Recent content by JayTheCPA

IIRC, E40D remains the weak link, although I also recall that there are companies able to correct the OE shortfalls of this tranny. Ferd's van configurations tend to make the engine bay more challenging for maintenance. The E-350 and 2500 Burb are probably about equal for hauling. Rear...

I'm doing this on my early generation Ferd SD to correct a few OE items, including an attraction to rust. Currently have the truck completely stripped and feel like a teenager on a first date: What do I do now...??? Interestingly, close to 98% of the vehicle disassembled with a 1/4" socket set...

Last I looked (a little over a year ago), the new diesel Burb that people are salivating over is just a 1500 with 14K GCVW. Meh... Ferd wins in this market segment with the gas twin turbo, although this is not all that great an achievement as this ride is just a car in SUV clothing. Even the...

Here is a thought. Take a look at the GMT-800 3/4 ton Burb as Will suggested. Or better yet, the GMT-900 with a 6L80. Sure, the current Burb is workable, after making changes. But, unless the GMT-800 or GMT-900 3/4 ton Burb is clapped-out, it needs nothing in terms of upgrades to meet the...

Wait... WHAT?!?!?!?

Agree that it proves what we already knew. Those looking for more psi are merely blowing hot air. Oh and about loosening up the TCC to reduce lag. Meh... A Man Pedal will fix that 🤠

Cuz the cost of oats has gone up, of course...!

Yup, Dryvit got a bad reputation, but am not convinced it was the actual product's fault. IIRC, Dryvit was a type of stucco on home exteriors. Problem was the overall system where many installations were not correct. Problems occurred when either foam or wood backing extended below the plaster...

IIRC, no differences in the hand shakers' gears. Ferd would do different gearsets depending fuel, but do not recall that GM did this. And the NV4500 should bolt-up no matter what the engine's fuel type just as long as it is from about the same era. While there are still 6.5s out there, think...

Requirements are a b1tch, right ? 🤣 Welcome back!

Consider letting analysis drive this decision. If switching too early while particulate generation remains high, using turns into an expensive adventure due to the shorter duration of the change interval. Once analysis supports at least 5Kmi intervals, then go for the switch.

Like this?

Ok, I'll go ahead an toss in a thought about break-in and the rings. Am seeing where goal is less about varying the RPM and more about heat / cool cycles for the rings. Am more convinced that the "vary the RPM" advice is just a crude means for getting a heat / cool cycle for the rings as...

Good plan on sticking with dyno oil for now. Rotella is certainly a good blend. For the first 5,000 I went with STP in my recent engine replacement. At almost 4 gallons per oil change, I wanted a compromise of good enough reputation and price. So STP for the win during break-in.

Just from the title, I was a little suspicious whether the 2.0 TDI would fit in a bug. And, it didn't. But at least the mod can boast a Porsche whale tale as the rear cover now has to stick out in the slipstream :) Am curious how the coolant was plumbed as IIRC the 2.0 TDI needs water and not...