How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

[dbrannon79]

stop and get you about 6 to 8 feet of heater hose and some clamps so when you can, replace that hose. might also do the replacement at the auto parts store so if you need a fitting youll be right there.

as for the gauge, it can change if the voltage is high, but a high output alternator shouldn't effect it unless it's pushing more than 14.5 volts. ideally you want to see 13.5ish volts regardless of what the alternator is capable of. you could have the auto parts check the charging system for free while your there. if your voltage gauge is showing normal, then it might just be a failing oil pressure sensor. it's rare that a gauge fails.

only other thing that I can think of is thicker oil if the engine is still cold and its really cold where your at.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

stop and get you about 6 to 8 feet of heater hose and some clamps so when you can, replace that hose. might also do the replacement at the auto parts store so if you need a fitting youll be right there.

as for the gauge, it can change if the voltage is high, but a high output alternator shouldn't effect it unless it's pushing more than 14.5 volts. ideally you want to see 13.5ish volts regardless of what the alternator is capable of. you could have the auto parts check the charging system for free while your there. if your voltage gauge is showing normal, then it might just be a failing oil pressure sensor. it's rare that a gauge fails.

only other thing that I can think of is thicker oil if the engine is still cold and its really cold where your at.

Oh boy,

If it is the oil pressure sensor....how ****ed am I.

 

[Will L.]

If it is just the sensor- you’re not. If the oil pressure is dropping- stepmone is checking oil level.
Feel consistency of the oil, make sure it’s still thick, and no fuel mixed into it.
Low pressure for one of these reasons needs addressing.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

If it is just the sensor- you’re not. If the oil pressure is dropping- stepmone is checking oil level.
Feel consistency of the oil, make sure it’s still thick, and no fuel mixed into it.
Low pressure for one of these reasons needs addressing.

For reference, I am running 5w40.

Im actually finally in my hotel, ill wait a bit for it to cool down so I can do the clamp and hose change, and let the oil get back into the pan. Ill check the level afterwards.

 

[dbrannon79]

is your oil pressure showing low or high? I thought I saw in your video that it was almost at 80 psi.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

It was high sir, granted, I was 7 hours into a drive by then.

I chopped the end of it off, peep results.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Update:

Trip is on hold, got injured badly, thankfully the VA took me in

 

[dbrannon79]

Update:

Trip is on hold, got injured badly, thankfully the VA took me in

Hope you and everyone else involved are ok, keep us updated. sending prayers your way

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Update:
Trip is back underway, im making a beeline to NY at this point, got a mouth wired shut, cant stand this anymore

Starting:

New video · Tuesday, Jan 27 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

Weird noise made by starter:

New video · Tuesday, Jan 27 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

(Not sure what that noise was, not the first time its done it either, im currently in PA now, 6 hours from NY)

 

[Will L.]

If you are talking about the high pitched sound that lasts about 1 second the instant the engine stops cranking- that is the starter free spinning.

Basically the engine “bucked” as in:almost started. It speeds up faster than the starter for just a moment and the starter automatically disengages (which is what it is supposed to do). But your finger is still holding the key to start when it happens. So the motor part of the starter is spinning but the gear isn’t engaged into the flywheel teeth.
There is nothing wrong with the starter- it’s doing what it should. It’s just because the truck is not starting as easily as it should.

Getting a jumper wire into the temp sensor wires should help that.

Im posting a pic from a short video. I circled in yellow a red square light just above the tachometer in this newer 6.5 pickup.
The video shows his staying on for 6-7 seconds. Your’s should do the same.
I’m 99% convinced it’s because of that temperature sensor. Right now your engine thinks it’s about 160° right now so it is immediately turning off the glow plugs. Watch how it is supposed to act in the video.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Well boys, the K5 made its way to NYC.

Now im over worried about it rusting out , i already washed it, but theres still salt on the roads which just doesnt help

What type of undercoat should I get it?
(How the underside looks like)

 

[jrsavoie]

Well boys, the K5 made its way to NYC.

Now im over worried about it rusting out , i already washed it, but theres still salt on the roads which just doesnt help

What type of undercoat should I get it?
(How the underside looks like)
View attachment 97799View attachment 97800View attachment 97801View attachment 97802

Looks good. I always used whatever oil of anything I had available. Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, Marvel, any brand or type of lubricating oil that was handy when I was working on any vehicle.

I tried Fluid Film, but I thought the nasty smelling Amsoil held up better

 

[dbrannon79]

There is also a sort of wax compound that can be sprayed on as well as a fogger that comes in a can with a straw made for coating inside frame rails and areas that are hidden you can't access like the inside of rocker panels and whatnot. I would find a place that you can put it on a lift and power wash from underneath and get into the frame and hidden areas to knock out any road grime and dirt that likes to collect and rot out areas before applying.

any way you look at it, you'll be needing to check on things under there and re-apply every so oftin. doesn't matter what product you use, it all can get scraped or wear off. If you find any surface rust, before application, use some evaporust to kill it, then coat it.

 

[jrsavoie]

There is also a sort of wax compound that can be sprayed on as well as a fogger that comes in a can with a straw made for coating inside frame rails and areas that are hidden you can't access like the inside of rocker panels and whatnot. I would find a place that you can put it on a lift and power wash from underneath and get into the frame and hidden areas to knock out any road grime and dirt that likes to collect and rot out areas before applying.

any way you look at it, you'll be needing to check on things under there and re-apply every so oftin. doesn't matter what product you use, it all can get scraped or wear off. If you find any surface rust, before application, use some evaporust to kill it, then coat it.

The problem I had with Fluidfilm was lack of longevity.

Plain old Marvel Mystery oil out of a squirt bottle seemed to last just as long.

I finally found a guy, not too far away that does the undercoating
I'm thinking about having him do a car we are thinking about buying, if it's still for sale next week. I'm finally heading home Tomorrow. And the 2016 F250.

It's expensive, but what isn't.

The truck needs the larger fuel tank, deleted and the water filter / pre lift pump before it gets coated.