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Thanks will look into that........ do they recommend putting a repair sleeve on first or just put the new style seal straight over the worn spindle?

Best Timkin P/N I can find is 99282 (Redi Sleeve). Rock Auto Price is about $22. The SKF Speedi Sleeve P/N 99845 from NAPA is about $100. I have not been able to find the P/N by application......just had to measure the shaft and go to a sizing chart

Thanks had been looking and not finding anything..........searched for speedy sleeve and it came right up.

I have a rear seal leak on left side (the drum is full of gear oil). It appears that there are grooves worn into the spindle where the seal rides. I replaced the seal a couple years ago and it seemed to help some but it is starting to leak again pretty good. Is there some kind of repair sleeve...

Sent you a PM

so on the screen that comes up when you click the link, click on the wiring diagrams button. It should take you to the terms and conditions page. (or it may take you to the login page...can't remember and since it remembers my computer I can't go through the whole prosses.) But there should just...

No. It was just name, maybe email.... then that I was a do it yourselfer, and I agreed to the terms which basically said don't sell them and don't re-publish them.

running it without fuel pressure from the lift pump means the IP is sucking fuel all the way from the tank.... that added strain on the IP will shorten its life.

Found a couple wiring diagrams.......was going to post them and then realized it violated the copy write. However you can go there yourself and get them for free http://www.wilsonautoelectric.com/TSB_Database_License When I looked up 1992 6.5 the wiring diagram had 6.2 in the top right corner...

Sounds like a problem with the power getting to the lift pump. Not sure on the 92, but on my 94 the lift pump only runs when there is oil pressure. I think in 95 or 96 they started making the lift pump run for a bit before engine start to build up pressure for an easier start. Anyway it sounds...

Since it takes a while to clear out I would guess air in the system for the hard start.... have you tried putting clear hose on the fuel return line coming out of the IP to look for air bubbles?

You could have two issues......something like a couple bad glowplugs or getting air in the system when shutdown causing the rough start. Then a flaky PMD or CPS or Optic Sensor causing your loss of power / stalling.

I just had a couple injector lines touching each other and the heater core hose...... I thought it sounded like I had a collapsed lifter. Moved the heater hose and pulled the injector lines apart and no more knock.....boy was I happy!!! As far as the swap goes check the oil pan out. No first...

Looks sharp! Let us know if you feel a difference.

WOW!! Will be talking to you.......... I have a small seep in my truck so in the next few months I will be looking for one. What is the lead time/availability? Also how much to get it coated?

Sounds like you listed off most of the first things I would check.......... get the glow plugs running and make sure that you have vacuum to the turbo waste gate controller. Unless you want to put a spring waste gate controller on it.......

http://www.wilsonautoelectric.com/TSB_Database_License Is a free database that has most wiring diagrams

I just replaced the AC system in my tahoe. Was at the junkyard getting the high and low pressure switches and all the tahoe and pickups I saw said 2 lbs on the sticker on the accumulator. I saw one tahoe that said 2 lbs for tahoe and 3 lbs for suburbans. So I charged mine to 2 lbs.

Looks like a fun project!

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!