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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

If he used a diesel compression tester on it and only got 180! that's in poor poor shape! you should see on a perfect engine 400 psi. my 93 with perfuse blow by has an average of 250 psi across the cylinders. still runs but low on power and uses oil.

I would get it up on an engine stand, install a starter. pull all 8 GP's out of the block. make sure you have two good hot batteries and some heavy heavy battery cables not jumper cables. and re-do that compression test.

on the rear diff, it looks like you had some moisture and some wear on the spider gears. doesn't look like a show stopper to me though. check you case vent to make sure it's not plugged up or located in a spot where water would get in. also I would run some full synthetic gear lube in both front and rear. since it's a 4x4, look into getting you a locker for both. that way you can have full lockers and run with the big boys! running with I call the "one wheel wonder" spider gears when you are in a situation you need 4x4 traction can get you into a pickle!!!
 
Yeah- some water beat up the differentials a tiny bit but nothing at all to worry over. As mentioned- make sure the breathers are cleaned up. & if you offroad half as much as that is rig deserves it, extend the breather hoses way up high.
In hmmwvs they tie the two together then use a small engine fuel liter in the end clear up by the air intake. Works wonders.

180 psi is HORRIBLE for a 6.2/6.5. That indicates an engine that isn’t worth installing. Again follow Doug’s lead. I would say pull all the glow plugs, use a squirt can to get the nozzle through the throat of the precup and shoot in a 50/50 mixture of ATF & acetone. Get some engine oil in the crank case and just loop the oil cooling hose ports together.
DO NOT REINSTALL THE GLOW PLUGS. No power to the ip and no fuel in the ip.
Hook up a battery on a charger and spin that engine over a ton of times. Add more 50/50 mix and do it again. What I am hoping for is your rings are stuck and this will free them up.

Once you have spun it so you think the cylinders are dry- screw in the glow plugs(no power to them) and spin it again several revolutions. The 50/50 mix or any oil will work as fuel and you do not want to risk that with a pressure gauge because it will become a hand grenade NO JOKE.

Then go through and do a compression test again. If you cant break 220 in all 8 cylinders- that engine comes apart on the stand to see if it is worth rebuilding because installation is a complete waste of time.
 
Well boys.

I should state, the engine compression test eas done (if i remember correctly, as its been 2 years) on the back of a pickup, on its side (obviously the motor was off). That motor was.....yeah...

As for the differentials, I replaced both fluids, cleaned up the gears with brake cleaner, etc, filled it with 75w90 Gear Oil (GL5) since I do live in a colder environment, and well, its been chugging along ever since

I will see what he wants to do with the motor, it was a "gift" in a sense, the deal was, if i bought the K5 (454 Suburban bro was SALIVATING at it when he laid eyes on it) and gave him the spare 6.2, that any and all work on my K5 that he would assist me in, would be done for the low low price of free ninety-nine! so truthfully.....its his issue now 🤷‍♂️. Still, I know he wants to install it in an OBS truck he has laying around, so we shall see how that goes.
 
Off topic. As of last week, every morning the temperature of when I start the 6.2 up has been around 25-35°F though it does go up to 45-50°F by mid-day.

When would be a good time to switch to 5w40 or 10w30 oil? Im in SD, and the winters here (which is approaching) are brutal, so im trying to get a head start on winterization of the 6.2 as best as I can

Unfortunately, a block heater is out of the question, I ran a cord one time through my window, got a good talking to for that one.....
 
I run 5-W40 year round.
15-W40 had been run for many years.
It was the oil that was available.
Many diesel engines run 250,000 plus miles on that old dino oil.
After the 5-W40 came out I made a call to Shell about the spread between the numbers being over 25.
I was told by One of their technician that the synthetic blend is just fine with that wide of a spread.
I didnt give it a second thought, just switched over with over 260,000 on that engine and had no problems.
Many talk about the leaks that will happen and a lot of blah blah blah nonsense. I do believe leaks and problems could occur but until I try it and give it the test then I wont get involved in nay say.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I run 5-W40 year round.
15-W40 had been run for many years.
It was the oil that was available.
Many diesel engines run 250,000 plus miles on that old dino oil.
After the 5-W40 came out I made a call to Shell about the spread between the numbers being over 25.
I was told by One of their technician that the synthetic blend is just fine with that wide of a spread.
I didnt give it a second thought, just switched over with over 260,000 on that engine and had no problems.
Many talk about the leaks that will happen and a lot of blah blah blah nonsense. I do believe leaks and problems could occur but until I try it and give it the test then I wont get involved in nay say.
Click to expand...
I was going to say, I run 15w40 almost always, heck, I even ran it like that last winter (i know, I know) but if 5w40 really is that harmless.....shoot, maybe its time to switch to it.

I currently use Rotella T6 Synthetic Oil
 
Yup 5w50 Rotella T6 year round. and if needed get you a 300+ watt solar panel to mount on the roof with a battery pack in the back. run that to a block heater. that is something I was thinking about for mine. having a block heater on a thermostat along with a battery tender running off a solar panel. you can get them used off the marketplace reasonably priced where folks remove them from their homes and sell them. might need two but there should be plenty room up top for two. Plus they will provide some shade on the roof keeping some of the heat out in the summer.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yup 5w50 Rotella T6 year round. and if needed get you a 300+ watt solar panel to mount on the roof with a battery pack in the back. run that to a block heater. that is something I was thinking about for mine. having a block heater on a thermostat along with a battery tender running off a solar panel. you can get them used off the marketplace reasonably priced where folks remove them from their homes and sell them. might need two but there should be plenty room up top for two. Plus they will provide some shade on the roof keeping some of the heat out in the summer.
Click to expand...
Probably have to install a battery pack and an invertor so the block heater could function in tue dark.
For me it was always that morning start before the commute to work during the chill of the eastern Montana winters that the block heater was required.
 
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