminal as tight on the insulated part of the wire. https://a.co/d/0cOAEYGV

See if the parts store has the original GM type connector that has the lock tab that keeps it from falling out of the insulator. I got a box of them from NAPA the other day for just a few bucks. Those connectors will not be on the rack with the general run of the mill terminals, the counter man...

I thought that was created when the cutting edges is more to 90* angle to the road surface. Like the cutting edge is too close to being verticle.

You can have her i dont want her she’s too methed for me, she’s too methed for me, she’s too methed for me. HHHHMMMmmmm, maybe a song could be created from this. How about like a polka tune, nah, not polka cause I aint gonna polka her. 😹😹😹😹

Looks mighty fine from over here in eastern Montana.

IIRC, that is a wire that excites the alternator into producing a charge. That little round thing plugged into it I believe is a diode. Without that diode, turn off the ignition switch and the alternator will continue producing voltage to the entire electrical system and the engine would...

May I add that it could be most helpful to add a pressure gauge at the inlet into the IP ? Welcome Aldis.

Lots of times I use the 6 pointy 1/4” drive socket stuck onna flex handle. That usually breaks them right loose.

Watching this. Without scrounging a key for our 08 Maliblu, IIRC, the chip is in the metallic portion of the key.

If You go back with stainless steel bolts get some kind of antiseize on them threads. Stainless is recommended to use nickel base, if You dont have that then just use the old standby silver aluminum base.

I have a terrible disliking for door panel removal and latch/lock parts replacement. Left Outside door release on My 2000 has a crack and the frame around that handle is slightly floppy. I know at some time it will have to come apart, by then maybe I could afford to take it to the body shop.

And another, I hope You dont mind question sessions. How did Your jaw get fractured ?