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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

No, I didn't even think about the egg trick. yesterday evening after dropping some black pepper and topping it off it seemed to hold and from the looks of it, it stopped leaking almost right away! I will know for sure after work today, I have been normally getting a small puddle within a few minutes of parking in the driveway. it will usually leak until the pressure dissipates on the cooling system. I spotted the leak a couple weeks ago coming from the water jacket area on the passenger side top of the timing cover against the block near where the turbo oil line connects on the block.

What I'm afraid of is me tearing it down only to find that the timing cover aluminum housing in that area is rotted away and will be in need of a replacement cover. When I do get to the point of repairing or replacing the engine, I will need to look for another timing cover to have available. I know the one on the 6.2 I have is not the same since it doesn't have to port for the crank sensor.
 
Big T said:
Just a short 10 hour drive today to Paveltolz’s place where I completed the Red, White, and Blue 6.5 lineup:
View attachment 98661

My ‘99 Burb still has vibration issues in the front. Has vibration while braking coming front right front. It increases from subtle while lightly braking, to a heavy shudder under heavy braking. It’s like the rotor is cracked, if I didn’t know better. It also increases as the brakes heat up. The rotors are worn and have a good lip on the outer edge. Pads have about 1/3 left. I will replace rotors and pads while up at the Montana home.

The service 4wd light came on during the trip and the light went out on the push button shift after shutting down for a break. Checked fuse and it’s fine. I suspect the 4wd actuator went out. I will test that while in Montana.

Paveltolz plugged in his Tech 2 and it had 3 codes. One was for low ECT. I saw it drop to 170 or 165 on a long downhill grade in CA early am.

Also had the following codes:
View attachment 98662
View attachment 98663

Not sure what those are about. We cleared all the codes and will see if they come back.

Up early tomorrow for the 8 hour drive to Montana. Anniversary was today but will celebrate tomorrow. I’m beat.
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Installed new 195 thermostats for which the specs said they start to open at 190. Per my dash temp, it gets to 187.5 then quickly drops back to 185. The Service Engine Soon light went off by itself. So I conclude that the Engine Coolant issue is back to normal.

During my test drive, the braking is back to normal. No more vibration. Furthermore, no wheel vibration in the front at speeds above 70 mph. I conclude that those issues have been addressed.

Remaining issues: 1) address transfer case shifting, 2) install fresh reman ABS pump module. I will let Wayne at Eagle Watch automotive do these tasks.
 
Big T said:
Installed new 195 thermostats for which the specs said they start to open at 190. Per my dash temp, it gets to 187.5 then quickly drops back to 185. The Service Engine Soon light went off by itself. So I conclude that the Engine Coolant issue is back to normal
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I currently have the 190 stats in the housing on my enjun.
I’m thinking that it should have 195s in there.
IDK what a difference it would make though.
 
Today I Installed the exhaust from the muffler back. From the muffler forward it’s still in good shape, so those pieces went into storage in the basement.

Also pulled the brand new and freshly overheated rear brake drums. New drums and shoes arrive Tuesday. Very heavy work week. Will be lucky to work on this after work.
 
Big T said:
Today I Installed the exhaust from the muffler back. From the muffler forward it’s still in good shape, so those pieces went into storage in the basement.

Also pulled the brand new and freshly overheated rear brake drums. New drums and shoes arrive Tuesday. Very heavy work week. Will be lucky to work on this after work.
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If getting them overheated drums reconditioned, dont let them do it on a lathe. Cutting tool just jumps over those hard spots.
It takes a sander or a grinder to cut out those blued spots.
 
Big T said:
Put the new brake drums on today and braking is back to normal. Will take the Suburban over to our local mechanic to have him install the ABS Modulator Pump and work through the transfer case shifting.
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My Suburban is next in line after he finishes redoing the head gaskets and heads on a Duramax. It was interesting to see the Duramax engine with the cab and heads off. Head gaskets started leaking at just 150K miles.
 
Finally got around to installing / swapping out the return fuel lines on the injectors. To re-hash, I purchased the Delphi Injector installation kit and the return line hose failed several times on the 5 and 7 injectors. Failed as in split apart.

I noticed when replacing the upper intake that there were two bolt holes on the lower intake that weren't going to hold 17lbs torque so I had planned to do HeliCoil inserts to correct that issue. Well, It wasn't until I had finished the process that I realized that the M8 kit I had in the tool box was actually an M10 kit. I have a kit for M6 in the box too and, well, 'No Excuse Sir.' Heck, I didn't even have an M8 kit...Yup, face palm.

I have another lower intake only one of the ears is busted from someone not getting the return line out from under the back corner of #7 on a previous reinstallation.

I found these M10 x 1.5 - M8 x 1.25 serts / thread repair inserts by Patkil on the Jungle Site and will sort out the boo boo on Tuesday. I got them in two lengths, 15 and 25mm for the corners and the middle holes.
1776033134020.png
Bill offered to send me one of the few he has laying around but, with even crappy looking units going on E-Bay between $260 and $400 plus shipping, he could make some money off those. I'm just going to own this one. Another friend has offered to weld up the broken ear on the spare but, being between moves, his gear is spread out between two locations so that's on hold. So, in the meantime, I'll just deal with the repaired units...until my CDO (OCD with the letters in the right order) takes over reason and practicality.
 
Paveltolz said:
Finally got around to installing / swapping out the return fuel lines on the injectors. To re-hash, I purchased the Delphi Injector installation kit and the return line hose failed several times on the 5 and 7 injectors. Failed as in split apart.

I noticed when replacing the upper intake that there were two bolt holes on the lower intake that weren't going to hold 17lbs torque so I had planned to do HeliCoil inserts to correct that issue. Well, It wasn't until I had finished the process that I realized that the M8 kit I had in the tool box was actually an M10 kit. I have a kit for M6 in the box too and, well, 'No Excuse Sir.' Heck, I didn't even have an M8 kit...Yup, face palm.

I have another lower intake only one of the ears is busted from someone not getting the return line out from under the back corner of #7 on a previous reinstallation.

I found these M10 x 1.5 - M8 x 1.25 serts / thread repair inserts by Patkil on the Jungle Site and will sort out the boo boo on Tuesday. I got them in two lengths, 15 and 25mm for the corners and the middle holes.
View attachment 98933
Bill offered to send me one of the few he has laying around but, with even crappy looking units going on E-Bay between $260 and $400 plus shipping, he could make some money off those. I'm just going to own this one. Another friend has offered to weld up the broken ear on the spare but, being between moves, his gear is spread out between two locations so that's on hold. So, in the meantime, I'll just deal with the repaired units...until my CDO (OCD with the letters in the right order) takes over reason and practicality.
Click to expand...
I’m at a loss as to what you’re talking about here?
 
Big T said:
There should be tons of 6.5 lower intakes out there in salvage.
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There are seemingly a bunch out there and a lot in Canada ($$$ for shipping I'm sure). What I saw were either 'Call for price' or between 125 for the upper and 250 for the lower and most sites aren't differentiating between the two. The yards I called yesterday are closed until Monday. E-Bay, as I mentioned, had listings that start at $250 with shipping as high as $150. Too many aren't for side mount turbos.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I've been told this before but on something that has a manual trans. Wouldn't something that's been in front of an automatic hardly have thrust wear?
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Yes. There is very little fore/aft shift of the crankshaft with auto trans. The force of the clutch throw out bearing generates a lot of wear on the thrust bearing on the crankshaft center bearing.
 
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