• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

93 6.5l turbo diesel no power

D

dieselthirsty

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
7
93 chev 3500 dulley lost power whats a bolt on compatible borg warner gm3 for a financially imbarased human with a truck sitting in the sketchy side of town don't care the type of turbo just need bolt on no hassle perhaps stock or better part numbers to look up prices and shipping time before I find my truck on blocks and don't know which kid with baggy pants to string up
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
I'd call a wrecker and get it moved first...
Click to expand...
What He said/\_/\_/\
Then think about what caused Your turbo to fail.
Have You checked the vacuum pump ?
Get a fuel pump pressure/vacuum tester, or, just a vacuum gauge and check the vacuum at the tube/hose that connects to the waste gate control solenoid, attached to the left, back portion above the valve cover.
If You have no vacuum there, or a small amount of vacuum, say about 15” of vacuum, then replace the vacuum pump.
Report back Your findings.
 
To be honest, I am curious as to what went down on your turbo, I have not seen a GMx turbo fail yet on a 6.5. Ive seen HX35/40's blow oil seals and whatnot.

these engines will run without the turbo connected to the intake, it just won't have much power and you;ll see black smoke out the tail pipe. as long as the oil seals hasn't blown out where it's spewing oil, if it won't spool due to it being locked up, pull the plenum off the intake and remove the short rubber hose between the plenum and the turbo. put the plenum back on and drive it home. just remember not to get on it too hard, accelerate slowly and you will eventually get up to speed to drive home.

the most common things that go wrong is the vacuum pump or a vacuum hose going to the actuator on the turbo.

if the oil hose has blown going to the turbo, you can trace it back to where it blew, pull it and plug the port or in a pinch, get a vice grip on the hose to stop the leak. then pull the air filter tube and jam a screwdriver or something in the intake turbine to prevent it from spinning. just be careful not to damage the turbine wheel. you can do this in a pinch for a short trip. stopping the turbo from spinning when the oil line is blown is just to keep you from damaging the turbo running without oil in the bearings.

let us know what happened and what you find, we all can help you fix it.
 
Thank you for the next step procedures I will let you know what I find and I'm still going to need a turbo there's a few on market place but I have no idea what fits for easy install
One guy has this (Got a s467 for trade
It’s a bd 467 with a t4 0.9 ar exhaust housing
Orange powder coat on the compressor housing
Brand new kcmods 360° rebuild kit in it cause it was burning oil, but I found out it was clocked to far and oil was pooling in it, )
And this one (Got a hold of a bulk set of turbos

Hx 35
Hx 40
Hx 30
Hx 55
S300
S400
S500
GT 25
GT 26)

And or (Have a garret A/R 60 m24
First Gen cummins H1C
40$ for the garret 100$ for the others)

Does any one know what fits iv been reading for 3 days and just got more info confused on the truck and started thinking maybe the wife's 02 2.0 zeetech focus needs one cause I drive it a lot and wNt to drive through mountain roads here in British Columbia faster then I can naturally aspirated got a big dick drive fast still to fat to fly piss me off one more time woman and your walking to work for a week while you're car is (broken ) any way whY do I do champagne taste drinking baby duck
 
dbrannon79 said:
To be honest, I am curious as to what went down on your turbo, I have not seen a GMx turbo fail yet on a 6.5. Ive seen HX35/40's blow oil seals and whatnot.

these engines will run without the turbo connected to the intake, it just won't have much power and you;ll see black smoke out the tail pipe. as long as the oil seals hasn't blown out where it's spewing oil, if it won't spool due to it being locked up, pull the plenum off the intake and remove the short rubber hose between the plenum and the turbo. put the plenum back on and drive it home. just remember not to get on it too hard, accelerate slowly and you will eventually get up to speed to drive home.

the most common things that go wrong is the vacuum pump or a vacuum hose going to the actuator on the turbo.

if the oil hose has blown going to the turbo, you can trace it back to where it blew, pull it and plug the port or in a pinch, get a vice grip on the hose to stop the leak. then pull the air filter tube and jam a screwdriver or something in the intake turbine to prevent it from spinning. just be careful not to damage the turbine wheel. you can do this in a pinch for a short trip. stopping the turbo from spinning when the oil line is blown is just to keep you from damaging the turbo running without oil in the bearings.

let us know what happened and what you find, we all can help you fix it.
Click to expand...
The 2 lines thar were dry are now wet and my fat ass had to reverse down the hill park at my buddy's and walk up to my house cause it would not climb ill get some info maybe some pics and look forward to learning something from yall
 
Yes photos will help!

keep in mind with upgrading the turbo, these engines do not like more than 12 psi boost pressure from factory stock and these engines are not power-houses like a Cummins. you will have to pull and install head studs. over boosting will lift the heads and cause all kinds of issues without all the necessary upgrades. The consensus for the best upgrade is a HX35/40W hybrid for towing and hauling. depending on your use for the truck will depend on what the best upgrade turbo will be. We all can help you along the way and keep you engine happy.

it's best to start off with some simple diagnostics and make any needed repairs before firing off the parts cannon and spending money. The last thing you want to do is replace parts that can possibly introduce more unwanted problems. Lets get everything diagnosed and fixed first.

start off with checking your air filter and tubing making sure it's clean and free of leaves and things that can clog your filter. With the engine OFF, try spinning the turbo impeller by hand making sure it spins freely. DO NOT place your hands near the turbo impeller with the engine running!

With the air filter off and tubing removed from the turbo, start the engine and let it idle. LOOK at the impeller and verify it's spinning. Shut off the engine and re-install your air filter and tubing.

Next, getting a boost pressure gauge installed will help here. there are a couple of ways to do this, there are adapters that takes one of the plenum bolts and allows you to thread a fitting for the gauge, the other way is to pull the intake plenum off and drill a small hole, tap 1/8" pipe thread in the hole and connect a fitting for the gauge (DON'T do this with the plenum on the engine risking metal shaving getting into the intake)

Next, find your wastegate solenoid located on top of the drivers side valve cover and trace the plastic vacuum lines to the turbo and vacuum pump making sure they are not cracked and leaking. if your engine has an EGR valve there will be two solenoids on the valve cover, Non EGR engines only have the one solenoid. the factory plastic tubing that GM used gets very brittle over time and is guaranteed to crack and break. most just replace them with rubber vacuum hose.

Check your vacuum pump operation. the vacuum pump is located on the passenger side under the AC compressor and should have a 5/16" or 3/8" hose coming off the back running up near the intake with a adapter to a smaller line going to the solenoid. find the adapter and disconnect it, use a vacuum gauge to check it it's pulling enough. you can also do a hillbilly test with it all connected, start the engine and let it idle. grab ahold of the turbo vacuum actuator rod and try to move it by hand. you should not be able to move the rod by hand with the engine idling.

report back your findings here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top