Search results

Music to my ears! Haven't driven a diesel in over a year and I miss that rattle. Can't wait to put it to work 🤘

Looks like you may want to swap the stud and bolt on the passenger side of the tstat crossover. In Glagulator's picture it looks like the bracket that holds the turbo oil feed line is bolted to the valve cover side/ outer side of the tstat as opposed to where it is now on the valley side Engine...

The controls on a mini excavator can get really touchy when running the throttle at anything above half. I never run it that high, usually only at about a third of the way up from idle. All the engine is doing is running the hydraulic pump, everything on the machine is powered by hydraulics...

I never modified/ repurposed the bracket for the 2 different turbos I've used. I can see why making another brace could be helpful as Husker described but I just tossed it and forgot. I know lots of other folks have used other turbos on this engine, would be curious to know whether they made...

The model I pictured is the same I own, a KX91-3. Roughly 3.5-4 ton machine. If you can get one with the angle blade feature it's well worth having for pushing stuff around. The newer model equivalent would be a U-35 or KX-040 Have you run a mini before? Few small tips to make the job easier-...

It seems only the aluminized systems have the ball and socket design If you're set on stainless and want an easier disconnect at the downpipe to 4", your likely best bet is to get a stainless 3"-4" coupler and a set of 4" vband clamshells to mate the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. You...

The front blade on a mini excavator is very useful for grading. It has a float function just like that on a loader. Some have an angle blade feature which is extra nice for grading a taper. I've done numerous driveway jobs with the excavator. Plus a 3' wide smooth edge bucket is amazing for...

@jrsavoie the no emissions before 2015 applies to mid size diesel engines, I forget where the cutoff is but I think it's anything over 25 hp? Which is why you'll see lots of diesel garden tractors like the Kubota BX series at 24 hp, just under the cutoff for emissions @denata I agree that a...

For the kind of work you're looking to do @Big T I'd recommend buying a mini excavator over a tractor. Especially if you plan on reselling it. A mini ex is far superior for excavation and grading and is a lot easier to maneuver than a backhoe which has a more limited range of motion. The mini...

says it's out of stock on RA, but googling the part number could show if it's available elsewhere https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10898444&cc=1160503&pt=2332&jsn=466

you should have enough play in the hard line, don't worry about it getting bent a little bit. It can take a joke. RockAuto sells a flexible stainless steel clutch line. Highly recommend. Makes re-installation of any component in the system way easier

Some do just that- short splices of hose at each end to keep the aluminum line and the constriction it provides. My heater hose was fine at the firewall, and I didn't want to disturb something that wasn't bothering me. Ain't broke don't fix it approach.

just pulling the slave can result in the rock hard pedal you're describing. For whatever reason when it's out hanging and has no pressure on the rod it locks up. Air seemingly can get in without fluid getting out Slave needs to be bled. What I do with it in the truck like that is remove the...

@SnowDrift here's some more parts that popped up in Ohio. Looks like its a DB2 from a 6.2 but still a good core and injection lines. And throttle bracket, may have cable(s) for it as well...

Yep! And I believe on mine I just used a straight hose barb to connect to the new heater hose. Left the new hose a bit longer and let it make its own turn. Could also use a 45* there as Will suggested.

Don't remove the hose at the heater core, cut the other end where it's crimped to the steel line. Leave as much hose on there as you can. And correct that's the fitting for the crossover. I have a stainless steel one but an aluminum one may be better as dissimilar metals may not play nice together.

Yup I used just a regular heater hose. What helps is I got a 45 degree fitting for the thermostat crossover, it helps clear the A/C compressor better. Cut the hose where it's crimped at the firewall and just use a barb. Some say the smaller line is important as a constriction and I've seen the...

I've emailed NAPA but don't think that will go anywhere According to RockAuto what I got from the NAPA store is the correct part I bought a few stainless washers, just going to use those. I chatted with a NAPA representative online and it is indeed the correct part. I don't understand how this...

anybody else come across this issue? The original inner tie rods had nylon lock nuts, no castle nuts. Only other thing I can think of is the center link is a different thickness. But that doesn't seem likely

I'm not sure such an exhaust exists out of the box; one would have to buy their own stainless v- band flanges and clamps and weld up the pieces they'd want to come apart in sections to fit their truck.