Recent content by dbrannon79

you can always keep the ones you just made as spares/mockup units and re-make them with any added design changes from stainless, then wrap those LOL 🤪

Hallelujah! one hour spent and loads of heart ache avoided! wish you well and safe travels on your trip.

Nice!! question, how low does that crossover hang (from the ground) I assume you are planning for suspension lift or tall tires for offroad shenanigans.

Dude, it's not if but when it will snap your block. that "bro" doesn't know much about these diesels and it shows! the best way to get at that bracket is to lift the front end so you have some wiggle room, pull the front tire off so you can get in there. that bracket has got to be...

Excuse my language but HOLY SHIT!!!! get that bracket installed ASAP!!! or else risk a cracked and busted block. my 95 is "still" living proof you need that bracket. the mounting ear on my block that holds the starter broke out and was welded back, threads were toast and was heli-coiled...

Just for shitz and grinns, you don't happen to still have that noise filter connected to the optic sensor in the harness do you? it will be a short harness with a small black box inline, one end connects direct to the optic sensor and the other end to the truck harness. if so, remove it and...

One of the pins on the obd connector is for the light. you can probe a test light there to ground and count flashes that way too! a small ultrasonic cleaner is available on the jungle site for around $40. I use mine a lot. went with the one that has mechanical dials over the digital ones...

Here is a method to read codes by shorting the two pins. although this guide says to short pins A and B, iirc on my 95 I used A and M. https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/6.5-diesel-obd-dtc.html Code 31 is for the EGR.

Honestly I have never heard of cleaning or replacing the optic sensor with the IP still in the engine, not sure if that is possible without having to re-time the IP. if it was or is visibly dirty, how it the condition of the fuel? these IP's cannot run off from colored fuel like red farm use...

Welcome @bigred95

I would also check timing, there is a simple procedure to "check" and see if it might need adjustment. @Will and @ak diesel driver can explain it to make better sense than I can, but it's basically amounts to this.... get the engine fully warm first. then look with a flashlight on the...

Nice work! the only thing I would be worried about for the future is the flex joints. when the day comes they start leaking and you need to replace. iirc they make them with v band flanges so that they could easily be replaced, wonder if you have clearance for that though. Though on my 95...

just an idea too, is a bolt on brace for the turbo or manifold at the turbo flange to the head or block to help support the weight of the turbo. the constant shake and heat cycles could put too much on the exhaust port flange causing it to bend over time creating a leak point.

On your flange, that arched section connecting to the next port almost looks as if it might make things harder to work around the GP's. wonder if once the headers are done, you could cut each section out so each port is separated? the flange is good n flat in those area so you could also...

@Big T measure the diameter on the groves of the pulley, those two looked the same in your photo. the fans should be the same between the CS-130 and the 144 so you could swap them too. and iirc there should have been a spacer on the cs-130 that you can use for it as well.