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Been hearing some pretty nasty smack on other forums Would just like to know why There is a lot of stuff that gets started from folks that don't know, and stuff that happens because "it's always somebody else's fault" the $hit happens Ah well If anyone hears any good solid data + or -, please...

Well now. After hearing all the great hype about how good the Scat cranks are for the 6.5 diesels, I bought one for Dahoooley and was happier than pig in !@#$%. Engine all in and running and I start hearing some pretty strong SMACK about these cranks. :eek: Sooooooooooooooo, what is the real...

The gauge cluster in this truck has always been a tad hinky, and the P O had installed a manual temp gauge. Voltage, grounds and such can effect the entire system. I suspect this is the issue. This engine block is an AMG 506 casting that was made in 2002, and has the oil squirters in the main...

With nasty wet weather on the horizon, the Son in law and I got after Dahooooley one more time and replaced the front brake calipers and pads this morning. Gawd, the calipers were stuck tighter than a bulls A$$ in fly time. Took a 5 pounder with some gusto to get the calipers to back off...

Time does not help either me thinks The cluster drops into the dash bucket and has contacts in the back that can get dirty too. Wiring is possibly a tad small for the demand. Ahhhh well Likely install a direct gauge in it just to be safe. When ya see 40 plus at idle like before, ya don't...

Yup 4 years was a long time to wait though.

Pretty much. Gotta shop around for some brake calipers now. That one brake was smoking sooo bad on the way back it was a bit unnerving. Just glad we were only 2 miles out

Today the Son In law came up and he got a bug in his butt and filled Dahooooley with green juice and fired it off. We ran it about an hour, give or take and all seemed well. The 4 year sojourn took its toll though, and the test drive soon revealed a failed/sticking front brake caliper. We are...

AHHHHH yes. Gotta do what works

With Scat cranks readily available cheap (And zero hours) I would not grind a 6.2/6.5 crank I have used cranks with 200k on them that were still perfect, but even if there are no indications when they are magnafluxed, they can still break. Sort of like bending a paperclip, how many times ...

Nope The IP needs to be rebuilt by a qualified Stanadyne shop R&R ON THE IP IS THE USUAL ANSWER

Two things come to mind. Easy one first. Serp drive pulley on the balancer. I f the rubber breaks, then the drive pulley can hammer as it has a pilot bearing. Remove serp belt and check pulley on crank. The second item is a broken crank. Generally a broken crank will show some loss of oil...

Fuel metering solenoid. The fuel solenoid moves constantly to maintain engine power and Rpm After time and crud the solenoid wears and can get scored or rough and not move properly. Once the solenoid gets fouled, it's the end of the road. ULSD is tough on the IP anyway, then add dirt, water...

This sounds like a governor issue in the IP Does it ever do it at low road speeds, or the engine die ??? A worn governor will cause this sort of surging. Missy

:) Thanks

:thumbsup: Thanks

Actually, I was watching the tail pipe when it lit, and there was little if any smoke present. That's a good thing me thinks.

UH HUH Sitting here with feet propped up

Thanks guys. Just waiting now for some decent weather to wrap it up. We been getting slammed with W E T W E T WE T TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT Over 2 inches yesterday Arrrrrrrrrgh Needed a row boat to get to the barn almost, and its down a 10% grade from the house :WTF: Gotta mix some 50/50...

Thanks troops. Been a long time coming for sure !!!!!!