ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
How many hours a day won't make any difference. You could run it 24/7. It's the speed that'll get you.
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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles
- Thread starter nycxjeremyy
- Start date
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- Tags
- 6.2 maintenance
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Im so used to driving sports cars
But youre right, I shouldn't go past 65? 75? 80 max?
Besides, no race this time, once I head home, its on my own time, thats it, im out, no reporting time or anything, shoot, sure its for med stuff, but, damn, this still....oh well.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Depends on your gear ratio etc. you want to keep rpms 2000-2300
Will L.
Well-Known Member
How soon do you make the move?
If you don’t have towing on your insurance- you might pony up for it now. Them cancel it once in NY a few bucks on insurance might be worth it if you aer really concerned- however most shops don’t know these old diesels so you have to check that before they pick which shop to tow to.
These engines are stout to run if not ran too hard. 65mph is probably tops you should be running at. A lot of hmmwvs running the 6.2 with 3 speed trans stay at max of 55mph, pretty sure your truck is geared better than them
Just remember: the guy honking behind you isn’t gonna help push the broke doen truck & not help pay for parts if you let him push you too fast. So take it easy on the way.
If ya have a 750-1000w (bigger is great) generator, those are great on camping trips to fire up and plug the block heater in. Keep in touch about the trip, I’ll PM you my number to call incase anything pops up along the way.
Obviously haul your tools with you and any spare parts ya have.
If you don’t have towing on your insurance- you might pony up for it now. Them cancel it once in NY a few bucks on insurance might be worth it if you aer really concerned- however most shops don’t know these old diesels so you have to check that before they pick which shop to tow to.
These engines are stout to run if not ran too hard. 65mph is probably tops you should be running at. A lot of hmmwvs running the 6.2 with 3 speed trans stay at max of 55mph, pretty sure your truck is geared better than them
Just remember: the guy honking behind you isn’t gonna help push the broke doen truck & not help pay for parts if you let him push you too fast. So take it easy on the way.
If ya have a 750-1000w (bigger is great) generator, those are great on camping trips to fire up and plug the block heater in. Keep in touch about the trip, I’ll PM you my number to call incase anything pops up along the way.
Obviously haul your tools with you and any spare parts ya have.
I'm going to be blunt here...
You own a truck you don't know much about and it sounds like you can't work on it on your own.
You should consider selling it and buying a plane ticket home then get in another sport car, something you are use to and move on...
You own a truck you don't know much about and it sounds like you can't work on it on your own.
You should consider selling it and buying a plane ticket home then get in another sport car, something you are use to and move on...
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
I know a lot more than I used to back when u first bought it sir
I can do MX stuff, and, mechanical stuff, its just it won't be that quick on my own as opposed to having a hand by me.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Thank you sir, this means alot
I listed my gear ratio and other states in a comment above, hopefully that helps a bit.
And thank you again for your insight
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I wouldn't go over 80. 75 would be better. That thing has some long legs
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I agree with above- Yes 75 mph is ok.
But also- if you keep this rig you will HAVE TO become a proficient mechanic for it. There just aren’t many mechanic shops that deal with these anymore.
The only saving grace is you have a db2 instead of ds4 ip. This is what TSP is reasoning.
When ya get to NY, stay in contact here and expect that this rig will require more frequent and more expensive maintenance than say a Toyota tacoma or F150.
Expect to burn a quart of oil or two during that trip so check the level along the way. Not a bad idea to do an oil change/ lube before you go. Remember the trans, transfer case, & diff levels. Verify belts, hoses, hose clamps, etc are all happy before the trip.
As long as you own it, you need to remember that these older rigs aren’t like 2000 & newer units that you just drive without worry. You stay on-top of inspecting everything, doing the PMs, and still plan on more frequent hiccups.
Make sure you have a list of folks you can call along the way that can play rescue since you’re still learning the repairs.
But also- if you keep this rig you will HAVE TO become a proficient mechanic for it. There just aren’t many mechanic shops that deal with these anymore.
The only saving grace is you have a db2 instead of ds4 ip. This is what TSP is reasoning.
When ya get to NY, stay in contact here and expect that this rig will require more frequent and more expensive maintenance than say a Toyota tacoma or F150.
Expect to burn a quart of oil or two during that trip so check the level along the way. Not a bad idea to do an oil change/ lube before you go. Remember the trans, transfer case, & diff levels. Verify belts, hoses, hose clamps, etc are all happy before the trip.
As long as you own it, you need to remember that these older rigs aren’t like 2000 & newer units that you just drive without worry. You stay on-top of inspecting everything, doing the PMs, and still plan on more frequent hiccups.
Make sure you have a list of folks you can call along the way that can play rescue since you’re still learning the repairs.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Ive made friends with those from the Reddit GC, got a few friends in Minnesota, Michigan, and PA (which is thankfully on the way back east) who own 6.2s (ive met with these guys aswell before)
Did an oil change to 5w40 alongside a transmission fluid and filter change last weekend actually, should be good until then.
Will say, do have access to other vehicles in Ny, still debating if I want to even try and repair the 2001 3.4l impala I have, it misfires and now has backfiring aswell, not sure if its even worth it.
Thank you all again, seriously
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I would say start a thread in the gasoline engine section. But I know those 3.4 eat sparkplugs and when they don’t get changed in time they wile out the coils.
Check your codes. P300 random cylinder misfire, p301 is cylinder 1, p302 is cylinder 2, etc. often just a new set of plugs, using the CORRECT cleaner is critical for map/ maf and never touch with your skin. The oil on skin ruins them as does engine oil, start fluid, wd40, etc. but map/maf shows it’s own code with the others.
There are absolute genius mechanics/ technicians out there who solve problems fast and affordable (long term). But all the years I spent wrenching pro and then as a Mac Tools guy going to many shops- half the wrench spinning guys out there are not anything special as to intelligence, knowledge, or anything else. They just stuck with it and learned what they needed for that week.
Can you make something Brokener? Nope, it’s not a word. It’s already broken, so try. Yes there is a point where paying someone might cost $750 and it takes you $1,800. Guess what- thats price of education. Learn to ask, and learn who to ask are the two biggest things. For the Impala- I am sure there are active forums where guys dedicated to that platform love to help just like us old diesel nut jobs are here.
I would say look up any rig’s value. What you can get out of it as is. What it takes to fix and make your best guess. Your square body- IF YOU KEEP IT FROM RUSTING OUT- will pretty much always hold its value. Just a desirable rig.
If it is gonna rust into nothing in NY- take the money and run. They are usually only valuable if you can put a couple hundred thousand miles on it and that takes most of a rebuild if not the whole thing being rebuilt. But diy you can do it for far less than price of a new truck.
The Impala- kinda a consumable car. If it was a mid 60’s model then worth a mint.
So try testing parts, swap a couple parts but NEVER get rid of old parts until the rig runs perfectly for a week or two because new parts doesn’t mean good parts.
But remember to diagnose, never fire a parts cannon.
Check your codes. P300 random cylinder misfire, p301 is cylinder 1, p302 is cylinder 2, etc. often just a new set of plugs, using the CORRECT cleaner is critical for map/ maf and never touch with your skin. The oil on skin ruins them as does engine oil, start fluid, wd40, etc. but map/maf shows it’s own code with the others.
There are absolute genius mechanics/ technicians out there who solve problems fast and affordable (long term). But all the years I spent wrenching pro and then as a Mac Tools guy going to many shops- half the wrench spinning guys out there are not anything special as to intelligence, knowledge, or anything else. They just stuck with it and learned what they needed for that week.
Can you make something Brokener? Nope, it’s not a word. It’s already broken, so try. Yes there is a point where paying someone might cost $750 and it takes you $1,800. Guess what- thats price of education. Learn to ask, and learn who to ask are the two biggest things. For the Impala- I am sure there are active forums where guys dedicated to that platform love to help just like us old diesel nut jobs are here.
I would say look up any rig’s value. What you can get out of it as is. What it takes to fix and make your best guess. Your square body- IF YOU KEEP IT FROM RUSTING OUT- will pretty much always hold its value. Just a desirable rig.
If it is gonna rust into nothing in NY- take the money and run. They are usually only valuable if you can put a couple hundred thousand miles on it and that takes most of a rebuild if not the whole thing being rebuilt. But diy you can do it for far less than price of a new truck.
The Impala- kinda a consumable car. If it was a mid 60’s model then worth a mint.
So try testing parts, swap a couple parts but NEVER get rid of old parts until the rig runs perfectly for a week or two because new parts doesn’t mean good parts.
But remember to diagnose, never fire a parts cannon.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
On the impala, check that battery.
My best friend, 2005 GMC Acadia or some such, smaller four weel drive. Misfire. He pays the chevy garage to fix it, we git it you can come get it. They replaced ignition module or some $300.00 component.
He drives it for a few days, it starts the misfire with code again. He has to go to Billings. Browns Transmission in Billings changes a temperature sensor. Runs good another day or two, misfire returns.
After paying a couple more shops for shoddy workmanship, he reads on the WWW about the same problem with the exact same vehicle, but the poster is in his own blog explaining this problem and replacing all the same components.
One day out if desperation this mexhabic with the blog tells if taking the vehicle to the parts store, has the battery checked, battery was slightly down, not terrible bad but getting close.
He installs a new battery and voila, misfire is gone and never returns.
My friend goes and gets his battery tested, it too was a little down but had always started the car like normal and never give a problem, he replaced his battery and his misfire too was gone and has not returned in three years, maybe more.
The neighbor across the street is one day telling me about his Dodge van misfire.
I told him to check his battery. He does but battery seems to be okay, in his mode he pulls battery cables, they are clean on the outside, not bad on inside of terminals but then he notices this weird spot inside one of the cable terminals, looks like a tine sort if a burn mark. Cleans it up, misfire is gone.
I could go on about the wifeys 91 Oldsmobile stalling, constantly, but then it fires right back up and away she goes.
I tell her to make the appointment, if its the ignition switch I dont want to have to crawl under the dash to replace that. I go about cleaning battery terminals and grounds. All appears to be good but I sand and scrub any how. Stalling continues.
Last week car goes in. Mechanic finds a ground under the coil pack/ignition module
Has a broke wire at the terminal. He solders in a new terminal, puts it back together, slight misfire, replaces two of the coils and misfire is gone and car runs beautifully.
Okay, I’m done on that derailment for now.
My best friend, 2005 GMC Acadia or some such, smaller four weel drive. Misfire. He pays the chevy garage to fix it, we git it you can come get it. They replaced ignition module or some $300.00 component.
He drives it for a few days, it starts the misfire with code again. He has to go to Billings. Browns Transmission in Billings changes a temperature sensor. Runs good another day or two, misfire returns.
After paying a couple more shops for shoddy workmanship, he reads on the WWW about the same problem with the exact same vehicle, but the poster is in his own blog explaining this problem and replacing all the same components.
One day out if desperation this mexhabic with the blog tells if taking the vehicle to the parts store, has the battery checked, battery was slightly down, not terrible bad but getting close.
He installs a new battery and voila, misfire is gone and never returns.
My friend goes and gets his battery tested, it too was a little down but had always started the car like normal and never give a problem, he replaced his battery and his misfire too was gone and has not returned in three years, maybe more.
The neighbor across the street is one day telling me about his Dodge van misfire.
I told him to check his battery. He does but battery seems to be okay, in his mode he pulls battery cables, they are clean on the outside, not bad on inside of terminals but then he notices this weird spot inside one of the cable terminals, looks like a tine sort if a burn mark. Cleans it up, misfire is gone.
I could go on about the wifeys 91 Oldsmobile stalling, constantly, but then it fires right back up and away she goes.
I tell her to make the appointment, if its the ignition switch I dont want to have to crawl under the dash to replace that. I go about cleaning battery terminals and grounds. All appears to be good but I sand and scrub any how. Stalling continues.
Last week car goes in. Mechanic finds a ground under the coil pack/ignition module
Has a broke wire at the terminal. He solders in a new terminal, puts it back together, slight misfire, replaces two of the coils and misfire is gone and car runs beautifully.
Okay, I’m done on that derailment for now.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Thank you all for the advice. 
Honestly ill have to the take impala with me irregardless, so the way it works for us, TMO pays us to move back to our state of residence when we exit the service, how much it weighs, what we are taking, etc plays a factor, so taking the impala, even if I junk it in the end actually pays more than me not taking purely off how heavy it is. Thing is though, it has to be on those enclosed U-Haul trailers.
My only concern is just that now, ive never towed before, it is a Stage III 4L60E, external transmission cooler, upgraded 4 row aluminum radiator, so its not stock and its improvements will/should help.
I just hope it can even handle it, it'll be on a uhual trailer, if its not possible, let me know yall? Not trying to blow it up just trying to get extra bucks.
Pictured is the K5 in its Christmas glory
Honestly ill have to the take impala with me irregardless, so the way it works for us, TMO pays us to move back to our state of residence when we exit the service, how much it weighs, what we are taking, etc plays a factor, so taking the impala, even if I junk it in the end actually pays more than me not taking purely off how heavy it is. Thing is though, it has to be on those enclosed U-Haul trailers.
My only concern is just that now, ive never towed before, it is a Stage III 4L60E, external transmission cooler, upgraded 4 row aluminum radiator, so its not stock and its improvements will/should help.
I just hope it can even handle it, it'll be on a uhual trailer, if its not possible, let me know yall? Not trying to blow it up just trying to get extra bucks.
Pictured is the K5 in its Christmas glory
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ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I think it will be fine. Just expect to downshift when coming to hills. I would downshift manually instead of flooring it and have the sudden shock of high rpms. You'll learn to anticipate the hills and make everything smooth. Keep an eye on temps!
It's possible you might have to tow in third. Lugging it can be worse than to many rpms. I'd keep it 1600 +, 1800 would be better for low rpm. Diesels have a fairly narrow operating rpm range. Big rigs can be just a few hundred.
It's possible you might have to tow in third. Lugging it can be worse than to many rpms. I'd keep it 1600 +, 1800 would be better for low rpm. Diesels have a fairly narrow operating rpm range. Big rigs can be just a few hundred.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Is that transmission a 4L80E ?
Or is it the old manual cable R4 four speed auto ?
If the latter then do not pull in overdrive with that transmission.
Or is it the old manual cable R4 four speed auto ?
If the latter then do not pull in overdrive with that transmission.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Its a GearStar built Stage III 4L60E sir, not a 700r4, has a Shift Kit 4 on it, and an external cooler aswell (Hayden transmission cooler)
And yes sir
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Damn, it has to be something like this, if its even possible
6x12 Cargo Trailer Rental | U-Haul https://share.google/nTJ1rrIVEFlMXtEnb
6x12 Cargo Trailer Rental | U-Haul https://share.google/nTJ1rrIVEFlMXtEnb