Gotcha I’m using an old snap on scanner so I thought that would give me the data I needed but looks like I’m missing a lot I’ll take a video of all the data it will give me so maybe y’all can see something I’m not. As for the turning of the pump itself it that just tightening the solenoid or is...
So that’s the thing this engines done decent up until this point being my daily for the last year it’s already had the oil lines replaced fluid damper harmonic balancer got the turbo master for manual boost setup and to clarify I only put about 300 so far so not too happy but not devastated...
That’s what I was afraid of from the beginning any suggestions on where to grab a used pump or maybe back to engine swap idea as lowest I’ve found pumps is like 750
So lots of interesting things happened today tried to get it started without the cam sensor plugged in but couldn’t get the rpm’s above 165 bc the batteries were low but did notice it said pcm in vtd fail but the vtd fuel disable was off Not sure if that has anything to do with anything. BUT...
Fuel sample I took also looked a little more on the blue green side rather than a yellow deep straw colored fuel like I can get from shell I know the optical sensor needs straw colored fuel should I run the more straw colored fuel from a separate container?
Ok I see what you’re saying I’ve got the next two days off so I plan on getting a solid charge and running a list of tests done. starting with what seems to be a consensus of the crank sensor test then I’m going to see what the pressure looks like to the pump itself/ try cracking the injectors...
So looked at the fuel shutoff at the advice of another forum and it was in working order but noticed the hose next to it, or maybe the shutoff itself if I looked at it wrong, is leaking fuel then found a ton of fuel in the valley from what I could tell there has to be a second leak to cause that...