93 Truck AC Parts

[dbrannon79]

Today I was thinking about looking at what it would cost me to round up all the parts needed to get the AC working in my 93 since as we say it here in Texas, "Were about to step off from hell's front porch".

I put a parts list together and here is what I have so far, as to my knowledge the AC has not worked since 2009, but I did feel the compressor. it still turns by hand.

1. suction/discharge hoses (metal line has a rub through area)
2. liquid line (same issue)
3. accumulator/dryer (missing)
4. orifice tube
5. seals and o-rings
6. retrofit fitting kit (still is setup for r-12, might go with enviro-safe but still on the fence with that)
7. oil

Looking up all the parts on RA, it seems I can get most everything except for the compressor for right at $100. One thing I did notice was the listing for the receiver/dryer. they show a tapered and a flat bottom. I have no idea which one is needed or if it even makes a difference. mine is completely missing.

 

[dbrannon79]

@RI Chevy Silveradoman Looks like I goofed posting in the 6.2 section! Can you move this thread to the 6.5 section or where it should be please

 

[dbrannon79]

Here is my shopping cart so far....

 

[DieselAmateur]

I'd also replace the condenser, unless you know it was replaced recently. I'm sending one for my '93 over to @Twisted Steel Performance for coating here shortly.

What specifically is in the retrofit kit? The compressor on my '93 is likely original and no good, so I'll be upgrading that too. From what I've seen on here there's some wiring that has to be done and some diode needs to be wired in for the high pressure cutout switch that's on the newer compressors but wasn't on the original '93.

 

[dbrannon79]

The condenser looks factory but is beefier than what's on my 95. the retrofit kit is just a couple of fitting that replace the old threaded r-12 service port so the 134a quick connects on the gauge manifold will connect.

 

[dbrannon79]

I was planning on just flushing everything out. hoping both the condenser and evap was clear. it's been open to the environment for several years, so I'm sure it all will need to be replaced at some point.

I also forgot about some of the 30lb bottles I acquired a while back free off the FB market place. some of the refrigerant I have not heard of before but are old. came from an old barn from what I was told. I do recall googling the numbers on the bottles and finding that one of them was a replacement for old r-12 in stationary appliances. I might look into that more and see if any can be used in the automotive applications. I will have to go back and look to see what the "r-number" was

 

[WarWagon]

but I did feel the compressor. it still turns by hand.

Just replace it now. The R4's are good for maybe one season before they leak --> run low on refrigerant --> fail to return enough oil --> debris glitter bomb the system as a courtesy --> Lock up or make noise.

Maybe in less extreme temps they make it two years.

Seriously post a picture of it. I would inspect the body O ring areas for signs of leaking oil.

 

[dbrannon79]

It's old and crusty. hasn't been in service since 2009 and as far as I know has been missing the dryer since then as well so the whole system has been open to the environment all this time. Just because I can turn the clutch by hand doesn't mean it will work LOL. I am sure the compressor is already dead if not, as soon as I attempt to charge it, it will grenade on me! I figured so long as I install those screen filters they made to save the condenser I might as well see if it will work. Unless I can scrounge up some extra cash and get a new one.

I was thinking about just piecing this one together just so it would work since this truck is at the moment just for "the mean time" while I get the 95 in tip top shape.

Here is the current compressor...

 

[DieselAmateur]

It looks like that compressor has the high pressure cutout switch. As far as I know the original '93 didn't come with the high pressure switch. At least it's not there on mine and I'm certain it's stock. Would you be willing to show some photos of how the newer compressor switch was retrofitted to the stock wiring?

In my opinion you're better off waiting/ saving money for a new compressor. You're just going to waste refrigerant trying to get the old one to function only to have to replace it soon thereafter. They just don't hold up for very long whether in use or not

 

[dbrannon79]

I will look again at the wiring but when I was cleaning up a lot of what the PO did I think I looked over that side of the engine looking for the connector that was MIA for the low pressure cycle switch. everything looked factory. I disco-ed the clutch and folded the connector back in case it tried to turn the compressor on. when I finally found the cycle switch connector that goes on the accumulator, to my surprise it was the small style one like what's on that high cut out switch. I was looking for the older style large connector since it was an r-12 system.

maybe this one has the high cut-out switch here since it doesn't have anything on the condenser like my 95 does. when I had the front grille off I noticed the absence of that switch along with what seemed to be the absence of the ridges in the condenser line where the orifice tube would be along with the lines coming off it were short unlike my 95 were the lower line that has the orifice is long and straight. I didn't give it much look at that time but now that I think about it when I had the inner fender off working on the turbo drain pipe I also recall not seeing where the orifice could be at near the evap under where the accumulator goes.

I might be finding what is a pieced together AC system where the wrong parts were cobbled together and was left like this after whoever was doing it figured out it wasn't gonna work without a place to put the orifice tube! if my memory serves me right, the fitting threads will go together for the liquid line from an newer truck and an older condenser that had the orifice up under the accumulator! This might turn into a real adventure having to replace everything and costing more $$ that I want to spend LOL

Might be cheaper to install a beer window and shove a window unit in with a generator HAHA... Hillbilly style

 

[dbrannon79]

I scoured through my phone looking for a photo I took hoping I had one showing the lines on the condenser. this one pic was all I had. I do recall the lower line is shorter than whats on the 95. looking at this pic, this line is also not straight. I don't remember if it was but I doubt it was long enough even if it were to be bent straight to physically fit an orifice tube here, but I might be wrong. I have slept since I took the pic and I wasn't really paying much attention to the AC!

Here is what I took, it's a side view when I was wanting to see what I needed to straighten the fender. I also screenshotted it zooming in on that lower line.

 

[jrsavoie]

I will look again at the wiring but when I was cleaning up a lot of what the PO did I think I looked over that side of the engine looking for the connector that was MIA for the low pressure cycle switch. everything looked factory. I disco-ed the clutch and folded the connector back in case it tried to turn the compressor on. when I finally found the cycle switch connector that goes on the accumulator, to my surprise it was the small style one like what's on that high cut out switch. I was looking for the older style large connector since it was an r-12 system.

maybe this one has the high cut-out switch here since it doesn't have anything on the condenser like my 95 does. when I had the front grille off I noticed the absence of that switch along with what seemed to be the absence of the ridges in the condenser line where the orifice tube would be along with the lines coming off it were short unlike my 95 were the lower line that has the orifice is long and straight. I didn't give it much look at that time but now that I think about it when I had the inner fender off working on the turbo drain pipe I also recall not seeing where the orifice could be at near the evap under where the accumulator goes.

I might be finding what is a pieced together AC system where the wrong parts were cobbled together and was left like this after whoever was doing it figured out it wasn't gonna work without a place to put the orifice tube! if my memory serves me right, the fitting threads will go together for the liquid line from an newer truck and an older condenser that had the orifice up under the accumulator! This might turn into a real adventure having to replace everything and costing more $$ that I want to spend LOL

Might be cheaper to install a beer window and shove a window unit in with a generator HAHA... Hillbilly style

We used to put a window unit in the 89 Suburban. It worked great

 

[dbrannon79]

LOl I sure would look funny running down the road with a window unit hanging out from one of the back doors HAHA. I could even get fancy just having the unit strapped in the bed and run some duct (pvc pipe or something to withstand the wind) in to each window.

Honestly a little $100 5k btu unit would most likely do fine to cool the cab and I could run that off an inverter and let the alternator keep the battery charged LOL If this truck actually had a beer window in the back I would do this.

 

[WarWagon]

It's old and crusty. hasn't been in service since 2009 and as far as I know has been missing the dryer since then as well so the whole system has been open to the environment all this time. Just because I can turn the clutch by hand doesn't mean it will work LOL. I am sure the compressor is already dead if not, as soon as I attempt to charge it, it will grenade on me! I figured so long as I install those screen filters they made to save the condenser I might as well see if it will work. Unless I can scrounge up some extra cash and get a new one.

I was thinking about just piecing this one together just so it would work since this truck is at the moment just for "the mean time" while I get the 95 in tip top shape.

Here is the current compressor...

View attachment 87525View attachment 87526

The High Pressure switch is either a (most likely) retrofit to R134a or a Factory 134a system. 1993 was a weird year for that I read.

This compressor will immediately start leaking again like it has in the past. The black buildup of dirt is sticking to A/C oil that leaked out. The body orings appear to have been leaking where the black steel meets the aluminum ends. It may hold a charge 24 hours...

The condenser may be compromised, leaking/cracked, from being bent up. Good luck getting the orifice tube out as is should be on the outlet of the condenser.

 

[dbrannon79]

Yeah, your right @WarWagon, I was trying to remember when they started using 134A. I had 96 stuck in my head but then I snapped as my 95 is 134A. it was introduced in late 92 and was in full use by mid 93. iirc GM was the first to use 134A since they were partnered with dupont. this truck has to be factory 134A, GM was doing goofy things then. what gave me the clue it was R12 was the old threaded service ports on the lines, but in the very beginning of 134A they hadn't quite used up all the old stock parts so some if GM vehicles got the old parts installed.

The condenser is fatter with the inner tubes being larger (old R12 design) so even if I were to possibly save this condenser, it would not cool very well simply because it won't be able to shed off the heat from 134A like the newer ones can. The compressor has a "R-12" tag on it and looking at the part number, it's a remanufactured unit as well. Total junk, the entire system will need to be replaced and updated to the newer style for it to work properly. way more than I want to spend, I was just getting my hopes up to have a working ac for this summer.

Maybe, and that's a big maybe. If I end up replacing the compressor and condenser on the 95, doing it right, I might consider saving the parts to use in this truck. The 95 will hold a charge and work fine for about 2 months until I have to add a can, the compressor leaks from the body and front housing o-ring (not the shaft seal). if it doesn't grenade before then and get tossed in the scrap bin before then.

Although if I do happen to run across a rear window that has the infamous "beer" sliding window for sale cheap on market place or in the pick a part yard, I have a spare small window unit I can use... HAHA.