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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

While heading to AZ last week the A/C started blowing just cooler than outside air. Checked before adding any 134 and the pressure gauge was pegged RED. We bled off a lot of pressure and brought it back up into the safe zone. Blows cold now, not just cooler than scorching. Currently at El Mirage to make another attempt at establishing a record tomorrow or dirt for small diesel powered Streamliner H/DS. Hope the weather gurus are right about the winds calming down. Currently 30mph….
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Paveltolz said:
While heading to AZ last week the A/C started blowing just cooler than outside air. Checked before adding any 134 and the pressure gauge was pegged RED. We bled off a lot of pressure and brought it back up into the safe zone. Blows cold now, not just cooler than scorching. Currently at El Mirage to make another attempt at establishing a record tomorrow or dirt for small diesel powered Streamliner H/DS. Hope the weather gurus are right about the winds calming down. Currently 30mph….
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Dang it man, You get to have all the phun.
Need some help ?
Oh wait, I’m going back to working Monday, save the leave time for Ohio or Alaska or some such. 😹
 
A short while ago I posted somewhere here about my left rear wheel locking up and causing pull to the left under moderate to heavy braking. I finally got around to adjusting the rear brakes. I only adjusted the right rear which needed quite a bit of adjustment. That corrected the pulling problem and the pedal height is significantly higher.
 
Filled up this am at $3.63 for diesel, because of Iran’s threat to close the Hormuz Strait. If they try, I think they will lose their entire navy. No other country in the Middle East wants to see the Hormuz Strait closed.

I did a mpg calculation based on the full and I average 17.3. This was not pure highway miles as there was some driving in town.

I checked the oil level and it was at the top line on the dipstick. I had changed the oil before my trip up to Montana and have now put 1,700 miles on this oil change. I will change it at 2700 miles or 247K, which is just 1,000 miles more.
 
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The window on the liftgate to my wife's 2014 4Runner started to bind up such that it would not go all the way up. To make matters worse, the button is in the center console and the dog has a habit of stepping on it. He also was able to hit the unlock button on driver's side door AND step on the button for the liftgate window, leaving it stuck down while my wife was on a trip in southern Utah, resulting in a whole lot of complaining from my wife.

Researched the matter on https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/ and the conclusion was that the regulator sub-assembly, a system of cables and pulleys that the motor moves to raise and lower the window, gets all rusty and cruddy from water dripping down past the window seal. Once it starts binding, the window will stop and reverse or just bind and stop. There are posts where the cable frayed and bound up the main drive pulley. So I ordered a Toyota OEM regulator sub-assembly.

Regulator sub-assembly arrived yesterday and I installed it today in about two hours. Old assembly was rusty, but the cables were not frayed, though they were definitely gacked up in their cable sheaths. Did a couple tests and it went partially up, then down, then fully up, then down, then fully up and it stopped, locked in the up position. The regulator motor seemed very weak and I suspected that was the problem, but before I buy a replacement, I'd like to check the fuse, but can't find a fuse box in the cab and the manual does not provide location and listing of fuses.

Went out to check the fuse box in the engine bay, but there is no specific listing for window motors. Went and checked the other windows and they all worked. Then I checked the liftgate window. It went half-way down to a hard stop. The other way it goes fully up, every time. Took the panel off and observed from inside the trunk area while my wife operated the window. The cable on the driver's side had slipped under a nylon slide at the midpoint of the track. Repositioned the cable on where it should be on top of the slide and now it goes fully down and up as designed, repeatedly. Regulator sub-assembly was $144 plus shipping. People in the thread were saying they got quoted $1,300 from a dealer to replace both the motor and regulator sub-assembly. I just paid myself well today. With this out of the way, maybe now I'll get in some fly fishing.
 
Am I cursed or blessed?

I was inflating the rear tires after installing balance beads in the tires. Heard what sounded like truck falling off the jack stands, but that was not the case. Shut the engine down and inspected the engine. Found the serp belt completely loose and off the PS pulley. Go to reinstall it and there’s no tensioner pulley. The tensioner broke.

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Extremely luck this happened in the driveway. I’ve lost the pulley before out near Rome, OR which is basically the middle of nowhere. There was a wreck yard there and I was able to harvest a pulley. I have never seen the tensioner itself break. I checked alternator, ac compressor, fan and power steering pump, and all spin freely.

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This literally happened in front of the house. I restarted the tuck and pulled it to in front of the existing garage. New AC Delco Gold Tensioner arriving tomorrow from Amazon.
 
Big T said:
Am I cursed or blessed?

I was inflating the rear tires after installing balance beads in the tires. Heard what sounded like truck falling off the jack stands, but that was not the case. Shut the engine down and inspected the engine. Found the serp belt completely loose and off the PS pulley. Go to reinstall it and there’s no tensioner pulley. The tensioner broke.

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Extremely luck this happened in the driveway. I’ve lost the pulley before out near Rome, OR which is basically the middle of nowhere. There was a wreck yard there and I was able to harvest a pulley. I have never seen the tensioner itself break. I checked alternator, ac compressor, fan and power steering pump, and all spin freely.

View attachment 94678

This literally happened in front of the house. I restarted the tuck and pulled it to in front of the existing garage. New AC Delco Gold Tensioner arriving tomorrow from Amazon.
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Wow, that was a fortunate mis-hap.
Not fortunate that you had to spend more money but fortunate on the location.
I do have a good pulley that I had removed from an arm that wasnt holding up so good some more. The pulley had been replaced and I put maybe 10,000 on the new pulley when the tensioner arm started hammering and squeaking.
New tensioner had new pulley so I saved that.
Maybe I should place that new pulley into the ammo box of spare parts and tools that I pack on the road.
 
I’ve had the pulley go out on a road trip. Should have known as it was a reaching. It went out on a downgrade with canyon walls on both sides. Lost power steering and brakes. Basically coasted down the grade until I got onto open flat area with a pull off on the old Oregon trail. It was scorching hot. Finally able to flag down a Highway Patrol and get a call in to get a tow about 20 miles up the road to Rome, OR. There was a salvage yard there where I was able to scavenge a pulley. I replaced the pulley with new one after we got to the Boise area. So this tensioner was original with 247K miles on it.

P.S. Got the balance beads in all 4 tires. Some gulped it down through the valve stem, while at least one took an hour to do. All are inflated and we’ll see how it does once I have the new tensioner. I’ll be fishing tomorrow as I don’t know when the tensioner will arrive and it would be a waste to wait around for it.
 
MrMarty51 said:
@Big T
Curious about those balance beads.
I have heard good about them, never any bad that I remember.
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I had try it. After adjusting the rear brakes to correct the brake pull and rapidly locking rear left wheel, I suddenly got a rapid fire pulse vibration on heavy stops from 70 mph on down. It’s not the drums. Everything I read, based on the vibration at speed, it’s due to out of balance tires. Tires are brand new and were purchased online from Tire Rack and had them mounted by Tire Rama in Missoula. I do not see weights on the outside of three of the wheels. The weights could have flown off. So I decided to try the balance beads and they offer kits that you can pump through the valve stem. Trust me, the easy way is to just dump a bag in the tire while mounting it.
 
Have had hood release issues that have gotten worse over the last year so addressed that issue along with a few other things behind the grille as well as the grille itself. Since I have the truck in a kinda of hold status for an eventual paint job, the lower valance over the bumper that holds the grille is AWOL so the grille rattles. Sorted that out with some strategically placed rubber pads.
Removed and cleaned the release mechanism, tightened / shortened the cable and pulled some on the hood spring. Issue solved.
Wanted to paint the bright aluminum oil cooler so addressed that with the grille removed. Notice the horn was looking rough and replaced it as well. Yes, I did another coat of paint and I used ceramic paint.
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Upon reassembly I notice the corner lights were toast so, I decided to just replace the whole grille with the one having aluminum inserts as it had a new set of the LED corner lights already inserted.
Old
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I got them off the Jungle site if anyone is interested
IMG_0344.jpegMore stuff tomorrow as I’m heading up to say howdy to Bill and help get a Carman Gia ready for Speedweek at Bonneville next month.
I was crew chief for it last year and, salt conditions being favorable for an event, this year I hope to make my rookie passes and maybe bump the 36hp record which is currently held by the owner at around 95mph.
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Hey guys, I've been off for a little bit, but still around. just filled up the black truck with fuel this afternoon. Been driving it just about every day even with the worn out engine. funny thing is that my oil consumption has slowed to a crawl now. I really haven't opened the hood in about a month now!

today while driving to work I must have developed a bad connection or short somewhere. gauge cluster started flickering on and off going down the road. also heard some clicking under the dash at the same time. Hoping it's nothing major, doesn't effect the engine or trans. at some point I need to get the AC fixed in the other one so I can take my time finding this short.

Hows everyone else been lately?
 
That little black ground wire is never long enough.
I’ll clip and strip that and add in about eight inches of extension wire of the same gauge.
Then the harness plugs can reach out where I have the extension harnesses from the PMDs located.
Also, I have a spare heat sink and also an extension harness from Leroy Diesel that doesnt require the adapter harness to run the Stanadyne grey box so it will get dismounted from the pump and placed behind the front bumper too.
 
Big T said:
I had try it. After adjusting the rear brakes to correct the brake pull and rapidly locking rear left wheel, I suddenly got a rapid fire pulse vibration on heavy stops from 70 mph on down. It’s not the drums. Everything I read, based on the vibration at speed, it’s due to out of balance tires. Tires are brand new and were purchased online from Tire Rack and had them mounted by Tire Rama in Missoula. I do not see weights on the outside of three of the wheels. The weights could have flown off. So I decided to try the balance beads and they offer kits that you can pump through the valve stem. Trust me, the easy way is to just dump a bag in the tire while mounting it.
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Got the new tensioner installed. I then inspected the serpentine belt and it was cracked and had pieces of ribbing missing. Brought it with me to NAPA and got a 100-5/8" length belt. Initially (before starting and running the truck) the tensioner was far to the driver's side such that mark was outside the range. After running it around a few miles, the mark is now at the other extreme end, so I'm calling it good.

On the test drive, the balance beads seemed to have eliminated the rapid pulsating vibration at speed. Also, further adjustment of the rear brakes has seemed to eliminate the brake pull when stopping from high speed, though heavy stops from 20 mph on down will lock the left rear wheel. It is significantly less now. Spoke with local mechanic on our road and suggested pulling the drums and inspecting for leaks from the axle seal or possible the brake piston. A leak would gum up the dust and potential causing wheels to lock up sooner than the other wheels. So that's next on the to do list.
 
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