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Carb defiantly needs cleaned and adjusted and all will be good..

We have 4 of those at work and they constantly have that problem, clean the carb and adjust ... And as les said clean the tank.

I have the best luck cleaning carpet with a pressure washer if it can be laid down outside...

@SnowDrift might be asking about tires for his camper with a 15" rim, my camper also has 15" rims and I don't have much clearance for a taller tire... I don't know if the XPS rib is made in a 15" rim size.

Yes, arp 2000, they are exclusive for the p motor, stritch spec.

Well pistons, rods are good, pistons just need soaking in carbon remover a few days and cleaning. The crank I'm not sure about yet, I'll see if the shop can polish it after magna fluxing and go from there. So far no real damage found.

When the "new" IP was installed did anyone check things with a tech 2 scanner?

The block is at the shop, they will cook it to get it clean, then on the CNC and laser measure all the areas I want measured, if all is good it will get decked and o-ring groves cut. I have 3 p blocks there getting the same services, and I'll be making a video of the process hopefully in a...

The oil was drained before he shipped it here so nothing to send in... He does have a bypass filter system, I think he still used a 5K oil change interval.. Timing gears not a chain. They stopped making them because the military went to a different motor, no other reason.. The owner used...

On a side note for anyone that doesn't believe bearing coating provide any protection, looking at these main bearings beside the rod bearings would not believe they came from the same motor, this was a crate motor from the start, copper showing on mains and nearly no ware on rods... Coating does...

3/4 of them ? The inside of the motor looked like it had 200k miles on it, I think oil filtering went wrong and got loaded with soot, timing not right, cold weather, etc all played into it... A few of the rockers won't spin on the shaft, I'll take them apart and find out more. I'll also call...

I believe the owner had some trouble getting the ds4 set correct and for a while ran veggie fuel till a db2 swap was attempted and had problems...

The rings are gapless, I don't remember if I used a complete ts set or sent in the 2nd ring... The rings are coked up with carbon bad, I haven't taken the rings off yet tho... Concentrated on striping the block today to get it to the shop and get it in line...

I have a customer's P400 in for checking and rebuilding. Reason for tare down, this motor had a db2 installed and suffered 3 runaways for various reasons, not good putting it mildly ... I had this motor in 35K miles ago for a partial build. The crank was not removed, I only went as far as...

I don't think 200* is too hot even sustained, and I prefer to measure that at the rear and control my fan from the rear. As fast as these motors heat up there is more opportunity for temps to get out of hand and cause harm, and a side note, most every head gasket I've seen blown was on the rear...

I guess I got confused, my reply was towards @dbrannon79 about where the temp probe was.

I've seen lots of blocks and they all had drain plugs on both sides, they may be difficult to get to in the truck...

why are you using the crossover? The hottest place is the rear of the motor, by the time the crossover shows high temp the rear is way hotter..

Phosphate will desolve rust, I don't think it will hurt aluminum but check first... And don't leave it in the system very long, it will eat metal if left too long...

Cascade dish washing stuff... Would have been a good idea to test for hydrocarbons before draining, hydrocarbons will cause the coolant to turn very brown.