Recent content by dbrannon79

I have thought about looking for one for my son's 68 chevy. he's been thinking about installing that TH-400 but I told him other than getting an automatic that's heavy duty, there'd be no gain for highway gears. He would have to find a 700r4 or a 200r4 if he wanted OD. then the thought...

The one I have in the 93 was used when the PO bought it. might be able to find one used on market place. even if you find one with a different housing to the trans, you can get the housing from GV and still be ahead except for warranty!

Make sure you have the right pressure switch on the compressor. mine had a clutch cut out switch which I had to trade for the iirc purple connector switch that was for a 454 gasser truck with the electric condenser fan.

I will have to look at it, from what I recall I powered the ac on and one side has power on the connector. connect the non-powered side to the controller.

I believe they do. iirc it can mount on the transfer case or be a separate unit with a short drive shaft to the t-case/trans. there is wiring for the controller that will "lock out" the front diff function when it's in use, but that is for the electronic 4x4 systems. Here is the...

Honestly between my 95 which has 3.73's and the 93 that has 4.10's with the gear vendors OD. I prefer the gear vendors unit. you get the best of both worlds. towing power and highway cruising at low RPM. My 95 has larger tires and with the 3.73's the RPM is still higher than with the 93...

I've been running this one from Hayden since 2023 without any issues on my 95. Though I did drill and tap 1/8" threads in my crossover. it has a trigger wire that ties into the AC so the fan is on when the compressor is running. I have that wired into the fan pressure switch off the back of...

Yeah I I think that is the best bet here. I was reading about the select fit bearings. it sounded complicated to me. from what I understood from it was they take different thickness bearings, could be used on the cap or the opposite side too, but the factory was the only ones that did that. I...

I need to find the tolerance specs, I know most engines have a factory spec and a max tolerance and still be ok. one question I would have is, is there a thickness measurement of the bearings where I could tell how much gain there would be with new or how thick they should be.

Plastigauge... do I need to clean the oil off the bearings and crank before using? I assume it's a wax compound, brake cleaner to get it off once used? I need to look up a video on how it's used.

I wanted to get you guys some pics of the bearings. I have only pulled the rear main cap and the front main cap. wiped them down with a blue paper shop towel for the pics, then sprayed some wd-40 over the crank journal and caps since we have another heavy rain storm threatening to come...

How does one offset it? not talking about the rotation of the seal, but the lip where it rides the crank. there is one that the lip is set back about 2mm for the gassers of this era. I didn't see one shown for the diesels. Here is a screenshot that I took on one of the videos I watched...

I did pull the rear main cap to just to looksee. there is some wear but not into the copper. I was going to see how difficult it would be to replace the two piece rear main, but haven't tried removing that yet. I would assume that the worst wear would be on the first main cap by the timing...

Don't plan on pulling the pistons. the bores are decent but do have a slight ring ridge. I would have to cut that ridge to pull pistons. I was losing all the compression through the valves. on the heads that were on it, I found one valve seat that was completely fubar and all the rest just...

The other side to this is should I leave them alone since I'm not having the block machined? I did take a screwdriver and attempt to move the crank back n forth. it did move but ever so slightly, not much. I know the rear main cap will need to come off to replace the rear main seal since...