Search results

I've got the boost bolt from Leroy on order so that I can install a gauge to set/monitor. Thanks!

Thanks for posting that. I still don't understand why I'm getting contact. It looks like the shaft on my wastegate comes out of the turbine housing at an angle below perpendicular, which causes Heath's bell crank to hit that ear. Heath doesn't seem to think it's a problem so I'll see how it runs.

I think you hit on something there. I expected the Turbo Master to move the wastegate lever through it's full range of travel. Talking with the company today, sounds like you're about right with the amount of throw needed. They say the 1/2" or so that I can get is enough. I'm still skeptical...

The vacuum actuator was horizontally mounted. For some reason, the wastegate shaft seems either to be shorter than standard or mounted at an angle that is different than most. The shaft isn't bent, and turns cleanly around the axis. I may be able to re-use the vacuum actuator bracket and just...

@WarWagon, it's the 92-95 kit, correct bell crank, and the correct mounting hole. I'm trying to discern if my turbo is non-standard in some way, like a GM4 intake turbine mounted to an older style exhaust turbine. Figured others might have come across such a situation. Didn't make that clear...

I think a lot of you have done this mod so maybe you've come across this issue. I didn't see anything similar in a search of the archives. Note: I've contacted Heath but it's the weekend and I'm a little impatient to finish this, so figured I'd ask around. I don't have clearance to install the...

No, you're correct. They don't keep stock for the 2500 or 3500 in that year range. But, they told me that they can rebuild mine.

@JayTheCPA , on the box that failed, did they rebuild your original or did you buy one off the shelf from them?

Disregard the above. I see now that they refer to two different brands.

Thanks for that info. I've seen the references to blue top vs red top but don't understand the difference. How does that translate to manufacturers or part numbers?

I've read a bit around here about the pain with reman steering boxes on pre-95s. I need to replace mine pretty soon. Rock Auto carries a newly manufactured one from Lares; part number 11416? Anyone tried this box? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8889472&cc=1302365&jsn=461&jsn=461

Project basically finished. Finally got the 7.5x16s mounted and tested today.

I'll give that a try. Thanks!

I thought I had read that somewhere and I see two bleeder screws on the unit. But I haven't found any procedures for this, i.e. do you simply loosen-press on the brake-tighten as you do at the wheels? Or do you need to bleed at the ABS with a scan tool/command unit?

I'm glad you said that. I went out later to move the truck and the brakes were much firmer this time. I think I'll bleed the wheels again this weekend and see where I stand. Thanks @Will L.

Got it done on a gravel road nearby. Still mushy, so I've got some more troubleshooting to do.

Thanks @ak diesel driver , I'll give that a try.

I suspect I have air in the ABS unit on my 94 Suburban. Is there a way to bleed the unit without a scan tool? Hoping for some of the same jumper wire magic as with the lift pump rather than taking it to the local shop. I've not been able to find anything in web-land or even on this forum.

@FellowTraveler Interesting. I measured my wells and I was skeptical that anything bigger than 33 could fit. Tall and narrow is what I'm after but I figured I'd be limited to 255/85. So you've got narrow 36s on a leveled-but-not-lifted body? Did you paint the floor only or did you pull the...

I'll never again have trouble remembering where I parked. And I can safely say we no longer need to carry a signaling device in the Oh Sh*t Kit.